Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Who uses WipeOut Bore cleaner?

I use Pro Series from Gunk. My shooting buddy said he did not have good luck with Brake Cleaner,(he used a different brand) but my results have been great. I use a little tube in the aerosol can and spray it into the barrel, covering the muzzle end with a rag. I let it set a few minutes and then brush the heck out of it. I then run a couple of patches thru the barrel. The first will just come out black and the next is pretty clean. If I repeat the process, I cannot get any more black patches, in fact they look clean but wet.

I am very confident that I am getting it cleaned out, as my accuracy just comes right back. There may be a difference in brands, but I know this really works for me. One point, I do not use it sparingly.

Keep in mind, I am shooting 204 and 224 calibers mainly and they tend to carbon pretty bad. Even with Benchmark, which is considered a clean powder still leaves a lot of carbon.

Jim in Idaho

I think your method of leaving the carbon remover in overnight with the barrel plugged, lets the liquid work on the carbon. I suspicion, that applying any carbon cleaner with a patch just does not get the carbon saturated. In order for it to be removed easily, it needs to be loosened and/or dissolved.

Here is a good one for you. My shooting partner was shooting his 22-250 and had a cartridge that did not want to chamber. He tried another and the same results. Come to find out, he had a sliver of carbon come loose and lodge in the chamber. He found it when cleaning the gun.

If you want to get serious with carbon, spray a commercial oven cleaner out of a pump spray bottle from the chamber end. Do NOT get it on the stock. Let it sit for 5 minutes and the problem is gone. Hit it with a brush and then clean patches. Follow up with other cleaners to remove the oven cleaner. Guaranteed to work.

i now use boretech eliminator. seem to work better on copper than the wipe-out for me. then i use boretech's c4 carbon remover. that seems to work as well as anything including wipe-outs carbon remover, and has a nice smell.

yukon,

I, too, like BoreTech Eliminator and use it as my first line cleaner. I have never tried their C4 carbon remover.

Fred,

Sounds like that would work. Leaving it in may be the secret. The white patch tells nothing. I use a Hawkeye borescope which tells everything. Hopefully the Dyne Tek bore coat will solve some of the problem, especially with copper. Carbon isn't talked about as much, but IMHO, is just as important, maybe more so.

Woodstalker,

Are you concerned about those products damaging the bore, or being corrosive? I don't know that they are, but don't know that they aren't.

Thanks guys for that info. Exactly what I was looking for.

DF

Dirtfarmer

I'm not sure that removing every bit of carbon or copper is necessary. On my guns, I have used the same cleaning method since they were new. I think that a gun that has been neglected or improper cleaning leads to layer after layer of carbon/copper. In those cases, the stuff I use might not work well. YOu can certainly be a better judge of whether something is clean or not with the borescope. Wish I had access to one.

Fred,

The Borescope is great, but I wonder if I'm over reading what it's showing me. Some carbon staining ahead of the chamber isn't the same as carbon build up. I may be wanting the bore to look perfect and that may not be pratical.

The carbon build up I've seen looks like a black top road. Those are the ones that take so much work to take down to bare metal. When I get a new barrel and break it in right, that just doesn't happen.

Using a borescope and just looking at patches is the difference between daylight and dark. Those patches often lie...

DF

DF, I think you are correct about over thinking "clean". I have to assume that all barrels, including the good after market ones,have microscopic tool marks or worst. It may be a bad idea to judge clean with clean enough. After all, I think most of us are more concerned about accuracy than if the barrel is spotless. But to each his own when it comes to standards.

Fred,

Some factory barrels have a bunch of tool marks and shoot surprisingly good. My Krieger, Broughton, Hart, HS Precision, PacNor and such have beautiful machine work with no visible tool marks. And for what they cost, that's about right. And, of course they shoot.

But, you're right. You can't always judge how a barrel shoots by how it look. I've seen some pretty rough looking old Springfield barrels shoot great. Quoting Forest Gump, "Pretty is a pretty does."

DF

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=40914/Product/Sinclair_Specialty_Cleaning_Rod_Guides


These work great with Wipe Out.
Allan

Allan,

Those look good and I've always liked Sinclair products. Brownell's now owns them, FWIW.

IMHO, Lucas Bore Guides are hard to beat. They are made for the specific action and correspond to a rod guide that snaps into the bore guide. The rod guide is specific for the rod being used. All together it's an elegant set up.

DF

tag for info

Did you build a custom rifle for this quest?

WipeOut is great stuff. Hoppe's #9 is the magic elixir.

THIS!

I had one bad experience with Wipe Out in that one of my cans was not pressurized. I called the "home office" and the gentleman that answered was the head dawg and was as nice a guy as you want to meet...very attentive to my problem and took care of the issue pronto. Kudos to that gentleman! In the process he made sure to also provide me with a couple of applicator spouts and they made all the difference in the world. Great product and I no longer let it sit a couple of hours. I schedule things where I let it work all night long and it usually takes care of business the first times except in stubborn cases like my Sakos, which are like copper mines. Great stuff and great people to deal with. A+++++

Yup, thought it was the Schnitz until I relied on it exclusively and built up carbon rings in a couple of my favorite rifles. Accuracy went to crap and removing baked in carbon rings is not an easy task.

Not at all impressed with it personally. But then I'm guilty of using what has always worked fine.

I use Patch Out. I put my rifle in a rifle vise. I let the PO soak over night. Run a clean patch through. First day patch pushes out liquid the color of ink. Repeat several days till clean. Then I push a patch with Hoppes 9 and leave wet. Hasbeen

Pro Shot in the field, Wipe Out in the evening. blue patch says you got the copper.

I follow with GM top engine Cleaner for the carbon, 2- 3 soak and brush applications and the patches come out black.

If you can find the GM stuff you are lucky. they dropped it when throttle bodies came out, but Vette guys and bench shooters love it.

your local parts guy can look in his computer for some.

HM