Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives po-boy's highboy.

I suppose you're going selectable lockers huh? Air or elect, cable..(ox)?

I'll likely go detroit locker or grizzly locker on my D60 rear and something like a detroit true trac up front.

The chit aint free though is it?

I tore into the second head tonight, it's going really good. Valves are old but they are still good. No bent or burnt ones so I'll be able to lap em all, new springs and seals and I'll be good to go.

Not for this one, I've seen it done before though.

Actually for a more enclosed carrier like on a ford 9" I like the "wheel weight locker"

Melt a bunch of wheel weights, stuff the axles into the spiders and pour the carrier full of lead. It locks it all up nice and tight withought the risk of busting those hardened spiders under stress where they are welded.

I am not sure what I will get. wont get an ARB unless I score a deal, to rich for my blood. I may just spool the front since I never put it in 4wheel untill I really need it. Maybe a mechanical locker for the rear or heavy duty posi Grizzly looks pretty good $485 for the 9inch 31 spline..

Never heard of the wheel weight locker. seems like soft lead would slowly work its way out?

You know how the stock (open diff) carriers where kind of cone shaped, they eclosed the spiders so you really couldn't see them?

The carrier had a hole in the side about the size of a quarter I think. Anyways, we'd plug the splined axles into the ends of the carrier, (plugged into the spiders) and rotate the carrier so that hole was to the top side. then we'd pour the lead inside the hole. the carrier was like a mold. The lead would flow in all around the spiders. I suppose they would work the lead loose eventually, it was more of a demo derby trick than anything.

Lasted better in derby cars than welded gears.

i could see with an enclosed carrier were it would last quite a while and the little bit off cushion the lead has would probably be nice

Yeah, I'll likely go with a combo of locker/limited slip or limited slip front and rear.

I have a trac-lok (spicer) in the front of my 70 F250 that I use for plowing snow. A lot of folks bad mouth the trac-lok but they have really improved them in recent years. So far, mine is working really well and it's made a hell of a difference in my snow plowing.

I finished lapping valves tonight on the spare heads that will go on the truck. I also cleaned all the gasket surfaces (head gasket, exhaust and intake)

I placed the order for all new valve springs, new stem seals, head gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets. I suppose I will put the heads back together early next week when I get the parts.

Between now and then I'll clean these bare heads really good with solvent, degrease and blow all the ports out, paint the heads and the valve covers so I'm ready to go when the parts come.

have you tried the hammered finish paints? They got a nice silver and a black I used them on my 350 in the blazer they are a paint and primer all surface that sticks real well and holds up good really dressed up the 350 for cheap. Did the stock valve covers in the silver hammer and the heads in the black hammered looked sweet.

Well, I run a powdercoating system, so I suppose I could do all kinds of neeto things (I have some of those hammer textures in powder too) but old clappy just isn't ready to get that fancy just yet.

Dave,
I have the project white high boy started.
I am putting on a flatbed.
Yes, I said it. Farmer flatbed.
I will be looking for a nice rust free box, while I wait,
I found a cheap flatbed (Knapheide). Full wood hauling racks too, if I so desire.
This will allow me to load 2 atvs on the PU and pull my camp trailer. I'm gonna see what I think of that.
Carb is overhauled. Runs good when the gas tank rust is not an issue. Carpet is leaving and going rubber mat.

Anyway, I have pulled the fuel tank and it's ugly.
I loaded it with rocks and got a cup o' rust.
Then 3/8" flat washers (2 lbs.) more rust.
Then I power washed it. It's alot better but.......
Have you done the tank coat route? or have a good idea?
Wrecking yard one?
Also, I am planning on 6" between the rear tire and bed bottom.
Is that enough for 1500 pounds of atv on the bed?
Thanks in advance.
Wageslave

How much you want for that box?

That's a keeper up in the rust belt lol!!

Check LMC truck for your tank, I don't think they are all that terrible, wanna say 150-ish for new???

That's a fantastic truck you've got there, very nice!

Well, continuing with my cheapo cylinder head refurb...

I cleaned the castings tonight after finishing with the last of the valve lapping. Used a toof brush and some gas to start and finished with a couple cans of engine degreaser and the garden hose to make sure I got the ports flushed out really good. Then I blew it all out with air and started reassembling the heads.

New high temp rubber umbrella style seals.



compressing the brand new springs...



Keepers in place.



Unload the springs, repeat 16 times



Mask off the gasket surfaces and blow on a little ford blue...



Fresh top end ready to go.



Pulled the truck into the shop and started tear down.

[img]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e...ds/Resampled_2012-07-31_20-41-34_592.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e...ds/Resampled_2012-07-31_20-41-52_503.jpg[/img]

Whoever left this grocery cart dragster in my shop... please come get it, it's kind of in the way...

[img]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e...ds/Resampled_2012-07-31_20-42-12_456.jpg[/img]

More tomorrow (I hope)

Yeah, I looked there and Dennis Carpenter. Rear tanks only, listed.
I may try a wrecking yard.

Trade the dragster for a primo white box?

Sweet truck wageslave. That thing is a beauty.

Wanna sell it?



I get the box too though, sorry ND.

What are you running for ET's with the cart?

Eastwood is big on rust treatment products, I'm sure they have tank kits. Is it a cab tank? or side mount frame tank?

God I hope it's not an in the cab tank, I just sent one to the scrapper this spring.

I'd trade the dragster cart but my buddy would be pizzed, it's his.

I have been asked that a few times.....
I'm holding strong.
If I don't find a nicer box, I will fix this one.
I have very mixed feelings about the flatbed install.
It's WAAYY cooler as a stock PU.
It may serve a purpose for now in local recreation use as a flatbed, but if/when I decide to go whole hog in a proper restore, it will be stock.

I've just come to accept the idea that all of my dentside erra fords will need new bedsides at $250 a side plus oversized shipping costs.

Yep, cab tank.
I found some tank coating at O' Reillys. Red stuff. $27 a quart.
Probably the best option for speedy repair.
Thanks for the help.
Bed should be semi-mounted tonight.
I take some pics after I see how it looks.
If I'm I may not.

Fix that one. 'snork'.

We'd pay good money up here for that sucker just the way she sits.