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Tzone,

That sucks that you lost all your pics! I have done that before and you feel like kicking your own azz!

We had it sputtering in less than a half an hour and we had it sustaining idle & pulling fuel on it's own in about an hour. We had a little trouble with the cork gasket on the sedement bowl for the fuel pump. It was sucking air past the cork gasket. Me and Nate made a new temporary gasket out of a tire innertube. Nice rubber gasket.

I don't know about converting, I need to research that some more. I need to know if the starter can handle the 12 volts and I also need to find out if a 12 volt conversion can still run possitive ground like the original 6 volt system does.

my hunch is that all I need is a single wire (internally regulated) alternator and a voltage drop to 6 for feeding the gauges in the dash.

But I'm not sure, there's probably more to it. Probably some ignition (distributor related) changes need to be made too? [/quote]

I've been out of the loop so long Dave that I really don't recall all that's needed to accomplish the voltage change. I'd definitly go for it though if it isn't to big a deal. A lot of the old 6 volt systems hated cold weather and would refuse to start once the temps hit zero. The old 6 volt batteries just didn't have the needed cranking amps to get the job done. I spent a lot of time as a kid helping my dad and grandfather jump start those old systems. Of course the fact that a lot of the old timers still had 20 or 30 weight oil in the crankcase didn't help either.

x 2

Happy day late birthday Missy!

I meant to shoot you a txt yesterday, don't know how I forgot. I guess I was sidetracked with all this old car business.

Kinda funny but, it would be nice if you could drive in there.

Hey Dave,

My Pa's done a few of them, I'd even wager a guess that he's done a bunch of them. He did it to my '55 before it was mine, in the 80's I think is when he did that one.

Give him a call and he'll be more than happy to help you out with that.

Rooster, I was so pizzed off I didn't get to sleep until 2AM. It was an absolutely GREAT weekend with the wife and kids and I don't have any pics other than cell phone pics.

Then, I get to shaving today for the month and I have gray hair in my beard. OK, not really on that one, but Ma's going to give me heck forever now.

smilin' like heck!

Nice! You called it - running in an hour. How'd the stopping part go?

Be proud of that then. Look at her shine! Exuding a wierd purpleness. The purple bugs me, but my boy thinks it's a chick magnet. Retro I tell you.

Guy we bought it from says on straight trail and a thumb full, it's hard to believe what the speedo says. 2100 miles, should be good for a couple of seasons.

4

Yes. that F'n hurt. Day five and it still f'n hurts. Worst part was on day two when I pulled the saw out of the truck to start cutting again. Chain brake had fired. No comfort in that. Too little too late. And each tooth had a little piece of blue jeans and other undescribable horrors on it. I had to lop up a couple of oak tree branches just to floss the bar. Then I filed it and got to work. Creepy.

Boys, don't underestimate safety. Work slow and thoughtfull. Keep your first aid kit handy. A half mile is a little far to go. And charge your cell phone. Lonely when there's only one battery bar - and you're afraid to waste it on 911. You save it for your family. Chainsaw chaps are not for whimps. They're for men who work hard. Lessons learned. Let me learn for you.

4

We converted an H to 12 volt when I was in grade school. Bypassed the magneto with a 12 volt coil; kept the distributor as is. Replaced a gage or 2. Put in an AC Delco alternator. Replaced the foot activated ignition switch with a keyed switch. The starter was up for 12 volts in this case. Still runs ~ 30 years later. Don't think it's positive ground anymore, but it's been a long time. Why do you need to keep it positive ground?

A lot of the old tractors with the magneto had spring loaded kill switches. Supposedly, with positive ground, they could spontaneously start when struck by lightning. They were usually left in gear to keep them from rolling.

Had a fire at the property I'm working on today. ended up with over a dozen engine crews, 2 hotshot crews 2 or 3 SEAT planes and a helicopter doing bucket drops. the fire started right along the road, not sure of the cause yet but it could have been a careless cigarette or maybe someone set it intentionally.
here's a couple pics

within the first 30 mins or so of the blaze starting


initial attack crews


getting a little bigger


spreading up a steep ridge


staging area for water

Craig,

I'm real glad you're able to even write on here today, let alone give us safety tips. The older I get and see that my little boy wants to everything EXACTLY like dad, I find myself being more and more safe. I believe it is time for a pair of chaps.

WOW. You got your work cut out for you now Ryan.

HAPPY BELATED BIRTHDAY,MUFFY!

Dave,the car really looks great.Takes me back some years.
Keep up the good work.


Stan in SC

Stopping?? yeah it don't do that yet lol!!

But I really got the engine running smooth last night.

Sounds great.

I saw a demo on the chain saw chaps years ago out in Maine and it was impressive to say the least. They do work.

Happy belated birthday Muffy!

Ryan, hope you have that fire out or at least under control by now.

They are good sleds.

Couple of retro triple tips for you.

You can sinc the carbs with your fingers reaching in the throats of the carbs. That's how the plant workers set them up at the factory. 2 carbs at a time with index and middle finger on the same hand, stick one finger in the center carb and one in an outboard carb and feel along the top of the air passage for the bottom edges of the slides with the thumb throttle held wide open. You want to feel the same amount of slide edge at WOT (wide open throttle) along the top sides of the carb throat. Get an outboard carb matched up to the center then use that center for a standard to match the other outboard carb to. That's your non racked cable drawn triple carb tip of the day.

Your sled looks late 90's, I don't recall exactly when it was everybody fell in love with purples again but I'm thinking late 90's. 1997 (or 98?) was the first year the xlt engine got direct oiling to the crank if I recall correctly, this is a good thing. These sleds were also famous for flooding the carbs when sitting or riding on a trailer and the fuel runs forward through the intake ports and fills the crank case with gas. This gas is straight gas, no oil in it since the oil is injected separately and only while the crank is spinning since the oil pump runs off the engine. You don�t want to flood that case too many times with straight gas because it washes your crank bearings.

So, when you go to pull the rope and it feels like it's hydro locking , your crank case is probably flooded. Reach under the exhaust ports on the very bottom front edge of the engine and you will find 3 10mm drain plug bolts. These will drain the gas out of the cylinders for you. If you get "good at draining your triple" then you might want a new set of float needles.

If you get new float needles (highly recommended no matter what) get a set of 3 viton tipped needles and you should be golden.

Check your chain case oil level periodically (like every outing) if the case gasket blows out down low you might not see a leak and it will go dry on you. Change that oil once a year, drain plug is on the bottom of the case accessible from a hole in the belly pan, they don't hold much oil so it won't break the bank. I'd run the polaris synthetic chain case oil.

Check your chain tension by loosening the jam nut on the tightening bolt and screwing in the tightening bolt with your fingers. Grab the driven clutch with your hand and rock the clutch and jack shaft forward and back as you finger tighten the tensioning bolt. Finger tight, no more than that then reset your jam nut.

Try to get some grease to the jack shaft bearing behind the driven clutch, almost impossible to do without pulling the clutch. If you do pull the driven clutch then take time to clean the shaft end and the shaft bore on the clutch, add a thin film of grease to the shaft end before reassembly. The driven clutch should actually have some thrust travel on the jackshaft. Basically what I mean is you should be able to slide it in and out on the shaft as much as a �� when the retaining bolt is on. This is a good thing because it can find it's true alignment with the drive clutch when engaged.

Check all the bearings and bolts in your rail too. It looks like an xtra 12 rear suspension. Those are cushy rides but it's hell when you get them stuck (he'll find out why)

If you find yourself adjusting the track tension when replacing hifax or whatever, you have to run that track a bit on the loose side. With the sled in the air supported by the rear grab bar that track should hang with considerable slack between the track and hifax. You want like an inch and a half to two inches of hanging sag (unweighted deflection). If you run an xtra 12 too tight you will stick the metal track windows to the hifax, and I do mean STICK, as in get out the pry bar to crack it loose.

And your skis, run about 1/4" toed out on the ski tips. That'll keep it from darting on the trails.

There ya go, way more than anyone ever wanted to know about an old sled lol!!