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bubble gum...

You would need to use the proper size end mill in a knee mill.

A drill bits nose cuts at a taper and does not leave a flat bottom in the hole which would remove more material then what was necessary.

For some reason - most people on this forum has some aversion to going to a gunsmith and paying to have something done professionally and so they are willing to cut, hack, and butcher to get the results they wish to acquire.

I would think that a good gunsmith with the right tools could probably do the entire job for you in about a hour for about $40 - $50, time and materials and the job would look professional when he was done and not like that picture that you made for your mom when you was in the 3rd grade - with colored elbow mac and some Elmer's School Glue.

D-beer, have you never heard of a Forstner bit?

Flat bottom, clean edge, and would work great with the stock on the drill press table.

You may wish to check it out because I could have that recess cut perfectly in less than 10 minutes.

...... for the total bubba package. See thru mounts will complete the ensemble.

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...plus don't forget to scratch a social security number on the action with an "engraving" tool, for I.D. purposes.

Taking an idea from a Marlin M60??? It's your gun so do what you want to it but IMHO it's just plain wrong to take a nice gun and bubba it so bad. You would not only ruin the value but make it look like a pimp's gun. If you want to still do it try using a 1" dry wall screw through the middle of it!

Boy tough crowd.

It's a standard Marlin Guide Gun. In ten years time it likely won't be worth much after I've taken it hunting a bunch.

You'd think that this was the communist china of guns around here.

Tom

I dont think you'll have a big problem. I've inletted similar round wafer type stuff into wood with good results.

Measure the diameter of the coin and see if a Forstner bit is available. If not, pick your spot and scribe a line around the coin with a vary sharp point right next to the edge. Sometimes when I want a really close scrib line I borrow one of the wifes sewing needles. That makes a great scrib line and you can get really close. The slowly carve out the center with some small carving chisels. Any two part epoxy should be just fine. Be sure to degrease the back side of the coin so it'll stick good.

Go for it.

So you think a GS is some sort of magician that can do unearthly things to guns. some of my worst gun repairs were from pro GS with a lifetime of experiance.Military armorer/school/trained, owns GS shop/ 87 years old. had him replace a M1 barrel. it was so bad I took it to another GS to re do. he is not the only one I have used over my 70 years that was a total screw up.. so I do as much as I can myself. I am retired machinest and machine repairman and can make any part as good as any manfacturer,NO I will not make any parts for anyone so don't ask.

1 month experience repeated every month for 50 years does not make a gunsmith with 50 years experience.

It's a msall prcentage of gunsmiths that I'll trust with one of my guns.

Forstner bits in "in between sizes" are a little harder to find at local stores. If you need 5/16,7/16,9/16 you may have to order on internet. I learned that the cheaper import bits may tear out the edge of the hole when they start in. Might be best to go with a more expensive brand. Is there an absolutely flat spot on the stock for the coin, if not you will have issues with the center being to deep or the edges sticking up.

If you need an oddball size outside circle you can cut it with a circle cutter to any diameter you want and then inlet the middle by hand, if you need a few more thousands cut just adjust it. Just a thought.

Plus the bits in them are easily sharpenable/replaceable at home to get a really good cut. Turn the cutters in since you want a good outside clean cut and do the hidden part of the circle by hand and I assume use some sort of bedding underneath the coin.

A Eisenhower dollar is 38.1 mm (1.500 inches) in diameter and is 2.58 mm thick.

A Sacajawea Golden Dollar Coin - is 26.5 mm (1.0433 inches) in diameter and is 2.00 mm thick.

A Morgan Silver Dollar - is 38.1 mm (1.500 inches)in diameter an is 2.9 mm thick.

So the problem here is that a person says that they are going to embed a silver dollar into their stock - but they did not say which type of silver dollar they were going to use.

If you make the hole too big, there is going to be a gap between the coin and the stock. If you make the hole too small - it isn't going to fit.

A real machinist owns scribes - they don't have to borrow their wives sewing needles. And has access to a mill, preferably a Bridgeport Explorer - where they can write a simple program - using circular interpolation - where a end mill of one diameter can be used to make a circle of a different diameter to a very precise tolerance.

If you want the hole 38.1 MM - you make it 38.1 MM.
It's not a big deal. You don't bore a 1.500 hole with a 1.500 drill in wood. The hole always ends up coming out a little small or a little large - especially if there is any amount of run out in the head of the drill press.

Wood cutting drill bits are designed for wood working - yes - but when it comes to precision - they are not the cats azz.
A end mill is usually the same diameter from bottom to top, will not flex and can make a precision hole in wood - as far as woodworking goes.
My only concern would be if you plunge cut it - that it might take some of the surrounding wood from around the hole with it.
Maybe a piece of masking tape might help a little - but if it left a rough edge - then it is going to look Bubbafied anyways.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-forstner-bit.htm

A couch hunter AND machinist..

Douchebeer just gets better and better.

And there is the reading comprehension thing... The OP said a gold dollar... that would be 13mm...

Gee whiz. Go to the hardware store, find yourself a Forstner bit, and have a good time.
I would suggest putting down a single layer of masking tape to mark on, and clamping the stock really well. When you start the feed go easy easy easy. The masking tape lowers the risk of shattering out the grain. With good Forstners the risk is pretty low, but it does happen.
If you have a gap, the trick will be getting the level of the epoxy correct. The smart thing would be to go get some of those syringes and a needle at a ranch supply store. Mix your epoxy, pour it in the syringe (not full, a quarter full at most, bleed your air bubble and go after it. You have lots of control that way to make sure you don't blooch over onto either the wood or the coin face. If you "wet" the sides of the hole and the edge of the coin (either the tip of the syringe or a toothpick, that will also help get a clean pour.
Have fun!
You MIGHT even want to cheat by bending the coin, use a brass punch on the back with the front in a nice hunk of leather to protect it.

Everybody's overlooking the fact that there aren't any truly flat spots on a gun stock. The camber of the wood surface will guarantee that if the mortise is correct depth for the top and bottom edges of the coin to be flush, the left and right edge will be way below the surface of the wood. If you can live with that (I couldn't), just use a nice sharp forstner bit and cut the hole, put a dab of epoxy on the reverse side of the coin and stick it it place. A little dab will do ya. Don't put so much in there that it'll squeeze out but if it does, wipe the excess away with alcohol or vinegar so as not to harm the finish.