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I'm going to be spending some more time with the handgun in the coming months. Over the last couple of weeks, I've run about 250 lead WC's and SWC loaded in the 38 special cartridge in the M28 Highway Patrolman, 357 mag. I'm getting what appears to be a build up of crud just in front of the step in the cylinder. Its not easy to get out; I have to work at it.
I know that the 38's are safe in here, but wonder if there's any damage I'm doing to the cylinder beyond the mess.
I know I can load the light loads in the 357 case and am considering doing just that to avoid the mess; I don't know what to expect as far as performance of the light 38 loads loaded in the 357 brass.
I do have a shorter barreled 38 I could shoot all the 38's in but its not as much fun as the M28. Its a K frame but the N frame just fits my hand so much better.
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I know that the 38's are safe in here, but wonder if there's any damage I'm doing to the cylinder beyond the mess. The actual firing of the shorter .38 Special won't hurt anything, but repeated aggressive cleaning can be a problem. Some cleaning 'methods' are tough on guns. I've loaded .38 Special powder charges in .357 Mag brass, but it messes with my head so I don't do it often. I wouldn't do it with fast/low volume powder.
Forgive me my nonsense, as I also forgive the nonsense of those that think they talk sense. Robert Frost
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i just use a pick to clean it out. works like a charm. or just use a vinyl brush in a drill on a rod to clean it out with some Hoppes #9.
30-06 till i die, the greatest round ever! I carry a gun because a cop is too heavy! CEO of a Turdlike People: Turds & Tats Division... (per Ingwe )
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Campfire Ranger
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Black Powder Cleaning Gels works real well for hard powder fouling. Might want to give that a try as well for removing the 38 spcl 'ring' in each cylinder.
LOVE God, LOVE your family, LOVE your country, LIKE guns and sports.
About 2016 team "R" candidates "We definitely need a crew with a sack of balls the size of hot water bottles, bloviated estrogen leaking feel-gooders need not apply." Gunner 500
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Hoppe's will work for that too, just let it soak for 20 minutes or so before scrubbing. Loosens up the crud pretty good.
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Campfire Tracker
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Yep, cylinder could be a bit**ch to clean it will leave a ring. Could get to the point where a 357 will have issues chambering. I have done it and have had to clean the pistol. Easier to use a light loaded 357. Same issue with 44 mag and 44 special.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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If you run a patch, wet with Hoppes #9 or other quality solvent through those charge holes after each shooting session, maybe also use a brass brush every few times, you can pretty much eliminate that build up.
Sam......
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Try about 4.5 gr of W231, Universal Clays or Unique in a .357 case with a 158 gr cast SWC, or step it up a bit with full WC's and you will be happy.I have run several thousand thru my 686 and a lot thru my Blackhawk with that load.
Last edited by saddlesore; 02/09/12.
If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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I have numerous powders on hand for mild loading, among them is bullseye, Unique, Clays, and Herco. I also have HS6 & 7 for stouter loads, as well as a bit of H110 and some Blue Dot. I have about 4x as much 38 special brass as 357 brass, hence the reason for the question. I'm happy with most any power range of load from target wadcutters to full house magnum loads, but I'm planning on a power range of standard target velocity 38 special for the lead target loads, and full power 38 to 38+P for the jacketed heads I have on hand. I'm a plinker for sure, but will have to run some full house 357's just to remind myself how much fun they can be.
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Sort of related - I wouldn't use .357 Mag loads in .38 Special brass. I wouldn't risk the higher pressure flame cutting the leading 'edge' of the cylinder throat. Also, some guys claim .38 Special brass isn't up to the pressure, but that might not be true with all brands. Still, I wouldn't risk that either for the price of .357 Mag brass.
Forgive me my nonsense, as I also forgive the nonsense of those that think they talk sense. Robert Frost
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Campfire Regular
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I'm going to be spending some more time with the handgun in the coming months. Over the last couple of weeks, I've run about 250 lead WC's and SWC loaded in the 38 special cartridge in the M28 Highway Patrolman, 357 mag. I'm getting what appears to be a build up of crud just in front of the step in the cylinder. Its not easy to get out; I have to work at it.
I know that the 38's are safe in here, but wonder if there's any damage I'm doing to the cylinder beyond the mess.
I know I can load the light loads in the 357 case and am considering doing just that to avoid the mess; I don't know what to expect as far as performance of the light 38 loads loaded in the 357 brass.
I do have a shorter barreled 38 I could shoot all the 38's in but its not as much fun as the M28. Its a K frame but the N frame just fits my hand so much better. The biggest problem I see is boredom..
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Sort of related - I wouldn't use .357 Mag loads in .38 Special brass. I wouldn't risk the higher pressure flame cutting the leading 'edge' of the cylinder throat. Also, some guys claim .38 Special brass isn't up to the pressure, but that might not be true with all brands. Still, I wouldn't risk that either for the price of .357 Mag brass. My basic plan is target, lead loads in the 38 brass, and the "heavier" loads in 357 brass. I'm a pretty careful guy, don't like messing with things that I can't find factory data for and loading 357's in 38's is something I wouldn't fool with. Although it would eliminate the potential "boredom" , don't you think?
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Campfire Ranger
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In a .357 or a .44 Magnum, I like using magnum brass for all loads. It avoids the crud buildup problem. If I'm loading light target loads, I use swagged lead bullets, or the cheaper cast bullets with conventional shapes to tell them apart from the more powerful hunting loads. For hunting loads, it's either a jacket soft/hollow point bullet or a wide, cast flat point. E
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nope.....just clean that cylinder a little better....
"It's sad that governments are chiefed by the double tongues." Ten Bears NRA Benefactor LIfe Member USCG Veteran
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Yeah, that's what I do.
My M686's see a good 10,000 rounds of 38 Special +P ammo per year as part of my IDPA practice/competition activity. I just make sure I clean out the chambers with a brass brush and plenty of solvent more or less regularly. No problems chambering 357 loads in any of my revolvers.
"I'm gonna have to science the schit out of this." Mark Watney, Sol 59, Mars
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Campfire Outfitter
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Call me a FOS, but in some .38 Special and .45 ACP loads the cleanest bullets I use are those dusty cold-swaged Hornady lead bullets. They're cheap too.
Although, if you shoot them too hot they turn to mercury or some such.
Forgive me my nonsense, as I also forgive the nonsense of those that think they talk sense. Robert Frost
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Campfire Ranger
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OK, you're FOS. Not! Those Hornady swaged bullets are dead soft almost pure lead, near as I can tell, BHN maybe 8 at the most. I think they shoot so good because the obturate so easily even at low velocities. And that "dusty" stuff is Alox, I believe. Great lube. I use Alox a LOT on my own cast bullets.
Last edited by DocRocket; 02/10/12.
"I'm gonna have to science the schit out of this." Mark Watney, Sol 59, Mars
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Call me a FOS, but in some .38 Special and .45 ACP loads the cleanest bullets I use are those dusty cold-swaged Hornady lead bullets. They're cheap too.
Although, if you shoot them too hot they turn to mercury or some such. I've used quite a few of those in 45 Colt and I may have some left that are .430" or so. Meaning I used them in 44 Mag. and/or Special.
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Campfire Sage
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Campfire Sage
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I wonder how many pages we can go explaining the chambers need to be cleaned occassionally?
Travis
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