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Tried to remove a stuck case by tapping the bolt handle. A couple of not to heavy taps and the bolt handle separated from the body of the bolt, the soldering gave way. Action is Remington clone
How easy is it to repair? Does the bolt need to be re-blued afterwards? Should I have the bolt tapped and screwed to the bolt? Thank for your input.
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Action is Remington clone
Which Remington clone? Give this guy a call: http://www.accu-tig.com/
Lock, Stock and Barrel gunworks SLC, Ut USMC 69-73
"This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life."
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I agree with Malm. He has done several for me. Very reasonable, very quick, and excellent quality.
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Can/does he do 788 bolts "before" they break off?
Does anyone?
Some spelling errors can be corrected by a vowel movement. ~ MOLON LABE ~
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Got any ideas what might have caused the stuck case that helped faciitate a parted bolt handle? I have heard of that, but never seen it before. Were reloads involved?
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Several reasons, but several other ways to handle it rather than knocking the handle off. Not blaming the OP as several people have done it in the past.
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Got any ideas what might have caused the stuck case that helped faciitate a parted bolt handle? I have heard of that, but never seen it before. Were reloads involved? Basically a tight chamber, bolt was hard to close on some factory ammo, rub marks on the base and also the shoulder of the case. With a live round in the chamber thought nothing of giving the bolt a tap. Only properly sized hand loads from now on.
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Got any ideas what might have caused the stuck case that helped faciitate a parted bolt handle? I have heard of that, but never seen it before. Were reloads involved? Basically a tight chamber, bolt was hard to close on some factory ammo, rub marks on the base and also the shoulder of the case. With a live round in the chamber thought nothing of giving the bolt a tap. Only properly sized hand loads from now on. Understood that any manufactured product can fail, which Remington clone is your bolt?
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Every tight chamber I have had I take cleaning mop with some fine jewlers polish run into the chamber couple times makes them run smooth as butter!
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Basically a tight chamber, bolt was hard to close on some factory ammo, rub marks on the base and also the shoulder of the case. With a live round in the chamber thought nothing of giving the bolt a tap. Only properly sized hand loads from now on. Rub marks on the shoulder? I have lost count of the number of customers handloads I've seen where the shoulders are pushed out because they didn't have their seating die adjusted correctly causing difficulty when chambering. But, they force the bolt closed anyway. Here's a tip, if at ANYTIME you feel like you have to bear down on the bolt handle to chamber a round, STOP! Check your ammo, save a bolt handle.
Lock, Stock and Barrel gunworks SLC, Ut USMC 69-73
"This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life."
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Not that this is the case in this situation, but I have seen quite few broke handles from guys sticking a hot load and then simply having to hit/pound on the bolt handle because the primary extraction cam timing on the bolt handle was way off with the receiver cam surface.
I have seen remingtons with .040" plus gap beteween handle and receiver when closed in full battery. Couple this with a guy that has the receiver trued up and now you have even more gap, albeit not much more in most cases. You should have .010" or less for optimum extraction IMO.
Sending the bolt to Dan at accu-tig can remedy this easily.
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Does Dan need the action to properly set the timing on the bolt handle, or just the bolt?
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Does Dan need the action to properly set the timing on the bolt handle, or just the bolt? With my Remington 700, just the bolt body. Give him a call and he will tell you what you need to measure so that he can time the bolt handle correctly.
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You are correct carbon12.
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