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Slowly getting the components together to shoot my new to me 7/08 NULA. I have never shot such a light rifle from the bench to develope handloads. For my other hunting rifles (7.5-9#) I use a couple of kneeling bags under the forend with a rear bag.
I know the NULA has a reputation of great accuracy and would like to wring out the best in this rifle. Any suggestions? Thanks

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For accuracy testing with a light rifle Mule Deer suggested a very soft towel under the forend. I have tried that and it gets good results.

However if the purpose of a light rifle is to hit something with the first shot then perhaps field positions should be used and or proven on targets.

How would you hold, rest or shoot the rifle at game?


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Westernmassman,

First things first. Welcome to the 24 HOUR CAMPFIRE.

I am primarily a hunter and like/shoot light rifles.

What has worked well for me is a thick sponge, not real sponge but the artificial foam material, that I picked up in the detergent isle of the grocery store. I lay it on my rest and cover it with a terry cloth towel and shoot off that. I have no way to prove it but I like to think that it approximates the lift of my hand in the field.

The 7/08 NULA may be a bit lively when loaded to the max. My Kimber 300WSM sure is and the PAST pad on my shoulder has definitely been helpful also.

99 Sav., in his above post, has it right.

Again, welcome to the fire.

Jim

Last edited by Rug3; 04/06/12.

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My Montana in 338 FED is very lively a the bench. I found technique makes a very significant difference in consistency. What works for me is a bag under the forend (near mag box) and another under the rear of the stock. Then simply grab as if shooting offhand and hold with a firm, but not too tight, grip. I have to hold the forend to get any kind of groups. Basically replicates field position but with extra stability form the bags. If you don't hold the forend it jumps real bad and groups get very large.

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having never had any experience with ultralight rifles and reading about all these special techniques needed to make them shoot accurately and consistantly how do they perform being shot prone with attached bipod?


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I've never shot one from prone with a bipod, because I tend to use a daypack for prone shots in the field, so dunno.

But I that found the bench technique described above, with a towel folded over the front rest, shoots to the same place as shooting over a daypack--one reason I use it. Lighter rifles are a little more sensitive to the hardness of the front rest than heavier rifles, but not so much they're hard to shoot. I've killed a bunch of big game at ranges out to 450 yards with rifles weighing well under 7 pounds with scope.


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Originally Posted by 280Ackleyrized
having never had any experience with ultralight rifles and reading about all these special techniques needed to make them shoot accurately and consistantly how do they perform being shot prone with attached bipod?


Not sure there are "special" techniques, rather they just respond better to being supported. I only have a limited experience shooting my Montana off a bipod. That was off a bench vice prone, but it didn't shoot that well. If I gripped the forend it may shoot just fine. Don't recall if I've ever tried that. It wants to kick the front up, a lot. In contrast, my 26" heavy barreled .308 Win requires no contact on the forend and shoots real well.

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I use a typical leather sand bag front rest, but rest the rifle on the bag under the chamber. This technique works with a solid grip or under the butt stock with the off hand.

My Montana 84M in 308 Win shot surprisingly well from a bipod. Haven't tried the 84Ls from a bipod yet.


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was just curious. ill stick to my big heavy rifles. no muss no fuss. when and if i ever get too weak or lazy to pack a gun built my way into the field ill revisit the lightweight rifle thingy


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Originally Posted by Westernmassman
Slowly getting the components together to shoot my new to me 7/08 NULA. I have never shot such a light rifle from the bench to develope handloads. For my other hunting rifles (7.5-9#) I use a couple of kneeling bags under the forend with a rear bag.
I know the NULA has a reputation of great accuracy and would like to wring out the best in this rifle. Any suggestions? Thanks


Light rigs will often have enough muzzle jump to mess up consistency if such muzzle jump isn't controlled somehow.

At least with my Montanas, it's worse off a real hard bag. The towel deal works, but I still hold the forend to control muzzle jump - for a couple of reasons.

First, it's what works.

Second, it's how I will shoot it from various field positions when I hunt - and that's my main use for a rifle.

I want consistency - what works in load work-up & sight in needs to go to the same POI from field positions when I hunt. A firm (but not deathlike) grip on the forearm works on lightweight rifles for such purposes, IME.

As far as bench technique, I'll add that a front bag as far back toward the action as comfortable seems to work best. Also, be really aware of where your pistol grip and sling swivels are in relation to your bags. It's easy for them to recoil into the bags, which gives inconsistent results.

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Originally Posted by prm
Then simply grab as if shooting offhand and hold with a firm, but not too tight, grip. I have to hold the forend to get any kind of groups.


Originally Posted by DJTex
Light rigs will often have enough muzzle jump to mess up consistency if such muzzle jump isn't controlled somehow.

... but I still hold the forend to control muzzle jump - for a couple of reasons.

First, it's what works.

Second, it's how I will shoot it from various field positions when I hunt - and that's my main use for a rifle.

I want consistency - what works in load work-up & sight in needs to go to the same POI from field positions when I hunt. A firm (but not deathlike) grip on the forearm works on lightweight rifles for such purposes, IME.


Agreed on the stuff above.

My experience has always been that lightweight rigs respond best to being held and controlled.

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Well here's a "special trick" that you can use when shooting from bags. To fire the rifle, place your trigger finger on the trigger and your thumb behind the triggerguard, then "pinch" the trigger. When I use this technique, as opposed to holding the pistolgrip with the trigger hand, the rifle does not move as much in reaction to trigger pressure and letoff. This results in better groups.

Of course, the best method for reducing movement due to trigger action is to have a gunsmith adjust the trigger. This includes lightening pull weight, limiting sear engagement, and limiting overtravel. But like most things in life, it's easy to go overboard with trigger adjustments.



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Originally Posted by Big_Redhead
Well here's a "special trick" that you can use when shooting from bags. To fire the rifle, place your trigger finger on the trigger and your thumb behind the triggerguard, then "pinch" the trigger. When I use this technique, as opposed to holding the pistolgrip with the trigger hand, the rifle does not move as much in reaction to trigger pressure and letoff. This results in better groups.


Any other "secrets" you'd care to let us in on?

Let us know how your "special trick" works with ultra lightweight rifles some time... whistle

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I just told you.


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I have a Nula 7mm-08 and a Montana .338Fed. The Nula shoots great without any special technique. Sometimes it shoots scary great and sometimes just great, but as of yet never bad. When I talked to Mr. Forbes I asked about shooting it from the bench and if I should hold the forend. He said you can, and if so, do it with a light hold, but just make sure you duplicate it as best as possible with each shot.

The days that for whatever reason it seems to be rock solid with a light hold are usually the days it shoots best. I seriously doubt that your Nula 7mm-08 will require anything all that special to make it shoot great if you already have a sound technique. There just isn't that much muzzle jump in a Nula 7mm-08.

The Kimber .338Fed is a different animal and will bite me if I don't pay attention. Thus I use a firmer grip which makes consistency from the bench more difficult. From field positions it still hits targets as good as I can shoot it, so I don't give it much thought.

Last edited by battue; 04/07/12.

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Both of my Montanas shoot sub-MOA off the bench with the forend supported off a standard Caldwell tripod with the leather bag with a folded leather glove covering it (four soft layers of leather or more). I locate the rest well behind the front swivel but ahead of the chamber. I grip the forend behind the rest and use the bunny eared leather bag under the butt stock.

The 7-08 and the .338 Federal both shoot about the same and are capable of good accuracy with the loads that shoot best.

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Originally Posted by ColdBore
Originally Posted by prm
Then simply grab as if shooting offhand and hold with a firm, but not too tight, grip. I have to hold the forend to get any kind of groups.


Originally Posted by DJTex
Light rigs will often have enough muzzle jump to mess up consistency if such muzzle jump isn't controlled somehow.

... but I still hold the forend to control muzzle jump - for a couple of reasons.

First, it's what works.

Second, it's how I will shoot it from various field positions when I hunt - and that's my main use for a rifle.

I want consistency - what works in load work-up & sight in needs to go to the same POI from field positions when I hunt. A firm (but not deathlike) grip on the forearm works on lightweight rifles for such purposes, IME.


Agreed on the stuff above.

My experience has always been that lightweight rigs respond best to being held and controlled.


Agreed.


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x3...plus I really focus on maintaining consistency of pressure of buttstock on shoulder and minimal torque on the pistol grip duting the trigger squeeze. Shooting light rifles can definitely teach some lessons. Makes me wonder how many times I concluded a load was sub-par when it was really inconsistent form.

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I close my eyes and flinch.

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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
I close my eyes and flinch.


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