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nsaqam Offline OP
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Boy am I anxious to get these rings and mounts.

If everything is as good as all you folks say these Conetrols will be replacing a very nice set of Talley LW lows.

I'm planning on selling the Talleys here on the 'Fire if all is well.


The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Conetrols are great rings, almost as good as S/Khttps://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/images/icons/default/grin.gif

Last edited by phoenixdawg; 06/08/10.

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I have a set that held a Weaver K3 on my Browning BLR. Very light and strong system. Gloss custom mounts and matte huntur med. rings. They're an engineering marvel to study when your bored at your deer/bear stand.

I replaced the scope with a Vortex Diamondback and now use Dednutz mounts and rings. I think the scope, rings and mounts are sitting in a cigar box some where....

Dan

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I don't have any at the moment, but they are my favorite.

They simply look the best and they do their job of holding the scope where it should be.


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I think Conetrol is the last place on earth that still makes a set of mounts high enough to clear the stock bolt handle on a BRNO 21H. For that reason alone they're hero's in my book.

The only set I own are from the Daptar line which isn't the same as the standard line. The rings don't look nearly as nice but like I said before, THEY FIT. smile

There are some things I really do not like about this mounting system though. It requires a special allen wrench to tighten the bases to the action and then it takes two other size allen wrenches to tighten the rings to the bases and for the ring tops. So it takes 3 different allen wrenches and if you loose the special one I'm not sure where you would get a replacement if Conetrol was no longer around.

Don't want to complain to much though, it's a nice if not overly complicated product.

Terry

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You could drive a truck under that scope! <grin>

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I have been PMing back and forth with nsagam tonight about the set of Conetrol mounts I just got second hand. We were trying to figure out what my problem (just the base/rings, not personal) is with these. The front ring is too close to the guts and I don't think revering the base will help it, but haven't tried.

I guess I'll have to check with George and see what the deal is. I think these have the extended front base and won't work so well with the short action? Shown with a gloss finish 2x7 Leupold on a CDL LH 243.

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Yea, but you gotta look close to see daylight under the bolt handle with the action cycled. It's old school but it works great and I enjoy using the rifle.

Terry



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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
They are very well made and quite strong. Another nice thing is that both front and rear rings are adjustable for windage.

They also look damn good. The only big problem is they are somewhat of a PITA to put together, but not too bad if you've done it once or twice.

Many people make the mistake of over-tightening the screws in the bases that hold the rings on. This can REALLY leave ring-marks, and even crush a scope's tube.


+1

I've used a lot of Conetrol mounts & they are some of the nicest & strongest around.

As JB says, they can be a bit if a PITA to get the scope squared up in the rings.

Here's a couple of hints/tricks I've learned:

1. Do not mix ring halves & caps, they are a matched unit & will not fit correctly if mixed. Note: on the top of the rings there will be an index notch & also a notch on the underside of the cap......these need to be aligned when the cap is put on

2. After getting the bases mounted, use half of each ring on the scope to get approximate mounting position on the bases

3. When you get the scope approximately in the correct fore/aft position, put the other half of each ring on & position the upper split together, place the cap on, and then pinch the bottom studs together.....this will begin to tighten the cap on the rings (this is done with the scope & rings off the bases, in your hand)

4. Pinch the bottom studs together enough to get them into the bases; do not tighten bases screws yet

5. Carefully (the rings are not tightened into the bases yet) mount the gun & check for reticle alignment & eye relief

6. If you need to adjust eye relief or scope alignment, then add a small piece of masking tape as a reference point on the scope tube in front or back of each ring, depending on which way you need to move the rings; take a lead pencil & mark each ring cap & the scope tube at the mark on the cap as reference if you need to re-align the scope reticle

7. To (re)move the rings, insert a screwdriver in the slot in ring bottom stud & twist to loosen the ring & pop the cap loose

8. Using the tape & pencil marks, adjust scope position as needed; check again, & repeat as necessary

9. After eye relief & scope alignment are OK, tighten base screws, alternating turns on each side & note that overhang of the base on each side of the ring is even.

MM

Last edited by MontanaMan; 06/08/10. Reason: Added note on alignment mark on cap & rings
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Originally Posted by TC1
Yea, but you gotta look close to see daylight under the bolt handle with the action cycled. It's old school but it works great and I enjoy using the rifle.

Terry


AND it's a cool gun!!

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nsaqam Offline OP
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MM, thanks for those tips, they'll be utilized!


The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Good luck with them............note the edit on cap/ring alignment mark. Forget to put it in originally.

MM

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anyone want to trade a 2 pc set for a 1 pc remington l/a ?
got the set up on a trade rifle, and really don't care to the 1 piece base.

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