Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Beginner questions

So this Spring I got a Model 99F in 300 from my dad. I'd prepared by going out and getting my firearm certificate and hunting course out of the way. I saved up my fired brass and now I'm figuring I might as well learn to reload.

I thought I'd start on the cheap despite the posts recently from folks who apparently have spent $10k+ on the hobby. I figure I just get a Lee 50th anniversary kit, Lee limited edition dies in 300 savage, a pound of IMR4064, a box of primers, some bullets and give it s shot.

That said, while I might be an idiot (just ask the wife), I'm not a complete idiot, so I figured why not ask folks who know more than I ever will about getting started. Is there anything I absolutely should buy that's not on the list? Are Hornady traditional FMJ bullets going to be fine for target shooting? Should I get some partitions for actual hunting? I've read a few beginner articles on the Internet so far as well as the mostly too in depth posts here on hand loading for long range shooting and have been reading this forum for a couple weeks now.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I think you'll be fine with that equipment, though may want a better scale. Unless those fmjs are really cheap, just go with basic hornady or speer for practice and medium game hunting. Partitions are great too, especially if you plan on shooting big stuff

I think you did the right thing. I'm not sure what all come's with the Lee kit. If there is no case trimmer, order one. The Lee trimmer is supposed to work well and is about as inexpensive as you can get. Also get a dial caliper. Easily fiond one for $20 or a bit under. Check Harbor Freight and I know Midway has them.

I already have a caliper set (digital, not dial). I also have a digital scale that claims it's accurate to 0.05g or 0.002oz, which I'd assume is fine for checking powder weight. FMJ's are really cheap ($31 Canadian for 100 compared to around $50 for 50 partitions). The Lee kit comes with:

Breech Lock Challenger Press & 1 Breech Lock quick-change bushings
Perfect Powder Measure
Lee Safety Scale
Powder Funnel
Case Preparation Tools: Cutter & lock stud
Lee chamfer tool
Tube of premium sizing lube
Small & large primer pocket-cleaning tool
Large & small Safety Prime.
I'd thought it came with the Lee reloading manual, but I might be wrong on that, in which case I should pick one up.

You will do fine with the Lee. As mentioned, I would go with some standard cup and core bullets as opposed to the fmjs.

Does the kit not come with a reloading book? If not, I'd get one and read it cover to cover. Lyman is a good one as is Hornady. I'd avoid fmjs unless you already have them. As far as your hunting ammo, I'd go with a flat based bullet. I assume you meant the rifle was a 300 savage. If so, with it's short neck, the flat based bullet will give you a better grip while not intruding into the body of the case.

I'll second or third the mention of Hornady 150 gr flat bases and the Lyman manual. I'd also suggest something besides IMR 4064. It's a big stick powder that doesn't flow well through powder measures and won't pack well into the relatively small 300 Savage case. I'd suggest IMR 4320, IMR 4895, or something similar in shape and size. TAC maybe, I think Steelhead runs that with 130 gr Barnes in the 300.

Dale

I'd also suggest the 150 hornady flat base interlock bullet for practice and also for hunting....They should be almost as cheap as the fmj..If you are going to be loading hornady bullets you should also purchase a hornady manual. I've ran IMR 4895, 4064 and varget in the 300 savage case with no problems...Good luck with it......

.002 ounce is .875 grain, and you need to get down to .1 grain.

Good to hear some specific, if contradictory advice. I'll start looking around for a better scale. I've been reading that others besides BSA had been loading imr 4064 in 300 savage with good results, and thought it might be a good start. I'm not sure what TAC is? I'd love to hear what people think of 130 gr. in the 300. I'm getting pretty stoked to get started with all this. I watched a couple of 'how to' videos on YouTube today that make it all look pretty simple as long as you take your time and double check you have everything correct (I mean for us beginners, that is!)

BSA: how big is the game you'd hunt with the 150 interlocks? I'd been thinking a bit heavier for Moose, possibly 165 or even 180 (but of course that's pretty much guessing on my part - I did read an article or two that suggested the heavier bullets would result in a better wound channel in larger animals). The 150 Federal off the shelf I took to bear camp did the job quite well for me, but that was young tender black bear under 150lbs.

I love Hornady bullets. The 150 or 165 flat base bullets are real standouts. My brother loaded the 165s in his Savage 99 simply because they were more accurate in that individual gun and they damaged less meat.

The Lee Powder measure is great with stick powder, but may bind with ball powder like TAC. If the 4064 doesn't meet expectations, try H4895. We had our best luck with it. 4064 metered like gravel in my Lyman 55, but the Lee Perfect did a lot better with it.

IMO, before you go off on a spending spree, I'd use the eq you've got and get comfortable with it. Then you'll have a better idea of what, if any, upgrades or changes you want to make.
FWIW, there's been a awful lot of good, accurate ammo loaded using the Lee dippers. until the arrival of small, battery powdered scales, the bench rest bunch used dippers to measure their charges or dumped straight from the measure. An awful lot of them still do. I watched a lady bench shooter load her ammo with a tupperware bowl of powder and a dipper. She'd dredge the dipper thru the powder, strike it off even with a credit card, and dump it in the case. She finished in the money.
Whether you're using a dipper or a powder measure, the thing you need to work on is the consistancy of your movements.
I've never killed a moose but I'm of the school to find one good load per rifle and use it on everything. If WT deer through moose are on your menu, I think I'd go with a good 165gr bullet.

YMMV

As far as your scale, I believe it measures in grams, not grains. Check it before you load, you don't want that kind of mistake.

I started with a LEE set. Its perfectly fine. When I got into reloading I did it to save money (and yes its a lot cheaper per round to load 50 rounds of Barnes TSX for a 270WSM than buying a box of 20). But the satisfactory of the quality of product I turn out for my rifles over what I purchase over the counter is much more gratifying. You'll see.




I feel a Leroy Jethro Gibbs moment coming on. SMACK!!!
I'm sure you're not an idiot but going around telling folks leads them to believe ... lets move on




All excellent questions
Items not on the list:
Calipers
Notebook / Journal system (see note below)
There are a few others but lets start with these

Hornady FMJ's?
I don't know about Hornady FMJ's but the first time I loaded Sierra FMJs I had horrible groups. I called Sierra (great bunch of folks by the way) and they admitted that their own product was difficult to work with because of its design. For plinking, I would go with an inexpensive cup-n-core. For practice, I would invest in a decent 22lr. Hunting ammo is too expensive for a lot of range time and a 22lr is an inexpensive way to practice our mechanics. You do need some practice time with your hunting ammo. For target \ competition shooting I would load something like an AMAX, MatchKing, Nosler Custom Competition, or Berger TVLD just to name a few. Your Mileage May Vary.

Partition's?
Are a proven hunting bullet. The only time I ever really steer folks away from a bullet is if it doesn't work with their gun, game or local restrictions.
i.e. I would steer you away from a 75gr Hornady AMAX bullet for use in a 1:14 twist 22-250; or a 220gr monometal for a Coues Whitetail; or a Berger 150gr HVLD out of a 30-06 around the Grand Canyon

Start a journal to record your loading and shooting data. Eventually, you may want to invest in a chronograph. I think its a great tool.

Group your brass into lots. Set a standard for yourself as to how many times you will reload a lot before you toss it into the recycle bin. Don't mix lots. Trust me the cost to replace an eye or digit is much more expensive than brass. Remember when we load ammunition we're essentially building a bomb.

SAFETY ABOVE ALL


Since you stated you will be reloading a 99, you'll want to full length size your brass for each reload. If you had a bolt action, I'd recommend a neck sizer and no crimp. I always full length size the first loading and neck size the next 4 reloads before I toss the brass.



SEE ... NOT AN IDIOT!!!

Have a great day!

HaYen

Thanks everyone for your great and informative responses! I'm getting pretty pumped to get out the credit card and put in an order.

You're really in for it now, bud. Once bitten, it gets better. Great and satisfying way to spent some time.

You ain't kidden.

I would just get a eletronic scale...

You can get them cheeply

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?&newcategorydimensionid=15179

or just use a beam scale

Snake