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Originally Posted by rj308
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I do not see how the magazine could have caused the crack in the stock from recoil. When the rifle recoils, the magazine will try to go forward, not back. Perhaps the inletting of the wood on the sides of the action between the mag box and trigger area was a bit narrow. I don't know, but surely it was not from the mag box coming back from recoil. Just say'n. RJ


Paraphrasing Jack Lott: under recoil, the wood on either side of the magazine box bow out momentarily. The temporary spreading of the stock wood around the magazine box is a primary contributor to splits of the wood behind the recoil lug, the wood web between the magazine and trigger inlet and the wrist behind the receiver tang.

rj308 has a point.


Last edited by carbon12; 04/23/12. Reason: uuurp
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Originally Posted by dclayton
Re action: it seems the consensus is definitely CRF: Win 70, Ruger 77, FN Mauser 98, Kimber 84/Montana.

Shootem, your point about 98 parts is well-taken, and it's crossed my mind as well. Does anyone have any first-hand experience about the worldwide availability (or non-availability) or parts for the Mauser 98 or the other CRFs mentioned here? We're blessed here in the US to have everything readily available, but that isn't true everywhere! The Ruger 77 and Mauser 98s (usually) have the advantage of being a bit less expensive, but I guess they're all pretty close (minus Kimber), especially if I buy used. They're all great rifles, and so for me the parts availability is key. Ditto customer support.


I'm a bit late to the party here, so-to-speak and I haven't finished reading the thread after your quoted post above, so forgive me if this is a repeat. I have a Ruger M77 Hawkeye in 22-250. It's my predator rifle, and it is built like a tank. I can't imagine it ever breaking, but if I were in your shoes I would buy one in 30-06, stainless and do some research on any history of failures with the rifle. If there is a weak point, you'll be able to find info on that, then you could buy the parts in advance and carry them with you. That way if you're in some part of the world where obtaining parts would be difficult, you would already have what you need to repair the rifle and continue hunting.

Another vote for the cerakote also - With that coating, the gun will last longer than you! I happen to know of someone who could handle the cerakote for you too. Shoot me a PM if you decide to go that route.

Edit: I've read a bit more now and see that you managed to find a bargain M98 30-06, It doesn't look like a bargain rifle though! Very handsome! I've always liked the look of nice wood and blued rifles. With the blued finish, some kind of coating would certainly help keep it in top shape for many years. Cerakote!

Last edited by AlaskanMatt; 04/23/12.

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Yes. If you find yourself with a broken gun in the far flung Isles of Langerhan, you may not find any gun parts. But, I think you are more likely to find parts for the Mauser there, than for most other makes of firearms.

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Originally Posted by rj308
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I do not see how the magazine could have caused the crack in the stock from recoil. When the rifle recoils, the magazine will try to go forward, not back. Perhaps the inletting of the wood on the sides of the action between the mag box and trigger area was a bit narrow. I don't know, but surely it was not from the mag box coming back from recoil. Just say'n. RJ


The CONTENTS of the magazine, not being closely fitted inside the magazine, move forward. The magazine itself, especially on a Mauser which has a magazine which is very tightly fitted to the action, tries to move to the rear with the action on recoil.


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Thanks for the input re. the bases--great! And that is also my understanding regarding the magazine (based esp. on conversation with safariman)--that is, it does move back with the action because of its tight fit...


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I'd go with iron sights, no scope. Go with a cheap ex-military rifle and caliber in a real beater rifle, bolt action of course. The uglier it is, and the less valuable it is, the less likely it is to get stolen and/or you getting shot over it . The cheaper it is, the less you will care if it stolen confiscated or if you have to dump it, or bury it, sink it in a river, or whatever. Go with a 7.62X39mm, a military round that is used all over the world so you can get ammo anywhere. You may have better luck buying what you need once you get to your first assignment. Good luck, God's speed and be safe. Thanks for devoting your time, and the risks taken, to spreading God's word to those who do not know his grace or have him in their heart.


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Dclayton bought an inexpensive rifle already, and it's a good one chambered for an ex-militery cartridge, the evergreen .30-06.


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Nsaqam's right, the deal is done! But I did go with iron sights and a military action & chambering. The rifle is, unfortunately, awfully pretty, but it's probably nothing that a few years in my possession can't fix! grin In any case, thank you for your kind words, redfoxx--if you would, please remember me in your prayers...(I can always use them!)


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Just another update, gents.

I'm getting all set to bed that bolt into the stock (but haven't received the bedding kit yet), and am waiting on the bases so that it's possible to mount that Leupy, so there's not that much to do just now.

There are only a couple of other action items I could think of. One is the question of coating the rifle (cerakote, parkerize, etc.). Since the blueing on the rifle is in good shape, if well taken care of it should be fine, but from the very beginning a lot of guys argued for cerakote, and after talking to a bunch of you it seems clear that it will be more durable for a longer time with some kind of coating.

The other major improvement that could be done is installing a 3-position safety. A couple guys recommended that highly to me, saying that the factory safety on the Zastava is somewhat flimsy (I've noticed that a little bit). And one reliable source (Safariman) said he had had them fail, and that for the long term (which I definitely care about) the 3-position safety is much more reliable. However, that is a pretty expensive proposition.

I figured that these two would have to wait for a while. Especially since even if I could do the coating sooner, the safeties often come in the white, and so it would probably make sense to do them together. However, I did still decide to contact a couple of people to at least see how much it would actually cost, since without a quote it's hard to plan!

One of the guys I contacted was here on the 'fire--Corelokt, who I had noticed before was a gunsmith and also does coatings (www.truedblued.com), and who conveniently lives in New York. I asked him about prices, and he sort of blew me out of the water! He saw this thread, and he said he�d install a 3-position safety, cerakote it, bed the barreled action, mount the scope, & ultra-bore coat the barrel--for $100!

That's as though he said he would do the cerakote for 20% off, and do all the rest of the work for free! (I just have to get him the safety & pay shipping if necessary). He�s in NY State, pretty near my parents� place, too, so there are no FFL costs, and I may be able to just drop it off to avoid shipping. I just spoke with a couple of benefactors who had said they�d help out with this project, and they offered to buy the safety and have that work done. Amazing!

So it looks as though the rifle is going to be pretty darn squared away by the time I get out of the seminary.

I�m going to deal with the crack in the stock and put in that bolt this week, and then after that I guess I�ll be off the hook, courtesy of Corelokt! Although it's funny, I've been so fired up to do that bedding job that I may just have to do one for my dad or someone else anyway... grin


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Gentlemen, I agree that if the magazine is tightly fitted to the action, the magazine will come back with the action on recoil. However, when the contents of the magazine tend to stay at rest (Newtons law), during recoil, they will contact the front of the magazine and try to drive it FORWARD not backward.

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The link below will take you to a product developed by the cerracoat folks that would be cheaper than having it coated. Many folks here that have used it give it good reviews. And it will retain the look of the bluing you have if that is important to you. Just some FYI...

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/cata...;osCsid=c8eaec7888b6ad20e2c8943aabbb3fc2

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Originally Posted by dclayton
Just another update, gents.

I'm getting all set to bed that bolt into the stock (but haven't received the bedding kit yet), and am waiting on the bases so that it's possible to mount that Leupy, so there's not that much to do just now.

There are only a couple of other action items I could think of. One is the question of coating the rifle (cerakote, parkerize, etc.). Since the blueing on the rifle is in good shape, if well taken care of it should be fine, but from the very beginning a lot of guys argued for cerakote, and after talking to a bunch of you it seems clear that it will be more durable for a longer time with some kind of coating.

The other major improvement that could be done is installing a 3-position safety. A couple guys recommended that highly to me, saying that the factory safety on the Zastava is somewhat flimsy (I've noticed that a little bit). And one reliable source (Safariman) said he had had them fail, and that for the long term (which I definitely care about) the 3-position safety is much more reliable. However, that is a pretty expensive proposition.

I figured that these two would have to wait for a while. Especially since even if I could do the coating sooner, the safeties often come in the white, and so it would probably make sense to do them together. However, I did still decide to contact a couple of people to at least see how much it would actually cost, since without a quote it's hard to plan!

One of the guys I contacted was here on the 'fire--Corelokt, who I had noticed before was a gunsmith and also does coatings (www.truedblued.com), and who conveniently lives in New York. I asked him about prices, and he sort of blew me out of the water! He saw this thread, and he said he�d install a 3-position safety, cerakote it, bed the barreled action, mount the scope, & ultra-bore coat the barrel--for $100!

That's as though he said he would do the cerakote for 20% off, and do all the rest of the work for free! (I just have to get him the safety & pay shipping if necessary). He�s in NY State, pretty near my parents� place, too, so there are no FFL costs, and I may be able to just drop it off to avoid shipping. I just spoke with a couple of benefactors who had said they�d help out with this project, and they offered to buy the safety and have that work done. Amazing!

So it looks as though the rifle is going to be pretty darn squared away by the time I get out of the seminary.

I�m going to deal with the crack in the stock and put in that bolt this week, and then after that I guess I�ll be off the hook, courtesy of Corelokt! Although it's funny, I've been so fired up to do that bedding job that I may just have to do one for my dad or someone else anyway... grin


Outstanding news! Thank you to those who are helping to get this rifle into shape - it's going to be put to good use by a very deserving hunter!


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Western hemisphere: 30-30 Winchester in one of the Marlin SS/laminate wood w/ receiver sight. Ferget about the scope.

Other side of the world: 7x57 bolt, receiver sight, scratch the scope.


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Originally Posted by rj308
Gentlemen, I agree that if the magazine is tightly fitted to the action, the magazine will come back with the action on recoil. However, when the contents of the magazine tend to stay at rest (Newtons law), during recoil, they will contact the front of the magazine and try to drive it FORWARD not backward.


The magazine on a Mauser is built into the floorplate, which is then butted into the recoil lug. If the gun is poorly bedded and/or the magazine does not have sufficient room, there is direct transmission of recoil energy into the stock at point other than the recoil lug. This is far more significant than the inertial forces you are referring to.

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With regard to your comments on trigger operation; the sear adjustment on the Mark X trigger can be adjusted to critical mass. I have proven this in a scientific experiment with a Mark X 25-06 residing in my safe. The result I achieved was pure serendipity. With the rifle unloaded and after adjusting the sear, take-up, and overtravel to preferred state I just pulled hard on the trigger to see if it would go bang with the safety "ON". It did not. However the mechanics of the action locked up. The safety would not reset and the bolt would not open. This was a real learning experience. Experience as you probably know is something you don't get until right after you need it the most. When I finally jiggled and cajoled the rifle into action the firing pin released. Had I conducted this scientific experiment in a tree stand with a loaded rifle the result would have been quite interesting. Most probably the rifle would have been safe to use as adjusted if I simply remembered to not "test" the trigger with the safety on. But probably is a nasty world when used to describe firearm operation. I readjusted the sear, take-up and overtravel to a less optimal release but a much, much more safe one.

All this said to encourage you to test your trigger and safety. I have included a link to an online Mark X Op Manual which gives instructions for trigger adjustment on Pages 10 & 11. If your trigger needs adjustment and you are not comfortable with performing the actions described Do Not Attempt Them. The 3 components of trigger pull (creep, weight, and overtravel) are to a degree interrelated in the Mark X trigger as is the safety setting. When properly adjusted it is as safe as a sear blocking safety can be. The Timney replacement version adjusts in pretty much the same fashion. But when adjusted badly the result can be as 'safariman' related.

Mark X Op Manual CLICK IT

Last edited by shootem; 04/25/12.

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Thanks for the useful info, shootem--I'll definitely keep an eye out for that issue. I was thinking about working on the trigger this weekend, so I'll be keeping your input in mind...


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Alright gents,

I just figured I owed you all a quick update on where things stood with the "one rifle" project...

I spoke with Ed LaPour about the safety--he's clearly a really excellent gunsmith. (Thanks jkob and safariman for the recommendation.) Among other things, he said that he makes three different versions of the 3-position safety for Mauser 98s, because the thread pitch diameter varies significantly in different rifles produced by different manufacturers and even the same ones at different times. He said that with the lowest diameter the safety would definitely work, but at no extra charge if you ship him your bolt he'll measure it and send you the safety that perfectly fits your particular rifle, and which will give the smoothest operation, etc.--as far as I know, he's the only one who does that (i.e., either make three different versions of the safety or check your bolt for free), which is impressive.

In any case, I shipped Ed the bolt, and got word today that he sent both the bolt and the safety off to Giles (corelokt) who is doing the gunsmithing work. Incidentally, other than the conscientious work Ed LaPour does, I also have reason to be thankful to him because after he learned about what I was putting together, he had some very kind words for me and also gave a very generous discount on the safety!

I also sent the rifle (minus bolt), scope (thanks Steve), bases, and rings (thanks Dewey) to Giles, who will be doing a bunch of things. As I mentioned before, he'll be cerakoting the rifle (graphite black), coating the bore with ultra-bore, mounting the bases & scope, bedding the rifle, installing the safety, and polishing the trigger surfaces if necessary--thanks Giles!

Finally, John Chr. (seafire) PMed me and generously offered to get a Hogue overmolded stock (ghillie green), so that I have a heavy-duty rough weather stock to use--again, the generosity of the folks here at 24HCF is a remarkable thing!

So that's where things stand now: by the beginning of June I should have an uber-reliable, all-weather, go-anywhere-in-the-world rifle that will probably outlast me! Then I'll start load development. smile

More news as it develops...

Last edited by dclayton; 05/09/12.

"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14

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Well, it's been an absolute age since I gave an update (life has been crazy lately), but here is the latest. Corelokt was able to do the work on the rifle, and though it took him longer than he thought, I wasn't in any rush so it was fine. He got it to me in October--in time for deer season, when it was put to good use. grin He cerakoted it (graphite black, with gunmetal gray on the bolt), mounted the scope (and lapped the rings, etc.). He also installed, the Ed Lapour 3-position safety, tuned the trigger and repaired the crack inside the stock and rebedded it. Finally, he sent it back with a leather sling gratis! Wow...

The whole rifle looks really sharp, and shoots beautifully as well--here are a few quick pictures that I recently took to show you how it looks now... It looks awfully pretty in the wood stock, but the last thing I'm going to have to do is put on that indestructible Hogue stock that Seafire sent me. I figure I'll switch back and forth between them according to which would suits me better. One last time, I just want to thank all of you who helped me out with advice on this project (esp. Nsaqam and Safariman), and those who made actual donations--Gophergunner, Corelokt, Seafire, Ed Lapour, Kutenay, David Walter). Thank you--I can't tell you how grateful I am!

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Looks great and glad to see you back Padre!


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