Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Q for Mule Deer- Experience with Dyna Shield?

Mule Deer,
I know you have used the Dyna Bore Coat product, as have I.
I have been pleased with the results- cleanup is a snap now, with very little copper or powder fouling, in the 8 or so firearms I have now used it on.

The stuff comes packaged with Dyna Shield, which is to be applied to external surfaces, to repel rust, etc. I have applied it to a couple of rifles, but haven't really given them the acid test- long periods of exposure to moisture, high humidity, etc.

Have you used this stuff, and if so, is it worth the effort?

I am not Mule Deer, but I have been using this stuff in the bore and on the outside of the guns as well. It does work really well. Nothing sticks to the gun...snow, ice, mud etc. i use it on knife bldes that rust as well with great results.

I've used Dyna Shield just enough to find that it works as advertised. Great for guns and knives--anything made out of metal that might have stuff stick to it.

One of the uses the guy at Dynamic Finishes suggested was on fishing rod guides for angling in cold weather, when ice tends to build up on the guides. I used to flyfish a lot in winter here, and that was one of the problems, especially with flyline. Coated the guides and the icing problem went away!

Can't remember if I read it on their website or just from having a conversation with someone from the company, but they said not to use it on knives that would cut food.

Found it. It was an email from "Jason"...

Hi Roy,

DGS is a ceramic solution with polymers that I wouldn't trust in using for culinary. You were the first person contacting us in regards to this matter. I have always stated about the knives not being in use because it would wear off quicker than on a gun. We have done a lot of Museum work where we use DGS to preserve knives, guns, helmets, etc.

I haven't heard anyone talking about this on the forums. I know DGS is being used on lures, arrows and a few other innovative uses, but nothing in the culinary.

Well check out FrogLube since you know it is safe to digest, ingest and use as lip balm lol. Try DGS on one of your guns, I know you will be shocked how easy it will be to clean the outside of it. Just simply wipe down with a cotton towel.


Let me know if I can do anything else for you.



Good Shooting,



Jason Lumetta

ExtremeGunCare

It's a hard, ceramic coating. It's not going to come off in your food. Doug Burche and I both have used it on a bunch of knives that are used to cut meat

BTW, it works as advertised with regards to corrosion protection and reducing surface friction.

For ice fishing that alone is worth giving the stuff a try. The more mitten time for the hands the better.

Was just trying to help and pass along the info I was given. I only found out the warning because I was asking about warming steel (knife blades) thinking that warming the blades might help that DGS penetrate better. I originally used DGS on a 700 SS and I have to saying that the bolt seemed to slide quite a bit easier after applying it to the bolt lugs and using a long swab the coat the lug raceways.

Understood. I think that the answer you received was given based on little personal experience I was just offering the experience of myself and Doug.

It certainly does reduce the friction of whatever it goes on. Blood and guts come off of your knives easier, too

Does it have any effect on the heating of your barrel when firing/load developing at the range? Does the barrel heat up slower? Just curious, no big deal. I'm going to do a few rifles this evening based on the good stuff said about it here. Do you guys use the "1 size under caliber" bore mop, or just a loose fitting patch to apply the stuff?

This is the exterior stuff, not the bore coat they're talking about.

Ohhhhhhhhh........maybe somebody will have sympathy and answer my dumbazzz question anyway.

I know that MD said in the past that he applies that stuff with a bore mop.

JG,
Use the correct size bore mop to install the Bore Coat. We are updating our instructions so here is the update. Soak the mop in the Bore Coat then roll it around the rim of the bottle as you pull it out. You want it soaked but not dripping. Insert it into the chamber and work back and forth down the barrel in 3 to 4 inch strokes making 3 round trips. Put the firearm muzzle down to let the Bore Coat dry. After at least 4 hours cure time fire 5 to7 rounds to center and set the coating then clean the bore with a good copper solvent.
As to your second question the combination of Bore Coat and Gun Shield will cool the barrel faster. Ceramics spread heat across there surface so the whole barrel cools at once and there are no hot spots.

Thank you sir.

I've got another question. I applied the bore coat as per the instructions from Doug above. I went an shot about 10 rounds this morning after the application last night. It took about 3 copper solvent soaked patches and 7-8 dry patches and the last patch was very clean. It was about the same thing on both rifles. Is this normal for the first cleaning, and is this the way it should clean up every time I decide to clean the bore hereafter? Thanks again.

Could you explain this further? The engineer in me is not buying the heat transfer difference

Sounds about normal for the first cleaning. It will only get easier and easier, and require less and less patches.

A+ Excellent product. It works as advertised.

Great, thanks.