Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Remington 700 barrel install question...

my buddy said that becoming a full time smith took all the fun out of it.

Precisely the same reason I didn't become a full time custom furniture maker.

If he's a good friend, ask him to walk you through your first one.

You do the work, under his guidance.

Of course, it happens when he's not busy, and will cost you lunch or a few beers, but that's cheap insurance the first time, to know that you got it right, and safe.

That right there is excellent advice.
The gaging in particular is definitely a feel thing better experienced than described.

I just had my Rem 700 muzzleloader barrel replaced with a new take off and the sight holes ended up at 3 oclock. He has to do some magic to correct that.

To get the right feel with the gauges you need to remove the plunger and spring in the bolt and the firing pin assembly.

The easiest way to correct your problem is to get a over size recoil lug and have it surfaced ground to fit until the sight holes line up.

Yep.

It helps to have a few factory recoil lugs on hand, they vary in thickness and can be used to adjust the headspace a bit either way

You don't need a tool for holding the recoil lug in position if you just make a alignment scribe mark before removing the barrel. You also don't absolutely have to have a lathe in the event you have excessive headspace (bolt closes on N0-Go), just lap (w/ 400 grit compound) the barrel shoulder to recoil lug surface. If headspace is not enough (bolt doesn't close on Go) then you lap the locking lugs. I've rebarreled a lot of Remingtons and I don't own a lathe. Good luck.

I've found it hard to keep the lug precisely in alignment when doing the final torquing of the barrel without the tool or some pins. It obviously can be done though as evidenced by Kalbrecht.
The tool is cheap and makes the job easy.
Kalbrecht, you are saying to lap the lug itself though right?

Pins can (and do) shear off - as far as I'm concerned they're worthless.. The 'tool' has slop in it..

A witness mark, coupled with a small level, works wonders..

Pins in the action wrench won't shear off because they can be as stout as you wish. They also have no slop.
When you get a separate action, barrel and lug there is no opportunity to place a witness mark.

Works for me anyhow.

I've also made my own alignment tools and they have no slop either.

I was merely suggesting the easiest way to get alignment.

With a Savage there is no need for anything however as they have a slot in the action for a projection (on stock lugs) or a pin on aftermarket lugs.
Never broken a Savage pin as they are rather stout.

Nsaqam, I usually lap the surface between the barrel shoulder and the recoil lug, at the same time I also apply some lapping compound between the lug and the action face. By lapping both surfaces at the same time (just rotate the lug back and forth while slowly tightening up the barrel) I speed up the process a little.

Just imagine you're doing a drive-by, and shoot it gangsta style, yo.

I've found the best way to fit a factory barrel, is to have it done by a qualified 'smith. I know at least three within 60-70 miles of my home that will do it for $50-$75... I've had many done, and have yet to come even close to the price of a lathe.

And, before you ask... NO, I am NOT divulging who...

GH

Some people enjoy the satisfaction of doing it themselves. Different strokes for different folks.

I quite agree with that assessment!

That said, however... Many of the folks who want to do it themselves do it because of the expense... Which, unfortunately, is more often folly than frugal... If you don't believe me, just wander around a gun show... You'll find plenty of examples of "Wannabe" gunsmiths.

I couldn't count the times I've seen rear sling swivels mounted waaay to close to the end of the stock, or grossly off center... And many, many grossly unfit recoil pads. Heck! I've even seen recoil pads made out of old car tires... UGH! I shudder to think what would happen if one of these "Bubbas" tried to rechamber a rifle...

Speaking only for myself... I'd much rather pay a professional to do a job than fubar it myself... I figure a wise man knows his limitations...

(" 'Course, a man never knows his limitations 'til he exceeds them...") (that's a quote from 'me')

Look at brownells page and go to the gun tec section and type Remington 700. The article name is how to build your own Remington 700 part I to v

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10506/learn/How-To-Build-Your-Own-Remington-700-Part-I

There is an article on how to rebarrel your Own "custom" rifle with hand tools and of course a pre threaded pre chambered barrel.. It is of course an article on how to buy expensive tools (good tools but expensive) like for Trueing your action and other Manson tools.

I like the hand turned reamer tools I always thought a lathe was needed for that stuff. I have not done it but I'm considering it.