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RickBin Offline OP
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For you?
<br>
<br>What caliber, and why?
<br>
<br>What type of weight?
<br>
<br>What type of optics?
<br>
<br>I'll save my opinions for just a bit.
<br>
<br>Rick


"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
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Do we get to play if we have never been elk hunting??
<br>
<br>
<br>Mike


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You might have really opened a can of worms here, about time we needed a good argument, I guess. [Linked Image]
<br>
<br>My ultimate Elk rifle sits in my safe now. My Pre 64 Winchester 338 Win mag works just fine for me. I've tried several others, 30-06, 7Mag, etc.. and nothing I've found works as well with as little fuss and recoil as my .338. At the velocities and pressures this round operates at, it works perfectly within the design parameters of just about any bullet out there and brings home the bacon. I'm not convinced the high energy rounds (340 Wby, 338UM, etc..) can say that unless you use premium bullets at all times. And I've always thought that the .338 caliber was the perfect size for energy transfer, ballistics, and efficiency in a cartridge for big, tough animals like Elk, moose, African plains game, etc...
<br>I like to keep the weight up around 7-8 pounds because I like a little heavier barrel than most for a hunting rifle. It helps with holding steady after humping hills, and at the range it holds zero better when working up loads.
<br>My favorite scopes are the 2.5x8 -3x9 range scopes in LEUPOLD, of course. This gives me the flexibility to hunt in the deep, dark lodgpole and also the cross canyon shooting that comes up in the areas I hunt. I've used both extremes and I know it works for me.
<br>The biggest thing with optics is that it has to line up properly when you bring it up. This has as much to do with stock design as optics, but they both have to work together. Using a 50MM objective scope with a stock not designed for it is a waste of time, IMHO. Conversely, using a standard 40MM scope with a stock designed for iron sights is just as handicapped. Your milage may vary.
<br>
<br>Of course, now that the teaser has been put out there, I'm curious what Rick has in mind? - Sheister


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For me, and only me, the perfect Elk rifle is one that gives me complete confidence that I can make a clean kill from any angle on any Elk at any time, from any reasonable range.
<br>That rifle is sitting in my safe right now
<br>As to the brand and caliber, that doesn't matter because everyone will have a different opinion, but for me it's perfect and that is all that matters
<br>


















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RickBin Offline OP
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Mike:
<br>
<br>You can play.
<br>
<br>
<br>Sheist:
<br>
<br>Thanks.
<br>
<br>
<br>Tracks:
<br>
<br>FOUL!!! What does it have in its POCKETSES??
<br>
<br>Rick

Last edited by RickBin; 04/03/02.

"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
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I've always done critters of that class with what was handy. I discovered long ago a good bullet is worth a belted case any day.
<br> I must admit having both, with that class of critter, is nice. The little stuff looses steam out past 200 yds. The .338 does not. And Sheister is right about standard bullets do OK in that round. But, even with the .338 class, the premiums allow one to do things-like shoot through lots of critter at a bad angle-that the little ones don't. At least untill you get to the best 160-175 gr. 7 mm bullets out of something like the .280.
<br> Being a little, wimpy old guy; I like a little more weight-say 9 lbs.-in that class of musket.
<br> But, my fantasy is not the .338 Win. I lust for a 9.3X62. Pushing a 250 gr. X at 2600-2700 fps., I suspect that would do. I could have a 22 inch barrel, and shave the weight a half pound. Say a Ruger Mk.II action, a couple of Leos., like a 6X42, and stock 4X. Pac-Nor Super Match SS and McMillian Sako Classic, of course.
<br> Of course, a really light elk musket, would be the .308. 7 lbs. all up. I just happen to have one that's close to that. I guess I'll just continue to stumble along in my usual way. E

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The key here is ultimate. Not what will work, but a true dedicated elk rifle.
<br>
<br>This means you need the ability for close shots in the timber but the ability to reach out there for the long shots. The rifle should also be good for timber and mountain hunting, as well as the scope.
<br>
<br>For caliber, the 8mm magnum fits the bill nicely as does the 338. Smaller calibers will do, but remember, this is the ultimate ELK rifle. Not the deer rifle that can be used for elk. Action would be any that suits you and barrel kept to 24 inches. Scope should be of high quality to withstand the hardship of the hunt and light gathering ability of the dark timber. I prefer the leupold 1.75-6 or 2.5-8. Low power for the timber and plenty high for long shots on elk. Weight should be kept to around 8lbs with scope, sling, and ammo.
<br>
<br>My personal choice would be my M70 in 358STA with leupold 1.75-6. 250gr bullets at 3000fps from a 23in barrel is hard to beat. The weight of mine is 8.5lbs.


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ok I'll play, but it is 2 rifles. For timber it is a remington 7600 in 35 Whelen wearing a B&L elite 1.5x6. For more open areas it is a 356 norma mag wearing a B&L elite 2x7. tom


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This is easy. If you are a short range hunter and all your shots are inside a quarter mile then get a 338 win mag. Big bores perform best on elk sized critters. This cartridge with 200 grain factory bullets can be fired comfortably and accurately in a lightweight mountain type rifle without a muzzle brake. It is extremely accurate in most factory rifles and will flatten any elk. It is a short efficient case that does very well in short light barrels and bullets can be found easily in any elk country. Top it with a lightweight scope in the 1x6 or 3x9 category that has high light gathering ability, wide FOV, excellent clarity and dependable in rugged situations. The 338 win mag is the best factory elk round that can be fired comfortably without a muzzle brake. The 340 wby and larger will destroy your shoulder.
<br>If your hunting style requires shooting beyond a quarter mile at elk then you need no advice on cartridge selection here in this forum. You have shot thousands of rounds at long range and have advanced your skills to the level where you are familiar with everything out there and have made a good logical decision already taylored specifically to your hunting style. My choice from the factory available cartridges is the 338-378 weatherby. Big calibers are best for elk and this one delivers more energy at longer ranges than any factory available shoulder fired hunting weapon.
<br>If you want to get into wildcats my choices are the 338 gibbs for inside a quarter mile and one of the 338 Lapua improved versions for long range. Not much velocity difference than the big 378 case but is short enough to allow bullets seated out to the lands and still feed comfortably through the magazine.
<br>If you notice all are 338's. I have seen many elk die since the 60's. The 338's are for good reason.

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Rick,
<br>OK, so if you force me to provide more information- It pushes a 338 caliber, 250 gr nosler at an average chrony indicated 3,019 fps
<br>However the key for me is confidence, I shoot a lot better if I don't have to worry a lot about hold over, is it X high at Y yards, and do I have to try a tricky neck shot (the spine on an Elk is buried deep in the neck, as those of you who have taken one apart are aware) instead of trying to take out the lungs and at least one shoulder
<br>If I only have to point and shoot, I do those two things a lot better


















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Guys,
<br>
<br> I have seen and herd a lot of guns for Elk hunting, well here is what some say and what I think.
<br>
<br> Ultimate rifle: the 300 ultra mag.
<br>Why: because it hits and they feel it and don't go no where after it has been hit.
<br>
<br> What Type of weight: 180 grain Scirocco bullet or 150 in the same bullet. Has plenty of speed and punch to it that no elk that has walked on earth can handle.
<br>
<br> What type of optics: As far as I'm concerned it could be the cheapest or most expensive scope, The fact of the matter is that it has to have good light transimssion and give you all the hunting time possible. The more light the scope takes in, the more time I have to hunt in the crucial time (before sunup, and after sundown). Having said that, no 32mm scopes for me. I would do a Leupold with a 40mm or bigger with a variational power either a 4-12 or better.
<br>
<br> A 300 win mag ain't to shabby either, but it is not the ultimate. Just my opinion.
<br>
<br>86


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<br>[Linked Image]
<br>Blaser LRS2 338 Lapua
<br>Barnes 225 gr. XLC's to the tune of 3200 FPS. (any powder recomendations?)
<br>Rifle Package includes: Leupold Vari-XIII 4.5-14 Mil-dot and scope mount, muzzle brake, bipod, sling, hard carry case, 1 magazine & trigger lock (what a deal!)
<br>

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for me the ultimate is a 300stw i have built. 27" wolthar barrel 700 action 3position safety custom stock i designed, leuopold 4.5x14 with preimer reticle hold over dots 300 to 700 yds with a range finding line. whole package weighs 8 1/4 lbs, 180 scirrocco at 3350 fps. i am not a black timber hunter thats why no sights, a fair # of elk and deer as well as milk jugs have payed a mighty price when this rig is around.

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>338 Short Action Ultra Mag for point blank black timber to 500 yard shots on heavy game (I wimp out at about 350, myself, usually). I wuv my standard, belted .338 on moose (mostly black timber) and see no reason to change caliber, but I'd really like to have one in short action. Or standard length action. Eight pounds with scope, sling, and 8 rounds. Stainless/synthetic. Magnaported or maybe BOSSED. 300 USM would be second choice, Any good low light scope, the more expensive the better according to what the budget stands. I think the 2 to 7 or 2.5 to 8 is the ideal variable power scope for such a rig.


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I guess I'm pretty close to las on this one. I'm planning on a .338 WSM, likely a Rem 700 action, aftermarket barrel ~24", mcmillan stock in Sako Hunter config, good trigger, Leupold variXIII 2.5-8x40, somewhere around 8-8.5 lbs with scope.
<br>
<br>Gets me all warm and happy inside just thinking about it [Linked Image].

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RickBin Offline OP
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Hi all:
<br>
<br>I'm still holding out, but I will share a few things that the ultimate elk rifle is NOT, for me. We're talking ULTIMATE here, remember. And did I mention for me? Yeah, for me.
<br>
<br>1) It does not weight over 9 lbs. in full "hunting mode." 8.5 lbs is much better.
<br>
<br>2) It does not wear a barrel over 24."
<br>
<br>3) It does not wear shiny varnish or highly polished metal.
<br>
<br>4) It is not smaller than 7 mm (uh oh) and .308+ is preferred.
<br>
<br>5) It is not a single shot.
<br>
<br>6) It does not wear a scope with an objective larger than 42 mm.
<br>
<br>7) It does not wear a fixed 6x.
<br>
<br>8) It does not wear a Harris bipod.
<br>
<br>Flamesuit firmly affixed.
<br>
<br>Rick
<br>


"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
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My John Ricks built SS Rem 700, McMillan "Sako Varmint" style stock, 27" Pac-Nor #5, Leupold 1.5x10x40 AO, 338 RUM.
<br>
<br>This rifle weighs about 9.75 lbs all dressed up. I love the stock desgin and the balance of this rifle. I wouldn't want it any lighter, and I haven't had a problem carrying rifles of this wiegth and even a touch heavier. I can quickly shoulder it with the target centered in the crosshairs.
<br>
<br>Plan to use 225 X bullets in it. I have no illusion about this being any "better" than a 338 Win. However, I like this gun and I like how accurate the chambering is. What else is there to consider?
<br>
<br>Blaine

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It sounds that Rick Binn will like one of my ultimate rifles for elk.
<br>A Remington 700KS stainless in .338 Win. from their custom shop. The rifle with 1.5x6 Leupold, in dual dovetail mounts, and 3 shells in the mag and one up the pipe just about weighs in at 8.5 lbs, including foam filled cordura sling. It ain't pretty but it is very practical.
<br>It is very portable and quick to get into action, yet not so light that it is difficult to control in offhand shooting.
<br>It shoots 3-4 inch groups @ 300 yards with 225 Nosler partitions in front of IMR4831 @ 2870-2900 fps. It shoots very flat, and under the right wind conditions a great 400 yard big game rifle.
<br>In short, a serious piece of ordnance. This load shot diagonally through a 2 year old Alberta moose and exited the animal, accounted for a number of elk, moose, blackbear and whitetails. No it is not the rifle I select for my whitetails, but then when moose and elk hunting you run into deer or bear. The .338 in my loading does not destroy as much meat on deer as my .270 with 130 grain hornadys. The .338 Win. gives you the edge on the funny angle shots you would have to turn down with a .270 or 06 class rifle.
<br>The 06 kills moose nicely, the .338 numbs them.
<br>My other favourite elk/moose/bear rifle is a Sako delux in dull oil finish also in .338, but weighs more.
<br>
<br>

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I like my Ruger in 300win mag, or my Sako in 375 H&H. Good enough for me.[Linked Image]


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Rick
<br>As I said the ultimate elk rifle will be finished in a few weeks. When you get a chance, read the book titled
<br>"Elk Rifles, Cartridges, and Hunting Tactics" written by Wayne van Zwoll . Read chapter 19 . It starts on page 255. I dont put a lot of faith in all gun writers but Wayne is not a bullshiter. He will tell you straight up what he thinks if you ask . I know . I have ask several times. I think you are covered for elk but you need a good 257 Roberts Ackley for deer sized game. Wouldnt hurt to have a 375 for bear. Or maybe a new prototype outfit I am working on. On your 30-06, use a 180 Partition, Reloder 19, Federal GM210M primers, Norma brass, Leupold 2.5 x 8 scope and you wont be sorry.
<br>Charlie Sisk


The data and opinions contained in these posts are the results of experiences with my equipment. NO CONCLUSIONS SHOULD BE DRAWN FROM ANY DATA PRESENTED, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ATTEMPT TO REPLICATE THESE RESULTSj
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