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RickyD Offline OP
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Lately my ordinarily very accurate ML10 has been shooting not so good. Figured it was time to clean. After starting the cleaning routine I found the rear trigger guard screw was stripped. Guess it's time to fix. frown

Years ago I remember different sites giving how-to's on setting up the ML10 so the bolt can be removed without loosening that rear screw. Thought this might be a good time to check that out further but it seems to have disappeared off the internet. Anyone know the reason?

And more to the point, anyone know or want to offer an opinion on the best fix for my screwed up problem? Thanks. smile


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are you a smokless shooter ? if so check your dia. on the hole in front of the primer. once the hole erodes too far accuracy disappeares. there are a couple ways to fix the rear screw problem.. some put in an extra screw and also could make a short screw and install a different bolt stop.

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First, I know nothing about a ML10. I do know about stripped screws though.

Two ways to fix a stripped out screw hole.

1. Heli-coil it. It works as good as the original, provided, it's done right. If you've never done it take it to a gunsmith or machine shop that knows what they're doing. Since it stripped as originally done I'd be inclined to deepen the hole as much as could be done safely and use a flat bottoming drill bit to get as many threads as possible.

2. Drill and tap it for the next larger size screw. This wouldn't be preferable since, I assume, it's going through the trigger guard. You'd the then have to open up the trigger guard for a larger diameter screw head. However, you might be able to find a screw with a small diameter head or turn the head down to fit. Or, maybe use something like an allen head screw. ? ? ?

There's expoxy methods of screw repair but it won't hold torque as the above methods will.

Since I don't even know what it looks like don't yell at me if I'm wrong.

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You can eliminate removing the rear screw by ordering the New version Breech plug from Savage. It has a 3/8 hex head on the front of it that can be removed with a 1/4 in drive ratchet and 3/8 in sockiet.

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RickyD Offline OP
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Originally Posted by samson805
You can eliminate removing the rear screw by ordering the New version Breech plug from Savage. It has a 3/8 hex head on the front of it that can be removed with a 1/4 in drive ratchet and 3/8 in sockiet.
Thanks. That's something to think about but I have to fix my rear screw situation first.


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Immersing oneself in progressive lieberalism is no different than bathing in the sewage of Hell.
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RickyD Offline OP
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Originally Posted by fish head
First, I know nothing about a ML10. I do know about stripped screws though.

Two ways to fix a stripped out screw hole.

1. Heli-coil it. It works as good as the original, provided, it's done right. If you've never done it take it to a gunsmith or machine shop that knows what they're doing. Since it stripped as originally done I'd be inclined to deepen the hole as much as could be done safely and use a flat bottoming drill bit to get as many threads as possible.

2. Drill and tap it for the next larger size screw. This wouldn't be preferable since, I assume, it's going through the trigger guard. You'd the then have to open up the trigger guard for a larger diameter screw head. However, you might be able to find a screw with a small diameter head or turn the head down to fit. Or, maybe use something like an allen head screw. ? ? ?

There's expoxy methods of screw repair but it won't hold torque as the above methods will.

Since I don't even know what it looks like don't yell at me if I'm wrong.
No yelling, but I do thank you for the info offering.

The rear screw just goes into the wood, not the rear metal of the action, thus not a real action screw. Kind of a different deal.


We may know the time Ben Carson lied, but does anyone know the time Hillary Clinton told the truth?

Immersing oneself in progressive lieberalism is no different than bathing in the sewage of Hell.
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In that case epoxy will be your best friend. Coat the screw and trigger guard with a release agent, fill the hole with epoxy, carefully, and you're good to go.


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