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Hi there guys, Just want to get the numbers for for tightening the action screws on my hawkeye. Just fitted a new Hogue overmoulded with the full length bedding block but wish to know what inch/lbs to tighten the angled screw and rear screw?? I recall 60 for the rear and 40 for the angled?? Does this sound right? Any other tips? Cheers Gus
Last edited by Gus_K; 09/02/11.
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Correctamungo, I usually don't tighten the rear and middle screws that tight though, especially the middle screw. Just go snug with the middle screw.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Gorilla or farmer tight on the front screw, tight on rear screw and tighten middle screw so it won't fall out. This is the general rule for the Rugers I have owned, however there have been exceptions.
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Gorilla or farmer tight on the front screw, tight on rear screw and tighten middle screw so it won't fall out. This is the general rule for the Rugers I have owned, however there have been exceptions. I agree completely, especially when you have them bedded correctly. To the OP, good luck with that hogue overmolded stock. Chances are you are going to have to skim bed it though to wring out the accuracy in that rifle (we've talked about that before, but just wanted to remind you).
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Hi there guys, Just want to get the numbers for for tightening the action screws on my hawkeye. Just fitted a new Hogue overmoulded with the full length bedding block but wish to know what inch/lbs to tighten the angled screw and rear screw?? I recall 60 for the rear and 40 for the angled?? Does this sound right? Any other tips? Cheers Gus
would apreciate a field report after you shoot it. i'm thinking about picking up one myself. would like to hear before and after results, comfort in shooting and anything else you think about it.
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I just went out to the shop. Dug out the inch lb torque wrench and tried to torque the angled screw to 90lb. With the flat head groove screw head that is not going to happen. I did get to 65 inch lb before the bit would not stay in the screw. Then i backed it off and set it by hand as tight as i could, then tested it with the torque wrench. 45inlb. This is where i'll leave it with the flat head screw. If i had a allen head or torx head screw i might try for more inlb. But unless i want to destroy my flat head screw, trying 95inlb is not something i will try again.
Last edited by baltz526; 09/02/11.
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LOL...I did the same exact thing once. No way I could get it to 95 inch/lbs. Forgot what I did crank it too, no matter I just get it as tight as I can without screwing up the screw head.
I have several Ruger's and they probably all have a different inch/lb setting if I measured it.
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Managed to get the stock on and did 60 (angled acrew) and 40 on the rear. At least the barrel is free floated now . BSA - I will see how it shoots - but I am confident it will shoot as required without any vertical stringing.
Gus
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I went 60 inch pounds on the front, and 35 on the rear.
Make sure that the magazine box floats or it will push up on the center of the action.
Remove completely the center screw or only tighten it with your fingernail.
All the stocks will benefit from bedding the recoil lug. if only one corner is touching the recoil lug or the action is not sitting down on the bedding block, you are screwed on accuracy.
I just got finished tweeking one out.
Also, check the hole that the angled screw goes through, I have had to open up the last two that I worked on.
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This is what Keith is talking about. ![[Linked Image]](http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jackpine44/ruger77stockadj001.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jackpine44/ruger77stockadj002.jpg)
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Standard non-bedded stocks and with standard chamberings, I tend to start with 35-in/lb front, 25-in/lb rear, and 15-in/lb middle. Usually somewhere in that range +/- is about as high as you can go before binding the mag box. This is ample torque for a non-bedded standard chambering or even a properly bedded big magnum chambering. But on a non-bedded factory inletted stock in the big magnums, you may run into issues if you do not follow the Ruger prescribed high torque specifications, as they tend to find any looseness in the bedding to get a running start which can easily result in cracks. This is one of the reasons behind their posted video on the Ruger website. Best ![smile smile](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/default/smile.gif)
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Hi there guys, Just want to get the numbers for for tightening the action screws on my hawkeye. Just fitted a new Hogue overmoulded with the full length bedding block but wish to know what inch/lbs to tighten the angled screw and rear screw?? I recall 60 for the rear and 40 for the angled?? Does this sound right? Any other tips? Cheers Gus
would apreciate a field report after you shoot it. i'm thinking about picking up one myself. would like to hear before and after results, comfort in shooting and anything else you think about it. Jim, I tried the full length bedding block Hogue stock today on my Ruger hawkeye - and the rifle shot very well . Using factory Federal Premium Vital Shok loads (270 Win) with the 130 Grain Ballistic tips - I got one group well under half an inch and a few others around 0.75 inch - which is spot on - and heck, I aint the best shooter off the bench!!! So I can recommend the Hogue stock with the full bedding block very highly. Gus
Last edited by Gus_K; 09/11/11.
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I went 60 inch pounds on the front, and 35 on the rear.
Make sure that the magazine box floats or it will push up on the center of the action.
Remove completely the center screw or only tighten it with your fingernail.
All the stocks will benefit from bedding the recoil lug. if only one corner is touching the recoil lug or the action is not sitting down on the bedding block, you are screwed on accuracy.
I just got finished tweeking one out.
Also, check the hole that the angled screw goes through, I have had to open up the last two that I worked on. You didn't mention that if things arn't right with the wood stock in fit-up it may crack the stock when you put the full torque requirement on it. It happens, I've had to fix a few like this. As it is now, I bed all my ruger rifles from the get go.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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