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Joined: Jan 2009
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I'm seriously considering ordering & trying out the Trophy Ridge Rocket Meat Seeker 3 blade 2" cutting diameter. Can anybody shed some light and advise on these heads?


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As a nearly 40 year bow hunter I've seen a bunch of crap stuck on the business end of arrows. This wave of high dollar, complicated, questionable hunting heads leaves me shaking my head.

An answer to a non-existent problem.

Why were mechanical broadheads invented? Because some folks can't tune a bow, or shoot one well enough to get a true broadhead to shoot to the same point as a field tip.

I want a cut on contact, 2 or 3 blade head that is so sharp it scares you to handle it.

I still use Zwickey or Magnus 2 blade glue on heads. If I still shot higher poundage I would shoot nothing but 3 blade, 150 gr. SNUFFERS, or whatever the new manufacturer calls them.

I've used the G5 Montec 3 blades and they fly as good as any fixed blade. They just don't hold an edge like a welded head.

I have a wheel bow at 42 lbs.,due to some health issues, and it shoots Magnus 117 gr. to the same POI as my field points.

I don't have to worry about energy lost to opening a head, the weaker blades failing or a head opening at the wrong time.

Ever see a mechanical open coming off the bow? It can get real sporty, real quick.

Now, each of us hunts with what we feel is the best for us. For myself, I think more of my prey than to use a head that I will never fully trust.

I know, I know! Some will geet their panties in a twist over my opinions, shoot what you like, I do.

Last edited by TERRY8mm; 09/16/12. Reason: spell
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I have never liked expandable heads and use the NAP Thunderhead in my compounds and the Magnus Stinger 125 gr two blade in my Stick or longbow. Fixed heads work every time and you don't have to worry about them opening


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I shot an Axis buck with a 3-blade Rage when they first came out and was impressed with the performance but I have had bad luck with a few other brands of expandables .. I've used Wasp SST Hammers(fixed) for many years and I have had real good success with them but I've had a few bad experances with the 3-blade (fixed) Muzzy

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Back in the day I used Jackhammer and Vortex mechanicals.
Shot enough deer with them to see some of the most spectacular holes but a few deflection in a couple circumstances to not want to go that route this time around.
Wide cutting diameters,compound cutting angles and moving parts will deflect and have penetration issues in some instances a fixed won't.
IME, heavyish bone hit at steepish angles.
I saw it namely on steep downhill shots going through the ribs near where they meet the spine as they are heavy there.
YMMV.
YMMV


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Put a set of Slick Tricks on your arrows and proceed to collect the game you shoot them thru.
Easy.

I shoot only close to my stand but have a good friend who has the time and the spots to get in a lot of days in the tree. He has a lot of tags here in the NE area. They don't get away if you put one of the 4 blade fixed heads thu them.

But if you botch up the shot by shooting too far or some other reason(Too dark to see the brush) you own it and what happens next. No Broad Head can make up for that.



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Originally Posted by stalkingbear
I'm seriously considering ordering & trying out the Trophy Ridge Rocket Meat Seeker 3 blade 2" cutting diameter. Can anybody shed some light and advise on these heads?


Not a huge fan, they are not a popular head, and getting Trophey Ridge replacement blades/parts can be a challenge. I shoot Rage and Slick tricks, both are good heads. I had tuning issues with the NAP Bloodrunners, similiar concept to the Meat Seekers, they probably won't group as well as your other options. I'd go with some of the heads/blades suggested above before the Trophey Ridge products.

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Why waste time and money? Buy your self a pack of Razor Tricks (my favorite) or Slick Tricks and be done with it. Screw on, go hunt, and thank us later.


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Probably a good thing the bows of yonder weren't set up with super light weight carbons and mechanical heads. What a disaster that would have been!

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I like the G5 Montec heads but I have not used a lot of different ones. I tried some of the replaceable blade heads but didn't like them, they fell apart.

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Dont have any experience with mechanical heads but, the G5 Striker Magnum broadhead in 125 gr weight gives 1.5" cutting diameter.

Have been using it for three years now and it is a rough sombitch on game, massive bleeding and superior penetration.

Gunner


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Originally Posted by Bob_B257
Put a set of Slick Tricks on your arrows and proceed to collect the game you shoot them thru.
Easy.

I shoot only close to my stand but have a good friend who has the time and the spots to get in a lot of days in the tree. He has a lot of tags here in the NE area. They don't get away if you put one of the 4 blade fixed heads thu them.

But if you botch up the shot by shooting too far or some other reason(Too dark to see the brush) you own it and what happens next. No Broad Head can make up for that.


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Slick Trick's RULE !


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A guy checked in a doe that got tangled up with a sidewinder(trophy ridge?). It looked like she had been shot by a muzzleloader; the exit wound was nearly the size of my fist. I don't shoot them, but I know what I'm buying if I change.

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Originally Posted by mule1
Slick Trick's RULE !


yeah they are. grin


Originally Posted by captain seafire
I replace valve cover gaskets every 50K, if they don't need them sooner...
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If you hunt in multiple States be sure you check the rules on mechanical broadheads. Where I live they have regulations about the size of mechanicals.

I have never used them. I grew up shooting a recurve with those old two blade broadheads and now shoot three blade 125 gr. with a compound. I see no reason to complicate the situation.

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I shoot 75 grain muzzys out of a 65 lb pse chaos. started on muzzys over 20 years ago, never had a problem. have used mechanicals in the 90's because I thought they solved a problem I didn't know I had. have since switched back to muzzy's and likely will never change again.


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Terry good post

Your BH should be considered part of a system and the intended game the big factor. There are many different theories but there are 2 undeniable factor that influence success;penetration and a through and through wound.

If you talk to battle ground docs the T and T is hardest to recover from and it's a direct result of max penetration. T and T gives you better blood trails too. Many heads inc mech heads will give you this most of the time with light game such as deer. Almost no mech heads will do this on elk. I've used up to 2" mech heads with good success but do not buy the big hole arguement.

So what gives you max penetration. Same style they have known for a 100yrs; tapered COC heads. Yeah, it's not fancy and you need to learn how to tune your bow to shoot them- many guys can't and settle for short heads or mech's- no sweat.

Of course you hear " shot selection" blah blah. I was hunting with an IBO world champ who missed and elk at 25 yards- We all sometimes miss. Show me a guy who hits every animal where he aims and I will show you a lying SOB!

An example; my buddy last week called a bull to 6 yes facing him. He decided to wait for it to turn (a mistake!) and shot the bull in the spine right above the guts-dropping him long enough to finish him off. The steel force phathead penetrated through the vertebrae and severed the spine. I haven't seen a sturdy enough mech head that could do that on an elk. He got lucky with the shot, sure, but most of the short chisel heads, mechs and many others don't penetrate enough to kill that bull. Btw, my buddy can shoot regular 4" groups at 60 yds all day long- easy, targets don't move. Consider putting a bit more weight in archery history than a fancy TV commercial

Last edited by B_Lance; 09/25/12. Reason: Add the sob part

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