Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Pro Hunter 7mm-08 stringing

I have a T/C Pro Hunter 7mm-08 that is 1/2 moa on windage and stringing like crazy verticle. After speaking with Mike Bellm I installed a 1x hinge pin, new heavier lock up spring, heavy hammer spring and trigger spring which got me to a crisp 3 pounds. Measured head space per his instructions at .0035 which he said was ideal. Still stringing 2-5 moa. I have Leupold DD base and rings and checked mounting hole depth. Scope is sub moa on other rifles. Cast of chamber shows nothing out of the ordinary. Stock and forearm are synthetic and the only thing I haven't touched. Can anybody please offer any advise?

What are you using for a front rest? Are you making sure the forend is located at the same spot on the rest for each shot?

I use a Caldwell lead sled. The front rest contacts the forearm kind of far forward but in the same place every time. It is really aggravating because the rifle carries and handles so well.

Have you tried to just shoot it off a regular front rest and rear bag, using your shoulder?

No I haven't. I was thinking the forearm might need bedding but don't know if you can bed a synthetic one.

It could be, but I'd try to shoot it the regular way first...should have very little recoil in that rifle.

Yea. Recoil is not an issue. My nine year old daughter shoots it. I think I will try it off a bag tomorrow and see what happens. I called T/C and they want me to send them the whole rifle. I hate to because they will take out all the mods I did to the frame. Plus I will have to pay freight just to have them tell me that there is nothing wrong.

Check if forearm is touching reciever and barrel is free floating in the forearm some people use rubber o-ring to give some space but I'm not to fond of that just sand forearm so nothing is touching but the screw pillars of forearm.

Check if forearm is touching reciever and barrel is free floating in the forearm some people use rubber o-ring to give some space but I'm not to fond of that just sand forearm so nothing is touching the barrel but the screw pillars of forearm.

I just finished filing the fork so it doesn't touch the frame and ground down the saddle between the pillars. I filed down the sides so the only thing touching now is the two pillars. When I set it in the sled the weight of the gun resting on the forearm way up front does push it up and it touches the barrel. I am going to try it on the bags since I "floated" the barrel and see what happens like kciH suggested also.

I used "Marine Tex" to build up the forend tip with some bedding pressure and it worked. Most T/C forends do not lay flat on the barrel....they tend to rock fore and aft but not flat.

Doc

If floating it doesn't help I am going to try going the other way and bed it just for s&g's. I better Goggle up that "Marine Tex" and check it out. Tks

You might wat to contact Stratton Custom and get the hanger bar system for the front forearm.

I have shot my Handi Rifles with the forend off to determine if the forend is causing the problem. Sometimes this has really improved shot to shot consistency. Then you could take the action needed with an O ring or bedding the forend.

Using a torque setting screwdriver to tighten the forend screw is another suggestion. I use 35 inch pounds on all my single shot forend screws. This takes one possible problem out of the equation.

This past fall I bought an Encore Pro Hunter Frame and a 24" Stainless-Steel Encore .30-06 Barrel. The first thing I did was ditch the Pro Hunter Buttstock and Forend and replaced them with the regular Synthetic Encore Buttstock and Forend.

There are 3 stiffening crossbars in the forend, one behind the rear screw post, one in front of the front screw post and one between the two screw posts. Mine were sticking way up above the two screw posts so the barrel was resting on those 3 stiffening crossbars and not touching the screw posts.

I immediately dremeled them down so the 3 stiffening crossbars didn't touch the barrel. That in and of itself helped a lot. However my local gunsmith insisted that he bed the forend creating saddles for the barrel to sit on and put in steel pillars for the screws to pass through.




I then experimented with forend screw torque and discovered that mine shot the best with the screws torqued to 15 InLbs.

Now it'll print sub moa groups at 100 yards. I do try to keep my rest centered under the rear forend screw so everything is the same everytime.

Larry

Larry in SD, that is exactly what I have in mind for the forearm. Kurt Bellm said they are working on a kit to do it yourself and I have to check out Stratton Custom per cooperfan. I found some of the problem today. My Redfield Revolution 3-9X50 on that rifle has 1.5moa parallax at 100 yards now for some reason.

That'd be a problem.

Larry

I seem to remember reading (somewhere) that hunting scopes are normally parallax-free at 100 yards. Is that information wrong?

If not, send the scope BACK to Redfield for repair or adjustment.


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

I had the same problem with same cal. sent the barrel back to Tc they fix it 2 times right on . I fix it myself bought a CVA barrel solve the problem

That's your first mistake. You might as well discard that rig before you break your butt stock at the pistol grip. The 7-08 hardly recoils enough for that. But, you'll NEVER get that gun to shoot using that.

Make sure your forend ears are not touching the frame or hinge pin. Don't you think it's strange that after Bellm divested your wallet of all that money your gun shoots no different?