Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles 338 B.A.R.

Just received a cherry cadillac of a Bar from a forum member here @ the fire.
Its chambered in 338 WM, question is I've never fired or loaded for a Bar, should vels. be kept @ or near factory loaded ammo. Function is flawless.
Initial load development so far has shown 250 Swift a frames @ 2706 fps. for 3 shot av. w/ H-4350.
Should I stop and shoot for groups right there?

Thanks in advance
Gunner

Don't shoot any hot loads like I did. I cracked the "bolt" and had to replace it. Also the forearm bolt pressure is the deciding factor for accuracy, at least with my 1969 308. I went from 4" groups at 100 yds to 1" groups just experimenting with the forearm bolt. Be sure to keep the piston clean. I updated my gas piston to the newer type and it never jams. Great guns and I had my eye on that 338. Browning is very helpful and parts are available for your gun if needed. Happy New Year.

You have a fine rifle in the best caliber I know of for North Americam hunting in an auto. All roll your owns must be be fully resized and trimmed to length to prevent hang ups. A few thousants shorter case length won't hurt the cause.

Thanks Dusty,

I see some manuals go to 2750 fps w/ the 250's but I wont lean on this rifle.
I seen the bolt under the swivel, I take it thats the adjustment for the forearm You were speaking of?
Ill shoot for groups @ 2700 w/ the 250 SAF's, that outta take care of all NA game inside of 300 yds.

Gunner

Thank
You too DOO DAH


Yes full length resizing in all semi auto's w/ a nice crimp on a chamfered and deburred case.

Gunner

Yep, thats it. I got mine to shoot well by shooting a group hand tight, then an 1/8 turn more, etc till the groups tighten up. I ended up about a 1/4 turn tighter than hand tight. At first I thought the pressure from the bipod was changing the harmonics on the barrel and went nuts. When the bolt was loose it would literally shoot 4-5 inch groups.

I really don't advise anyone reloading for semi-auto centerfires like the BAR.. They're designed to work with factory ammo only within specific boundaries.. If you do not do a stellar job of brass prep and keep speeds right at factory specs, you can/will have functioning issues at some point..

Load 'em hot at your peril..

I never arm wrestle with a guy who carries a BAR hunting. Those guys are strong !!!

So that's why I kicked everybody's butt in hunting camp. They got me back in poker tho.

A person I know has one. One of the things he was told is not to use any of the heavy loaded factory rounds in it. So that leads me to believe you shouldn't go over factory loads.

Been shootin the irons today, inch high @ 50 is a little over 2" high @ 100, havent shot @ 200 yet but it should come close to zero @ 200.
Installed the talley bases and QR rings afterwards, the little 2.5-8 leupold will be a perfect match for this rifle, should it become damaged, unscrew it and finish the hunt w/ the irons.
I fired a 2.5" 3 shot group @ 100 w/ the sights, centered nicely above the diamond.
Expect the rifle is gonna like the 250 SAF @2700 fps, function and ejection is still flawless.

Dusty, Ill exp. w/ the forearm nut for final load development, but 2.5" @ 100 w/ a new rifle for me is plenty good, Bet I can come close to cuttin that in half w/ the glass.

Redneck, 100% brass prep no shortcuts, and thanks for the tip, Do You think 2700fps is to warm?

lodgepole, After walkin, shootin, and ridin a horse carrying a 14 lb. 577 nitro this little 338 is a lightweight creampuff, I was really surprised how quick and easy the rifle came to my shoulder. Those old hands in belgium had it down.

Just a Hunter, Thanks for the advice as well, Looks like Ill be keepin the speeds @ or below 2700 fps w/ the 250's

Gunner

I think that's very wise..

Just for the helluvit, obtain 2-3 factory rounds (250 gr.) and run 'em through the chrono. Then use that data to copy your loads re: speed..

Can't go wrong that way, IMHO..

Thanks Redneck, a buds bringin some federal premiun 250 np's by the farm some time this week,
Ill chrono and record results.
Gunner

Will those be brass cases or nickel-plated? If the latter, tell him to bring something else.. Just FYI..

Thanks,
Ill call and ask, I spect the nickel is a little slick and wont grip the chamber wall as good and therefore increase backthrust speed hammering the action?

Just remember to use a powder with a medium burn rate or you will destroy the action or it will not cycle properly.

Redneck,
Buds bringin some A-square ammo he says have brass cases, said they were softs and solids? Never heard of such in 338 WM.

Oldelkhunter,
Yes, Im runnin H-4350 in mine.

Gunner

I had a real problem getting my BAR 338WM to shoot.

I sent it back to Browning and they sent a3 targets with 3 different weights of bullets (factory) all well under 2 inches...

But not me. I ask here and someone suggested I change powders� which I did...

BTW This powder works in my Rifle and may not in yours

From IMR 4831 to IMR 4350..

and kept the speed for a 200g Nosler BT down to about 2800 Ft/sec and things changed�

It will often keep shots within an inch and always well under 2�

BUT the downside is � My youngest son has claimed the rifle.

Brass is good..