Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Project - stock finish and caliber choice

I recently picked up a 1987 Browning A-Bolt in 30-06 as a project gun(I have a stainless A-Bolt II in 30-06). I have two questions for the campfire:

1. I will probably replace the stock, eventually. But for now, I would like to strip the finish(glossy finish from A-Bolt Medallion)and maybe refinish with a satin finish. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the old finish off?

2. Looking for recommendations on calibers for re-barrelling.
I currently have a 257 Roberts(Savage Custom), 7-08(Tikka 595), and the Browning A-Bolt II in 30-06. I am leaning heavily toward the 6.5x55(A nostalgic favorite), the 25-06(too close to the 257 Roberts?), and the 270 Winchester. Recoil is a consideration, but not the only factor. Will be used for Whitetail deer here in Missouri, and for general plinking at the range. I am open to other suggestions.

Greatly appreciate any help the members can offer.

Make it satin with a scotch brite pad.

Zip strip, scrape with glass shards, fine sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool. Then a tung or linseed oil finish. Rub in and let dry-- several coats.

I'd go with a 26" .25-06, maybe even AI, if it were me, or a 22" .35 Whelen, the .270 isn't enough different from the .30-06 to make it worth the expense( for me anyway).

you already have a bunch of light and fast calibers, Time to get something with a bit more authority. How bout 338-06 or if you want a real hammer of thor a 9.3x62. recoil is managable near the 30.06 if the rifle fits you.

The 9.3x62 would be the way I would go or .35 Whelen, for some cool factor and both would be a lot of fun!

.35 Whelen or .338-06 would be good choices. I have and like both. The .35 Whelen is in a Rem. 700 Classic and the .338-06 is a rebarrel on a S&W 1500.

The browning high gloss finish can be a bugger to strip Brownels has a product made just for it, very powerful stuff. If i recall right the Browning finish is an epoxy based finish so it will take you some time. That being said once you get it stripped take your time and work up with sand paper as mentioned above. I like Tung oil myself, before you apply it you can add some stain to the wood but i would suggest experimenting on the inside of the barrel channel first. When you get ready to apply the Tung oil the way I do it is I get an old white T shirt and start buffing it in. I start at one end of the stock and keep the cloth( old t shirt) pretty saturated and rub the oil in in circles. As you do this you will see the oil absorbing in to the wood keep rubbing until it sets on top or stops absorbing in. You will see what I am talking about. Once this is done let the stock sit for 12 hours. Looking at the tung oil at this point may not look the greatest. Now get some 0000 steal wool and tung oil and apply the tung oil to the steel wool start rubbing it in as you go. You do not want to keep rubbing it in till it is dry but you will see the finish smooth out move on at this point. When I am in this step I can typically rub down the entire stock in under 10 minutes you are doing more of a rub down then a buffing. You should keep enough tung oil in the steel wool that you see it coat the wood pretty easy as you rub over it but not enough to make the oil run. Once you have rubbed it down let it set for about an hour or so until it feels barely tacky or longer,4 hours is great. Then rub in more oil using the the steel wool and oil. I am not the best at writing things out I know, but if you have any question feel free to send me a pm and I will send you my number. That being said talk is nothing with out something to show for it so here are my last 2 that i did Rem 870 Police magnums.