Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Lube!

check out this article on corrosion;

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

i've been using eezox since 1991, but i use it primarily as a rust preventative, as i don't believe that the "dry lube" concept is the best deal on fast gunning semi autos...and depending upon the type of firearm/use, i use other lubricants. might not hurt to try it on your press--though i've not done so myself.

of all the lubricants i've used, as a rust preventative--in my judgement--it has no peer, and it gives the firearm a really nice, almost "velvety luster", as it penetrates into the metal and prevents oxygen from getting into that very metal to begin its diabolical deed...i can assure you that finely blued guns, such as the belgian guns so masterfully blued, look so much better after eezox goes into the metal (or any blued gun, for that matter).

i talked to paul (at warren), and i told him that it smells different than it used to, and he told me the EPA was the reason why they changed from the older solvent (trichloroethane, i believe), to the present chemical solvent (TCE, or trichloroethylene), which is pretty nasty. you've got to take precautions with ventilation, and gloves--look for gloves that prevent it from leeching into and through the gloves, causing a transdermal absorbtion--the stuff can really make you sick if you don't take precautions, but after the solvent evaporates, it smells pretty fair. paul also told me that homeland security is buying up quite a lot of it--i would assume for rust prevention, though its possible they might be using it primarily as a lubricant.

if treating your rifle, you should remove it from the stock and treat all surfaces. this is a must if you have a wood stock with a varathane finish--you must remove it from the stock. don't re-apply it after that, unless you once again remove it from the stock--never get eezox on the varathane "skin-type" of stock finishes, as it will damage the finish (as well as some of the painted finish stocks, and some rubber grips, etc).

the old saying goes, "rust never sleeps", but eezox puts it to bed...

i have been using motor oil, i figure it is developed to take heat and holds up in an engine so why not in an AR?

That Eesox stuff sounds like some toxic crap. I'm all for a slick running rifle but if a "lube" requires protective gloves to apply I can do without it. A slick bolt isn't worth a brain tumor, pickled liver or nonfunctional wiener!

Apparently my can is the older formula and it has a very pleasant smell. I bought a couple backup cans last year that I just gave the sniff test and they smell the same. I'm a little light headed now and bumped into the wall a couple times but.....


Seriously, as a protectant I think the stuff is good enough to warrant gloving up to wipe down your guns. Do several in one session and be done with it. For a lube I still MUCH prefer a wet lube or good grease like TW25B.

Just a couple reasons I stick with gun lube are:

motor oil is engineered to perform at a lower temp than a firearm can reach (250-300 deg. vs. easily over 300)

The AR is operating at a much higher PSI than and engine experiences. Can motor oil remain in place under higher pressures?

I'm not saying it's scientific, but it's not like I'm using a pint a month on a gun. A few ounces lasts for a long time as lubricant- that's why I hate the CLP spray bottles- too much waste.

well i've never smelled it buring and i found using strait 30 weight not 10w30 it does stay in place as good as anything i have found, on my buffer spring however i lubed the hell out of it with lithium grease and seem to keep the buffer very quiet

I think the test from the above link shows why it's not a good idea.....

As to the toxicity, I've never had an issue with Eezox damaging wood/plastic/rubber. FWIW, I've never used gloved and no issues with tumors, livers or limp wieners either!

It does clean as well as protect so I wouldn't apply it to anything painted though.....

Militec and Schaeffer Roller chain lube. Why, why not?
http://www.schaefferoil.com/roller-chain-lube.html

eezox won't damage plastics. it wont damage the wood itself, but can cause damage to "skin finishes" on wood. rubber grips are ok if you wipe it off of them as soon as possible.

curiously, their website says it won't damage original factory wood finishes--yet when i asked paul (at warren) about this, he said that the TCE is what does the damage, and it will damage some stock finishes, rubber grips, and painted finishes.

i always take all precautions, so that nothing is damaged.

if doing just one gun--either a rifle or a handgun--it doesn't bother me too badly, but if doing several, i feel pretty sick when finished--but i believe some of us are more sensitive to certain chemicals than others...in my own case, i used contact cement daily in my job for over 10 years, and my tolerance for harsh chemicals is very low, due to this sustained exposure.

Here's one idea. This guy uses wheel bearing grease. Not for me though, I use CLP and it works just fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g

I don't use anything but TX-7. It's an oil additive. About $30 a qt but will last forever.

Just put a little on, wipe off. Makes an AR run like a sewing machine.

Yuck, I'd rather have it run like an AR.

Eezox is the best thing I have found for our winter temps. Once it dries there is nothing to gunk up in the cold.

Mobil 1 10w-30

I use Slide Glide and/or Gun Butter for the high friction points, and rem lube or clp for the rest. Those (Rem lube / CLP) do burn off, so I'll check out the FT 10 (sp?).

I may put a grease on the buffer spring as well. I like that idea..