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#6438776 04/24/12
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I'm looking for a good manual powder scale for a beginner (me). Any recommendations? The Lee Saftey scale received mixed reviews. Guys either hated or loved it. Thanks Marty

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A used RCBS 5-10 or 10-10.


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I bought a Redding scale. The RCBS scales nsaqam mentioned are good too. I can't say yea or nay on the Lee scale.

Last edited by Dave_in_WV; 04/24/12.

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For a beginner or for a seasoned reloader, the RCBS Model 1010 is what I use and is my reco to you. NIB, they are about $150.00 or so. I haven`t read any mixed reviews on this scale. All were excellent.

After my experience with a digital, my powder throw, trickler and the 1010 scale are all I need and want.







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I'm a rank amatuer as well.

I got a Dillon Eliminator. Its a nice three tare scale that only runs about $70 if I remeber right.



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The 5-10 is just like the 10-10 but with a 500 grain capacity as opposed to 1000 grain capacity.
You can find used 5-10's all day for ~$40.

That said, I used a Lee SS for many years with complete reliability.


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You may hear from guys who think a scale needs to weigh a gnat's ear wax to be good enough for reloading. When they say that, just nod, smile, and walk politely away.

Unless damaged, ANY beam scale sold for reloading is more than good enough, more than accurate enough, and more than affordable enough. Likewise, digital scales sold by reloading companies for reloading are just fine. (Generic hardware store Chinese digital scales should be rigorously avoided.)

If you buy a used scale and find that it is damaged (being dropped is the #1 reason) you can probably get it completely refurbished by the maker - often at no cost. Nor do you need expensive check weights. Pick one brand name match bullet from a box, and use that as your permanent check weight. I have a .224 52-gr bullet that I have kept in a 35mm film canister for more than 40 years. It's my beam scale check weight, and I have never lost any sleep because it isn't a "laboratory grade" item.


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Buy the Dillon and never look back


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I started with the Lee scale included as part of the kit I received as a gift, I replaced it with a Pact digital a year or two later. I needed to send the Pact in for service so I bought a Lyman D5 (Ohaus) off Fleabay, the same Ohaus scale re-badged by RCBS as the 505. I decided to keep it for backup but replaced it with the Lyman M5, the Ohaus rebadged as the RCBS 10-10

All the scales mentioned above will work just fine, I do however, really like the M5 that includes a check weight and cover that keeps everything protected when not in use.


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'The Lee Saftey scale received mixed reviews. Guys either hated or loved it. Thanks Marty"

Lee's Safety Scale isn't my favorite but, as the good reviews confirm, it works fine; it's very accurate and very sensitive. The reason you see "mixed" reports is because it's very light and some people are such clusmy klutzes they can't help knocking it around.

It's a mistake to put any beam scale down on the bench top. Put it on a sturdy shelf or box so it's about chin to nose high and the acale will suddenly become very easy to read and fast to use.

The Dillon (Ohaus) beam scale is excellant and sells at a good price.


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Originally Posted by RockyRaab
You may hear from guys who think a scale needs to weigh a gnat's ear wax to be good enough for reloading. When they say that, just nod, smile, and walk politely away.

Unless damaged, ANY beam scale sold for reloading is more than good enough, more than accurate enough, and more than affordable enough. Likewise, digital scales sold by reloading companies for reloading are just fine. (Generic hardware store Chinese digital scales should be rigorously avoided.)

If you buy a used scale and find that it is damaged (being dropped is the #1 reason) you can probably get it completely refurbished by the maker - often at no cost. Nor do you need expensive check weights. Pick one brand name match bullet from a box, and use that as your permanent check weight. I have a .224 52-gr bullet that I have kept in a 35mm film canister for more than 40 years. It's my beam scale check weight, and I have never lost any sleep because it isn't a "laboratory grade" item.


Been using a bullet to weigh instead of calibrating all the time for a long while works great.

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Believe it or no, I'd just go digital via the RCBS partner I think it's called. I've had mine for about 10 years and totally love it!

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Still using my RCBS 5-10 I bought in 1977. I believe the 10-10 is quite similar so that would be my pick.

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Originally Posted by Tony
Still using my RCBS 5-10 I bought in 1977. I believe the 10-10 is quite similar so that would be my pick.
............35 years old?....Yep. Balance beamed scales last and last. No electronic malfunctions to ever worry about and are more trustworthy. They don`t take up alot of bench space and can be easily stored away on a shelf.


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On the other hand, digitals take up even less bench space, tell you when they are malfunctioning - and you can't EVER get a poise weight in the wrong notch.

I did that once with a balance beam. Luckily I caught it, but only after loading 50 rounds of ammo with ten grain overcharges in every last one.


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Originally Posted by RockyRaab
On the other hand, digitals take up even less bench space, tell you when they are malfunctioning - and you can't EVER get a poise weight in the wrong notch.

I did that once with a balance beam. Luckily I caught it, but only after loading 50 rounds of ammo with ten grain overcharges in every last one.
..........On the other hand, space savings differences depends on the size of the digital itself. There are larger ones.

On the other hand too, because the digitals do tell you when they are malfunctioning, means they can and do malfunction.

On the other hand still, who is responsible for making sure that a balance beam scale is set up on the correct poise weight notch?

Digital vs balance beam scales debates can go both ways. I`ll take a good balance beamed scale every time. When I set up the desired powder charge weight, that is the powder weight going into each casing. And unlike a digital scale, once the balance beamed scale is set up properly for a reloading session, it doesn`t require a re-zero or a re-check until the charge values are changed.

And most who use a digital scale, might also have a good balance beam scale handy to "re-check" the accuracy of their digitals?

Sticking with my Model 1010.


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Oh, both types have strong and weak points. I've never said otherwise. You were giving the negatives about digitals, and so I'm giving the positives.

Since you've given the positives of beams, I'll give the negatives. In addition to the poise notch errors I mentioned above, beam scales are subject to dirt in the bearings, are thrown off by static electricity, get bent beams, suffer from parallax reading errors, and can only be used with the supplied pan.

Pick the scale you like. As I've consistently said, they're all more than good enough for reloading.


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Like with anything, proper care, proper usage, proper handling (making sure the beams don`t somehow get bent), including proper storage to eliminate as much dust or dirt from the bearings as possible, is necessary for any beamed scale.

That also includes, not losing the supplied pan?...LOL! RCBS I`m sure, can always send one should I lose it.

Parallax reading errors? Well not with me anyway....LOL!

Pros and cons to both scales. Still prefer the older school method of the balance beam.


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I prefer to use either scale to set my Redding BR-30 and go from there. grin

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