Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Express Rifles and Big Bores Only Big Bore Rifles and MuzzleBrakes....

I got to shoot a CZ chambered in 416 Rigby the other day at the range. The owner was there getting it sighted in for deer season.... .....but that' another story.

He asked if I wanted to shoot it and I thought sure,..when am I ever going to get another chance.

He had the rifle scoped and was shooting factory Hornady ammo with the 400gr. solid, and he had a muzzlebrake installed.

I was shooting at a 4"x4" target at 50 yards standing offhand. Years ago, I used to shoot competition muzzleloading, so I was trying real hard to keep my form. I used the set trigger, settled the crosshairs best I could and squeezed.

The rifle recoiled and I hit inside the black at 11:00. I was surprised I hit the target since it was my first shot shooting something so intimidating.

The thing that I was so impressed with was how well the muzzlebrake tamed the recoil. IMO, it didn't kick any harder than one of the 300 WhizBang calibers. I think I could shoot his rifle for a long while before calling it quits.

So that got me wondering,..what is the general feeling for muzzlebrakes on "Big Bore" rilfes and rifles that will be used in Africa?

I know they increase the muzzle blast but would that be a decent trade off for an increase in accuracy? Are they generally frowned upon.

It seems like I NEVER see muzzlebrakes on rifles during a filmed African hunt, so I guess there must be a reason.

Thought some of you fellas might have an answer.

When my shoulder quits being stronger than my ears I'll drop down in power.

Here tell PH's, guides, trackers, and other party members hate brakes. may be ok for the range, but re-zero and use thread protectors for huntin' JMHO

Gunner

I haven't put a brake on my 500 Jeffery. I've thought about it, but offhand recoil's really not an issue. I've got the lead sled for the bench.

I've got one on my CZ 550 375 H&H. Most will say its not needed, but it brings the recoil down to 30-06 levels.

The brakes are loud on the range, but that's easily fixed by wearing both ear plugs and ear muffs. When shooting at something dangerous I barely hear my 375 H&H so I would have no issue hunting with one as long as my hunting partner or guide were cool with it. Otherwise for hunting you can always take it off and put on the thread protector. I've thought about it, just haven't had one installed.

The increase in muzzle blast and resulting hearing damage is the reason they aren't seen more.

Yep, they are doing damage, and lots of it, whith each firing. Have had a couple, will not again. Heavier gun or lighter loads for me.

Thanks guys, I guess I'll stick with my lead sled for the bench. Offhand the 500 Jeffery is a breeze.

Bingo. And why, why, why set triggers on a DG Big Bore???

Because all CZ 550's come with a single-set trigger.

I've found, however, that if you adjust the primary (unset) pull to around three pounds, the set feature goes away. This is how the trigger is set in both my 9.3x62 and .416 Rigby CZ's.

I only have one rifle at the moment with a muzzle brake. It is a Mk V in .460 with the older pendleton. Yes, it is needed

I want to take it to Africa, so PH beware! lol

I shoot a 338/378 Weatherby. Not exactly a big bore but the hammer of Thor for sure. It is braked and I can tell you it is loud. If are not wearing hearing protection you will sustain permant neuro sensory damage to your hearing. I use electronic ear muff attenuators. They cut out sudden loud noises above 85db while still allowing you to hear normal converation.
Most GOes in Africa do not allow muzzle breaks when hunting dangerous game. When you touch off the rifle you go deaf for a while and you are unable to hear instructions and take directions. Not a good thing if you have wounded Mbogo (Black Death) You could get yourself stomped into a red mud puddle if you are unable to follow vital directions because you are deaf.
Oh one last comment, it shoots a five shot group at .435MOA at 100 meters. Ya gotta like that.

When I shoot my .458Lott off the bench I sit more square on with it (if that makes sense)in my shoulder also I shoot from a high bench so I am not leaning too far forward, so when I do fire it just pushes me back. I also have a recoil reducer (The Max) in the butt which does take the edge off the recoil. I was sat up a tree with it in August on a skinny little plank (skinny for my fat @rse!) and shot a Kudu. I never felt the recoil and also stayed up the tree!
When you are using a rifle in the field you are unaware of recoil and hear very little of the bang! Never been a fan of muzzel breakes, but some folks like them.
Maybe worth trying shooting off sticks without the muzzel break fitted and just let the rifle push you back, rather than leaning too far into it like on a low bench.
Also got a recoil rducer in my ..375 wby. I used to have it on a synthetic stock, but after I was in a car crash and messed my neck from going through the window head first, I found it rattled me when I fired it. I made a laminate stock with a slightly wider butt to disperse the recoil as well as the reducer, which seems to work well (same with the Lott) for me any way.
May be worth looking at these options instead of a muzzel break.

My 7 1/2 lb (with scope) 375 Weatherby comes back a bit too sharply with Weatherby factory rounds (I found one box for $45). With 375 H&H rounds the recoil is much more mild. I am going to work up a 300g Swift A-Frame load at 2700 fps though. Perhaps with a slower powder the recoil may be a bit slower.

Been using 250gr Barns X with 71r of H4895 giving 2729fps which seems to work very well out of Weatherby with a 24"brl.
The recoil reducer just takes the edge of the kick out and also a bit of weight in the butt help ballance the rifle nicley.
Varget is another powder that works well. I have some load data for .375wby using Varget and also other powders, will try and dig it out when I can and PM you with it.
Cheers,
Paul.

Thanks Paul! I have two mercury recoil reducers in my CZ 500 Jeffery and the balance is perfect. My Rem XCR II in 375 Weatherby has a 22" barrel and the balance is just right now, so I can't add a reducer. I'll try slower powders and just shoot the 500 Jeffery a few times before I shoot the 375 Weatherby. That usually does the trick ...

The above is so true. I have no recoil reducer on my Lott, neither do I have a muzzle break. The only shot(s) you hear is the one the hunter usually sneaks in as a last reminder. That's the shot that rattles your ear lobes and makes your nose bleed when a muzzle break is involved. I really do not like them when I am at the receiving end of too much decibels.

Most certainly I am a sissy boy when it comes to shooting at game. The last time I remember shooting at a game animal without electronic hearing protection and a muzzle brake I notice both how loud the rifle was and how hard it kicked.

Now everything I have except the .22 rimfires have brakes. Even my Freedom Arms .454. And of course I aways use the electronic hearing protection when hunting.

I don't see how anyone can fire a big revolver (.44 Mag and up) without hearing protection and not suffer hearing damage.

I like to practice with my guns and not flinch so both my 300 Weatherby Vanguard and now my CZ 416 Rigby have muzzle control modifications.

If someone you hunt with does not like them, hunt with someone more intelligent.

You just need a rifle that kicks the crap out of you harder than the ones you typically hunt with. My 500 Jeffery does that for me. After shooting my 500 Jeffery, my 7 1/2 lb 375 Weatherby feels like a 300 Weatherby (oh never mind ... )