Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Long Range Hunting Question: to picky?

Let's just say that the method(s) displayed in the video differ SIGNIFICANTLY from mine !!

i'm running the dog chit out of this one just so i can re-barrel in 7.... it just shoots so good that i don't want to tear it apart just yet...

Yeah, but his works pretty well.

About all the more anal I'm willing to get about break-in, is to clean a bore of all the great green gobs of greasy grimy gopher guts that they ship new with. Then I'll shoot a few, and repeat, and shoot a few and repeat.

From that point on, it's game on, and I figure it's like a Jeep... it needs to be able to run dirty and hard, and if it can't, then I need to find that out and fix it accordingly... so I just shoot them and clean only very rarely.

I had a tuning fork custom built to produce the note K-sharp, that I use to check barrel harmonics, though you do have to have an ear for disharmony... Way better than pitching it on the rocks.

Im a little sensitive to recoil at a bench.On a hard kicker I I screw up the third shot.What you describe is me shooting a 300.

Didn't notice this mentioned, but are you starting from a clean barrel? Are the first two shots, which are touching, consistently in the same spot? If so, and depending on your intended use, you might be better off not touching it.

Fouled tubes,outperform sterling ones..............

maybe ,,,thats why im asking dead kenny...

i dont clean em after i shoot a fouling shot..during hunting season..i think i need to get a page of targets clean it..go different days fire one shot at each target and see whats the scoop...i am looking for handloading equiptment online as well as per Sticks admonishment..is the lee handloader a good place to start ?? or is there a better ''kit'' ?or what do i need?

Lee is a great place to stop,well before you even get there...I'd not weight decoys with their schitt,save perhaps their Universal Decapper.

Stay green................

With all due respect to Sticks advise, before you start hand loading, get that dodgy contact point between the barrel and the stock sorted, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail with your hand loads..

If you have a "free floating" barrel, it should be just that with a reasonably generous gap; read Sticks other replies in this thread and he will say the same thing.....

Also, I forgot to mention previously, but when the bolt is down/closed, it should not contact the stock at all..

As you close it, you will hear it hitting the metal work of the action which is ok, but like the barrel, there must be clearance between it and the stock..

To test, fold a bit of paper so its two or three folds thick, a few inches long and say 1/4" wide...you should be able to work that under the bolt handle while pressing the bolt handle down...

With regards reloading kit, many are fans of Lee, but with one or two exceptions, I am not...Whatever press you buy avoid the pot metal/alloy ones and go for cast iron/steel.

Don't be afraid to buy a cast iron "O" frame press like the RockChucker secondhand, as they usually last well.

Apparently the new RockChuckers are made in China, so I'd have reservations about buying one of those until the quality is a known, and would prefer an older Made in America version.

And don't be afraid to mix and match kit...you can happily buy say Redding dies and run them in a Lyman or RCBS press..

But first sort those gremlins in the stock...

Regards,

Peter

green being rcbs?..will you message me a list to get me started?
press/hand press? ect..?

put a piece of paper under the bolt handle..when fully closed the paper will not pull free..one sheet thicknes..folded 2 times the bolt wont close..(right under the cut out for the bolt knob on the stock)
what doe that mean? im lucky not to have a face full of bolt?

and looking at it upside down it clacks right on the stock..how did you know Pete?

what does the bolt hitting the stock do as an accuracy symptom?

Don't worry, its not a safety issue, its just that for good accuracy the bolt should'nt touch the stock...its a common problem on many factory rifles and like the barrel touching the stock, its easily cured by a bit of DIY...If you get a *non* permanent (water soluable) felt/marker pen, you can colour ink onto the bottom of the bolt handle and then close it while its still wet, and it should leave a contact/witness mark on the stock where its binding.Some sanding with wet and dry or a little careful work with a dremel tool and you should be able to remove enough stock material in a few minutes work..

The trick is to work slowly and not remove too much before reapplying more pen to the bolt handle and trying it again...Keep repeating until the contact goes and then some..A touch of paint to cover up and the job is done...

Like i said, it fairly common on many factory rifles, and is one of the things to check...I wouldn't like to predict what it will cause, as rifles are very individual, but for good accuracy it shouldn't touch...

As far as accuracy goes, a lot of these things are incremental in nature and its attention to detail that results in good accuracy.