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I bought a new No.1-A yesterday. I have a question about the safety button. The safety button has a slight U shape. When the safety is in the off position the tip of the safety button sits slightly above the bottom of the loading port. When I eject a round the brass hits the safety button and bounces back into the loading port. Last year I bought a No. 1-S which was made in 2000 and it did the same thing. Is this normal for a Ruger No.1?

My new 1-A is a 30-06 and shot very well today. I shot 4 groups with some 165 Hornady's and all groups were under an inch at 100 yards.

Last edited by KuduBull; 06/07/09.

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Originally Posted by KuduBull
When I eject a round the brass hits the safety button and bounces back into the loading port. Last year I bought a No. 1-S which was made in 2000 and it did the same thing. Is this normal for a Ruger No.1?
Yes. Two of my No. 1s do that and two do not. My 1977-vintage 1A in .270 WCF does this and my 1986-vintage 1A in 7x57mm absolutely launches brass. I haven't been concerned enough either way to investigate a remedy, though I suspect a small adjustment to the safety or modification to the safety button would eliminate any interference.


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I've noticed the safety on several newer #1's is sort of rocker shaped on the bottom instead of flat. Each end was raised about 0.040 from the receiver when the center was touching.

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Kudu,

This is one of the most annoying(to me) quirks of the No.1! Some folks like it, and that's cool too....to each, their own!

You can file down the safety, until it doesn't throw the brass back in the chamber. Just go very slowly! If you get carried away, you will expose the slot in the action, that the safety button passes through, and thus, provide a window for crud to enter the inner workings of your action. Be aware. A combination of filing down the tip of the safety button, combined with improving the fit of the safety button and action, may be a better alternative.

Then there is the option of recessing the safety, into the action. Unless you have the machinery and ability to do it yourself, it's a pretty spendy job, to have done.

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The ejector can be easily adjusted not to throw the case backward so hard. Then it doesn't bounce off the safety as hard either, so doesn't bounce back into the chamber.

In fact the ejector can be totally disabled, and the case will only be extracted enough to pull it out of the chamber.


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I had the ejector totally disabled so that it only extracts. This may make reloading a little slower but so far the game has not noticed the difference.

Now if I could find away quieten that annoying loud, game spooking, metallic click that the safety makes.

Last edited by cole_k; 06/08/09.
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I had a Ruger #1V in .22-250 and a #3 in .223 that were only used for target shooting and varmints. I liked that the safety stopped the brass. I adjusted the tension down so that it didn't throw the brass hard. Since I reload, that worked fine.I just pulled the fired case out and put it back into the box.

If I had a #1 in a big game caliber, I would modify the safety so the gun would toss the brass clear.

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Cole K,

Try this. Push DOWN on the safety and hold it down as you slide it forward slowly.

The click on my #!s is way less noticeable that way. I do a lot of 'still hunting' on the ground -- no blinds -- and with that technique I have never spooked a stalked deer using a #1 safety. I have scared the bejabbers out of quite a few with clumsy foot movement over noisy leaves etc....

Try it and let us know.

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Originally Posted by cole_k
I had the ejector totally disabled so that it only extracts. This may make reloading a little slower but so far the game has not noticed the difference.

Now if I could find away quieten that annoying loud, game spooking, metallic click that the safety makes.



'Course the deer don't notice the little bit of extra time it takes to reload, Cole... 'cause they're beyond noticing ANYTHING at that point. You outta know that #1 owners ONLY NEED one shot. That's why they use a single shot rifle, isn't it, Pard? grin grin grin grin


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So to answer my question, I guess it is normal to have the rocker shaped saftey button that catches the brass as it is ejected? I'd prefer to adjust the ejector to determine how far the brass is ejected, if at all, instead of the brass hitting the safety. Thanks everyone for your input.


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It�s the nature of the beast. The safety was better designed at one time. Oh Well!

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Originally Posted by KuduBull
So to answer my question, I guess it is normal to have the rocker shaped saftey button that catches the brass as it is ejected? I'd prefer to adjust the ejector to determine how far the brass is ejected, if at all, instead of the brass hitting the safety. Thanks everyone for your input.


Kudu. I've been hunting with the #1 rifles since 1975. At the range, the shell hittin the safety isn't all that big a deal, but on the hunt, can be and is a problem. simple fix: As you open the action tilt the rifle to the right, if you're right handed and to the left of left handed. However, I think tilting to the right even if left handed would work just as well. It doesn't take much to clear the safety doing it that way.
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Thanks PJGunner and MikinColo!! I was just courious if this was normal. I have been practicing at the range and tilting the rifle works. I love Figure 3!


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Look in your owners manual(or get one from Ruger if you don't have one), you can remove your fore end and adjust the amount of force with which the case is ejected, thereby stopping it from bouncing back into the chamber. Do you really think that you're going to remember to tilt the rifle when in the field after you've just taken a shot and might need another?

Last edited by youngdon; 06/30/09. Reason: additional info

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*Puts on Necromancer robes*

Looked at a Southport, CT manufactured No 1. the other day - SMOOTH and QUIET safety, and what-ho, top of safety switch ENDS about 1mm from end of the breech channel. The [SAFE] text alone is about 1/8" lower from the breech channel, and unless I'm mistaken, it seems like the entire tang itself is between 1/4 and 1/2" longer than my Newport, NH manufacture. Found ANOTHER Southport, same deal. All the other Newport rugers (Incl. Stainless) on the shelf were "interference" models (the tip of the tang safety would ride into the barrel channel).

Seems like a design problem that no-one ever pointed out to Ruger, thus they just kept building it. Also on mine, the safety tang switch alone rides about 1-1.5mm high off the receiver - whereas the Southbridge model it was flat flush...actually that was the story on both CT models I saw - NH models were all "proud".

I am getting some serious buyers remorse with this thing - it's pretty but useless as anything besides a bench rifle...which other guns do a better job at anyways. frown Glad it's 20rnds old and flawless still...

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Originally Posted by Shadow9
*Puts on Necromancer robes*

Looked at a Southport, CT manufactured No 1. the other day - SMOOTH and QUIET safety, and what-ho, top of safety switch ENDS about 1mm from end of the breech channel. The [SAFE] text alone is about 1/8" lower from the breech channel, and unless I'm mistaken, it seems like the entire tang itself is between 1/4 and 1/2" longer than my Newport, NH manufacture. Found ANOTHER Southport, same deal. All the other Newport rugers (Incl. Stainless) on the shelf were "interference" models (the tip of the tang safety would ride into the barrel channel).

Seems like a design problem that no-one ever pointed out to Ruger, thus they just kept building it. Also on mine, the safety tang switch alone rides about 1-1.5mm high off the receiver - whereas the Southbridge model it was flat flush...actually that was the story on both CT models I saw - NH models were all "proud".

I am getting some serious buyers remorse with this thing - it's pretty but useless as anything besides a bench rifle...which other guns do a better job at anyways. frown Glad it's 20rnds old and flawless still...
No. 1s were never manufactured in Southport, Connecticut, dummy. Newport, New Hampshire. Always. Leave three-year-old threads alone.


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AFAIK, Ruger has never fixed a prolem raised by consumers about the #1s. They do have better barrels and non-sloppy chambers now, but so do the rest of the Ruger line.

And they have had plenty of input over the years about problems like this one on sites like this.

The responsse has been regularly higher MSRPs for the same product.

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Quote
No. 1s were never manufactured in Southport, Connecticut, dummy. Newport, New Hampshire. Always. Leave three-year-old threads alone.


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Oh, and the thread...

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=132559

May not have been manufactured there, but it's different from the Rugers I've seen with "Newport" written atop the barrel. That is what I was referring to. Also, generally speaking the location written in these sorts of clauses often denotes the location of manufacture.

Pardon the confusion, Guru.

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Originally Posted by Shadow9
Quote
No. 1s were never manufactured in Southport, Connecticut, dummy. Newport, New Hampshire. Always. Leave three-year-old threads alone.


[Linked Image]

Oh, and the thread...

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=132559

May not have been manufactured there, but it's different from the Rugers I've seen with "Newport" written atop the barrel. That is what I was referring to. Also, generally speaking the location written in these sorts of clauses often denotes the location of manufacture.

Pardon the confusion, Guru.
Southport, Connecticut = corporate offices; Newport, New Hampshire = manufacturing facilities. Pull your head out of your ass.


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Originally Posted by safariman
I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person.

Originally Posted by Fireball2
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Shadow9 look up the serial number on your #1 in very early years of production ruger was out of southport before they expanded to Newport and Prescott so I would say your head isn't in your ass


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