Home Forums Reloading Varmint Rifles 220 Swift Brass

What kind of life expectancy are you getting out of your brass? Just got my rifle (700VS) back from Remington for accuracy issues. They wrote ream/polish chamber on work order as well as other repairs. None of the brass I had neck sized before, using Lee collet die will chamber now. Set up F/L die to just bump shoulder back. During this process I split many case necks. Inside lubed with Imperial wax. This Winchester brass is on its fifth firing, second trim. Should I anneal case necks or toss these and start over. Just wondering what has worked well for others. Thanks to all who respond

Wow...that sounds like lots of working the neck!

What's your brass' neck O.D. mike at before and AFTER running thru the die?

I wonder if Remington opened UP your neck even more?!!

That's the WRONG way to go (unless the neck was excessively tight?). You'd rather have to Outside Turn your necks to have them fit than to open up the neck of the chamber.

I guess one question was was your Lee collet die sizing them down to spec?

Personally, I like the idea of using a Bushing style Neck or FL Sizing Dies best. Size them from the outside only ENOUGH to grab the bullet tight.

Those mandrel style dies (your FL Sizing Die) are really tough on brass, squeezing the neck down too much then pulling it back over a mandrel to open it back up!

Need a little more info. How many times have they been sized, Is a fired case tight on the bullet, Are they split to the end of the case. I usualy get 7-9 loadings before the necks get what I call flame cuts after firing. I have never split one on sizing but I've never used a mandrel die. I have tried annealing but i'm not any good at it. Could only use a bushing die every other time (couldn't close the bolt). I always load 50 at a time. When they start flame cutting I toss'em and start with another 50. Single best thing I've found for (my) swift brass is to back down 1 grain.
Mike

Thanks, guys, The brass was F/L'd when new, trimmed to min, collet sized 2x, F/L'd again and collet sized 2x again. Trimmed again as brass was approaching max after full after this. I'm suprised they hadnt stretched sooner. Fired cases are not tight on bullet. Cracks form 1/2 way between neck / shoulder and case mouth, do not extend to case mouth. fired neck diameter is .260", collet sized measure .255" Hope this helps. If you need more info, just ask! Thanks again.

Farmall, I use a Lee FL die backed off a bit to just neck size. I don't even bump the shoulders unless bolt closure gets draggy (technical term). My load is mild, so cases don't seem to stretch much at all.
I would try neck sizing, either with a FL sizer or a bushing die. I used to use a Lee collet die on my .243s with great success, until brass gets hardened from several firings. Neck tension faded and bullets were not gripped tight enough.
I now FL size or neck size with a FL sizer on my .243 loads and all seems well.
Not sure what to tell you....

I think these cracks are caused from the swift's tapered neck and all the dies I have used size the neck straight. This works the back of the neck more than the front (my opinion). If you can neck size a couple times without getting a tight bolt try neck sizing half the neck. I had some luck with that but I always loaded so hot it was every other time. Those cracks were probably there after firing. Hold them up to the light and turn. You can toss'em then.
Mike

Thanks, guys. Always used Hornady F/L die, barely touches shell holder, to just bump shoulder back. I have considered turning the bottom of the die off by about 1/32 to give me a little more ability to "fine tune" die adjustment. Does the Lee F/L die have much clearance with shell holder? Kecatt, I dont push the Swift too hard either, about 35-3600 with 50-55gn bullets. Ever tried SPSX's in your Swift? Been thinking about it, but Hdy says 3400 is max. I know others that have gotten away with more velocity than that in 22-250.

I have tried the plain 55 SPs in my Swifts with good results, but never the SXSPs. I am looking hard at the 50 V-max with RL-15 just to see what transpires.
I use a nickel or a penny between the shell holder and die, then lock with the die nut. Seems to work ok.
Lee dies are designed to size when the shellholder contacts the bottom of the die. to reduce shoulder movement one has to only scew the die incrementally away from the shell holder to fine tune shoulder set back.
Hope this helps.