Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Clements trigger for Ruger No.1

I just ordered one for my 6.5x55. This will be my 1st Clements trigger and can't wait to try it out.

They are nice!....Tom

Got me a Clements trigger that's going in my #1 .25-06 in the mail yesterday. What a really NICE piece of hardware. Beautiful EDM work. Can't wait to get it in and the rest of the action slicked up good.

What's the going price for a Clements trigger?

$90 plus $5 shipping. Just got two of them.

This is important to note. I don't know how much bullshit I read -- and rest assured, it most certainly is BULLSHIT -- about how simply installing a trigger has changed someone's life, made them luckier with the ladies, made the air smell fresher, etc. In order to get the ACTUAL BENEFIT of a different trigger in a No. 1 -- or any rifle -- an actual "trigger job" must be performed. This includes polishing the sear and hammer engagement surfaces, clipping coils from or replacing the hammer spring, etc. Simply replacing the trigger doesn't do a damned thing to address those areas of a trigger pull.

And yes, I know you understand this, Skeezix, I wanted to point this out to someone who might have the idea that they can get a good trigger via some kind of "shake 'n bake" process.

One can only assume you never had a Canjar single set trigger in any of your number ones ?

2.5 pounds inset, 2-3 ounces set. Actions (several) as issued. Fine for good weather shooting.

In most rifles, trigger jobs are a waste of time. The best, most reliable, foolproof triggers ever made for hunting were the 1903 National Match Springfield, commercial German pre war Mausers (two stage), followed by the New Haven design Model 70 (single stage).

These two will stand up to conditions that would kill most other triggers while still providing excellent performance.

One can only conclude you're a f*cking moron. Anyone who makes statements like "trigger jobs are a waste of time" doesn't have a clue and couldn't buy a clue even if their lives depended on it. Your post is nothing more than barely regurgitated HORSESHIT that you've obviously culled from an article or website of dubious value.

A lighter and crisper trigger pull is going to be accomplished via simple mechanics: reducing the amount of force required to disengage the hammer or striker from the sear by reducing spring tension and/or reducing the coefficient of friction on the sear engagement surface. PERIOD.

A trigger by itself does none of those things. A trigger can offer a "sexy" set feature or a specialized overtravel setting, but it isn't going to do a damned thing at reducing the amount of force necessary to reliably fire.

Your first two "examples" are rifles that were semi-custom in nature; they have excellent finishing, therefore they'd better have a damned good trigger pull right out of the box. The "New Haven" Model 70? Don't make me laugh. That "example" alone indicates you don't have a clue in hell. Some Model 70s had good triggers right off the bat and some didn't regardless of the amount of adjustment made. It was totally dependent on the condition of the sear engagement surfaces and springs. The last two Model 70s I bought had trigger and striker springs that could've been used for automobile suspensions and one had a sear engagement notch that required recutting because it was so damned wide.

Pull your head out of your ass before making a further reply.

I have found no better trigger for the #1 than Dave's with the first installed many years ago. Good to see he is running them again.

Have you ever used a Moyer trigger?

http://www.moyersgunrepair.com/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=57


Just curious.....

Absolute CRAP. We've discussed those [bleep] things in the past. They are nothing more than a very poor quality reproduction of the so-called three-screw Ruger trigger.

My experience has been that if I ignore Bricktop's advice it is at my own peril.

The messenger may come across as a bit strident( OK, a lot strident), but the message is consistently accurate.

Consider the number of posters who are frequently in error, but never in doubt. Bricktop is not one of them.

Listen and learn, and be grateful. I am.

Steve

Thank you for the kind words.

There are a lot of good trigger upgrades worth owning and adding to a No. 1. The Moyers is not one of them.

Regardless of what someone opts for the No. 1, be it a Canjar, a Kepplinger (those are absolute Cadillacs) or a Clements, you're not going to see any real benefits unless the guts to the fire control group are polished and fitted appropriately. (The as-issued and much maligned "two-screw" Ruger factory trigger is actually pretty damned good provided the sear and hammer have been polished correctly.) I've messed with these No. 1s for a little while now and the truth is there just aren't any shortcuts to a good trigger pull.

My uncle has a #1 in a Wasp. I played with it for a while. I think, I'm sure it is the factory trigger in it. I want to built a falling block. I want to build something like an 1885. I was in Moyers shop a couple of months ago and got the nickel tour. He is a nice man and seem very knowledgeable. I know a couple of guys that swear by his work, but they don�t have any of his products. I just picked up a lathe and I�m doing research for my falling block project. I don�t know that much about falling blocks. Most of my knowledge is for 1911�s, and bolt action rifles.

I live walking distance to Moyers shop. He milled a front sight slot on a 1911 slide for me. He did very good work. For what that is worth.

I have several Mausers with Kepplinger triggers. I prefer kepplingers to other triggers I have. They do cost considerably more than a timney triggers.

I'm sure he's a great human being, but his products suck.

Which seems to be a common denominator.

Very little in this context.

I have used a Moyers trigger on my IV for 10 years now. No complaints. No creep and about 2.5 lbs.

The perceived creep and weight have very little to do with the trigger itself and everything to do with the condition of the sear engagement surfaces. A properly tuned hammer and sear produces the same results as you've described with an as-issued Ruger factory trigger. There seems to be some sort of belief founded in nothing more than ignorance that simple installation of a trigger can remedy any trigger pull issues.

As has been posted inumerable times, the Moyers trigger is nothing more than a crude copy of the Ruger three-screw trigger. It features an adjustment screw for pull weight -- just like the currently manufactured Ruger factory trigger -- an overtravel adjustment -- just like on the currently manufactured Ruger factory trigger -- and a sear engagement adjustment -- a feature that can only be accessed by removing the butt stock on a No. 1. Ruger deemed it such a decidedly UN-useful feature that they discontinued it about 30 years ago.

i have tried the moyer years ago and it seemed to be a remake of the original ruger steel trigger with all of the adjustment screws if i recall correctly.
if you study the trigger design of the numer 1 &3 it becomes apparent that the "trigger" is just a lever to activate the linkage to take the force to the sear at the hammer engagement point. hope that makes sense.

Any body got a website for the clements trigger?

Google it.