Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Year? Model? Savage99

Awhile back I purchased a 99, serial #7085**, in .300 Savage. Its a clean shooter which is exactly why I bought it. Not mint, but far from being a wreck. Its receiver is drilled and tapped and it does have sling swivals studs.

My questions are these: does anyone here have an idea what year it was made, and could the drill/tap and sling swivals studs be factory on a 99 with the serial number 7085**?

I've tried www.savage99.com but all I could find was information on pre 500,000 series 99's. Anywhere else to look for the information I seek?

I'll take a stab that it's either an R, an EG, or an F.
Got pics?

Not an F with that serial number.

With a rounded forearm rather than a schnabel, it will be a postwar 99R and the d&t and swivels are factory.

If it has a schnabel, it's an EG. If you can see the Savage 99 stamp on the receiver is to the side rather than on top where the d&t holes go through it, the d&t is factory. Sling studs were never factory on EG's.

Here's a postwar 99R, not pristine but very shootable. Notice the distinctive wide forearm with the sides that slant back to the receiver?




Yours was probably made in 1953 - possibly 1954, the serial number and date stamps for that serial number range are a bit goofy. Might look on the front of the lever by the serial number and see if you can't see a stamp with 1 or 2 number followed by a letter. E would be 1953, F would be 1954. The same stamp is probably on the side of the receiver under the buttstock if you ever remove it.

My Gawd' y'all are fast! Calhoun, I think you've ID'd it for me sir. It looks exactly as the one you have pictured, minus the scope. It has the wide forearm and the Savage stamp is on the left side of the receiver and not on the top. That's what got me curious to see if it might be factory d/t. Other 99's Ive seen have had the Savage logo drilled through and I was fairly sure they didn't do that at the factory. I can see no letters in the serial number in front of the lever on the bottom of the receiver. I'm inclined to leave the buttstock on at this time, but if I ever remove it I'll look for the serial number to be where you describe it.

docost99, I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow when I get a bit more time.

Calhoun, if you might indulge me with a bit more with your knowledge, what does the R stand for in 99R?

Stands for Really accurate.

And REALLY heavy

It's just a letter. The first version of the 99R was introduced in the mid-30's when there were a lot of different models and looked a lot like the 1950's 99F, except nicer. The post-WWII version got a wide forearm and simplified checkering and was always d&t for scope and had sling eyes underneath. The d&t and sling studs made me think it would be a 99R.

Bought an R-250 last week, according to Murry's book, it was mfg in 1933. Has three point checkering on the stock and forearm. Was the three point standard then or a special order item. Anyone compiling information on the R's? GW

Drew has pulled together quite a bit of info on the 1930's version of the R's. The 3 point checkering was standard for a while after it was introduced and then was replaced by the 2 point. Not special ordered, but not as common as the 2 point either. Nice grab!

warmutt, look at the lever boss ( where the lever attaches to the receiver). With a rifle in your serial number range there is most often a stamping containing numbers and letters inside an oval. This will be stamped on the muzzle end of the receiver lever boss. The number indicates the inspector and the letter will indicate the year of manufacture. Post that letter and you will narrow down the year. Sorry, I have no pics to guide you. may be someone else can provide a visual aid.

Example:

Looking at the lever boss, as you sugested ring 3, I can make out an E, which is would be the last symbol. The stamps looks as if it may have been struck with a glancing blow and the number, or letter in front of the E is not clearly defined. It looks as if it may be either a 5, 8 or S, again not real clear.

I'm going to try to post some pictures of it. I'm not very handy with posting photo's, but I'll try. A mighty big thanks to all who responded and are helping me with ID'n this rifle. Again its no safe queen, but its a clean gun for being something like 57 years old.

An E would be 1953, don't need to know the numbers. The numbers is a particular inspector, the letter indicates the year. There's some serial number ranges which are weird and seem to span years oddly, but the letter code is a darned good indicator.

Lets see if I can get thse to upload. Have to bear with me I'm a poor picture poster.

Okay, so those uploaded I'll try some others. If anyone here is computer savy, and feels generous, If you can get these pic's to show up without having to open the link I'd appreciate it.

Guys y'all have been a wonderful resource for information on my rifle. When I first received it, it needed some minor tinkering to get it to load properly and several of you assisted me in correcting that issue. Now in less than a 24hr period y'all have helped me identify the year it was made, and the model. Can't thank y'all enough.

This gun has been will continue to be shot, and she will go hunting with me this Fall. I intend to either mount a vintage Weaver K3, or a Lyman peep on her. With luck of the draw I may use it for bear hunting in N MN. At the very least, it will be used on deer this November in N MN...so long as its not too nasty out.

Here ya go. Nice looking R, about the only thing I'd do would be to take some 0000 steel wool and some gun oil and shine the bolt up.

Calhoun, I owe you Sir! I took your advice and cleaned up the bolt on my Savage 99R, circa 1953, .300 Savage. I think it turned out rather well. Take a look at the photo's and see if you agree.

Much nicer! Those bolts attract stuff and usually clean up really well.