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how hard is it to sharpen a convex edge like say on a bark river trail buddy or canadian speacial in a-2 steel

nobody i want a bark river but dont want a knife thats hard to sharpen

as long as you follow the correct procedure for a convex blade, it is easy to keep them sharp.
A quick look on youtube will return a lot of videos on how to do that.
I have Bark River Bravo 1 and Aurora knives. For production knives, they are as good as it gets.

Sandpaper and a mouse pad is all you need. That and practice and it is not that hard.

Tripp.

Actually, once either the entire blade bevel is convexed as with a Bark River etc or a convex secondary bevel is put on a flat,hollow or Scandi grind(the edge itself), they are not hard to keep sharp. A double sided strop charged with coarse black and fine white compound will touch up most edges just fine.

You can also do it with sandpaper with a flexible backer or with a water stone and the right technique.

I wouldn't wory about the Bark River being difficult to sharpen. I've started putting convex edges on my field knives, in part, because it's so easy to keep them sharp. A few strops on a leather shoelace works for touch-ups in the field. A piece of 2000 grit sandpaper, a mouse pad and about 60 seconds is all that's usually needed for bringing back a slightly duller edge.

How do you get the convex edge on an older knife to begin with. This is a new subject to me. Thanks

I start with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and the back of a mouse pad. For setting the edge, I use a shallow angle (<20 degrees), moderate pressure and strop the blade perpendicular to the edge (i.e. rotate the knife as it's stropped the keep the edge perpendicular to the sandpaper).

As the edge becomes convexed, you'll be able use your fingernail to feel the rounded edge as opposed to the sharp drop-off of a beveled edge.

After the edge is convexed and starts to get sharp enough to shave hair, I go to 800-1000 grit and then 2000. Last step is a leather strop. The leather may or may not have some embedded polishing compound.

In setting the edge, it's important to start with a shallow angle, or the edge will be dull from being rounded. As the edge is set and you go to finer grits, polishing the edge rather than setting it, the stropping pressure should be reduced to little more than the weight of the knife and the stropping angle can be increased toward 20 degrees. Every blade and steel is a little different, and may take a little experimentation, but once the edge is finished, it pays off in the ease of keeping the knife sharp. With a convex edge, re-sharpening (re-polishing, really), isn't terribly angle sensitive and takes very little time. The edge also responds to field stropping really well, when or if needed.

Maybe I am missing something, but when you have a flat cut to the edge,you basically cyut the edge into the stone or diamond from each side to sharpen.
Convex you are dragging it backwards from the edge back up to the flat to establish that edge. I can do a convex by using a slack belt and it grinds from the edge back to the flat to convex it