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I am thinking of buying a 99 in either 300 savage or 30-30 strongly leaning towards the 300? I have seen a few locally in the 500-600 dollar range that need a bit of TLC, This will be a hunting and range gun. Any advice? One I have my eye on is a 300 take down but it needs a rear sight? Its barrel is tight but the receiver has been drilled and tapped no bases on it?
Any guidance on a 99 would be appreciated. Are rear sights available any function issues I should look for or avoid?

Thank you
carl

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I wouldn't settle for one that needs a lot of tlc (500-600), you should be able to get one ready to go shoot for that money. I would go with the .300 imo.

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texken
thank you I have also been wandering bout GB and have seen a few
on there also.

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Well the .30-30 ammo is less expensive. While the 300 Savage has more energy and shoots flatter. If your going to take shots out to 300 yds go for a 300 Savage.

If you can find yourself a "gray rat" 99 that shoots well you have a bargain and the best lever action rifle ever made.

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you should be able to find a pretty good premil F in 300 in that price range. Certaintly will find an EG in that range in 300 Savage.

About your caliber choice: You may not find 300 Savavge everywhere all the time. Something to think about if local supply is an issue for you now. Something to look into.


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Originally Posted by texken
I wouldn't settle for one that needs a lot of tlc (500-600), you should be able to get one ready to go shoot for that money. I would go with the .300 imo.


*********************************************

I agree with Texken...

For $500 and most certainly for $600-$650, you should be able to find a Model 99 "EG" in .300 Savage that is in 90% or better condition... a rifle to be proud of and that will shoot very accurately. You definitely should get a .300 Savage rather than a .30/30 because the .300 Savage is ballistically FAR superior.

Model 99s are "THE" most accurate lever action rifles ever made and should shoot 3-shot groups of less than one minute of angle (1 "minute-of-angle" = 1-inch at 100 yards) rivaling many good bolt-action rifles. Of course, this assumes you have a good scope (a 3x-9x 'scope or stronger) on your rifle. You can't shoot better than you can SEE!

The "99's" excellent quality, fine accuracy and outstanding reliability are well-known among those riflemen who know about such things.

If you don't hand-load, you might consider starting to do so since factory ammo is getting very expensive and you can load-your-own for about one-quarter of the cost of factory ammo plus you can "work up" a much more accurate, somewhat higher velocity load by hand-loading than any factory load will give you.

Keep your eyes open and keep looking around.. you're SURE to find a good Model 99 in the $500 to $650 price range. Some members have even found such good rifles in the $450-$600 price range. Prices vary considerably around the U.S.A.

Look at estate sales and in pawn shops. "Talk-it-up" among other shooters at the rifle range... tell 'em that you're looking for a Savage Model 99 in .300 Savage caliber which is in good condition... they're out there, you just need to FIND 'em!

Some members in this Forum may have a Model 99 they're willing to sell... so don't give up.

Good luck in your quest... and let us know when you find YOUR Model 99... smile


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Local shop here lists 6 99's right now at $500 or less in good to very good condition. They are out there!

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Thank you all, great info keep it up
I am leaning towards the 300sav. And yes I do reload. The info for a 99EG is great with so many different letter configurations I was unsure which model letter designation to pursue. These days I do not hunt as much as I used too but enjoy a nice smooth handling rifle The couple I handled the other day kind of swayed me to pursue a 99. Balanced and pointed well.
How difficult is it to find parts if there is a break down?
Do the 99s lend well to hard cast bullets?
Thanks
Carl

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300 sav should be a done-deal if you reload!!..even the US military considered it as the most versatile platform to develop a replacement for the 30-06 from. 30-30 probably did that too...just a century earlier.

EG's long barrel and solid frame take the accuracy prize over shorter take-down models every time.

These guys right here on this forum have enough knowledge and spare parts to keep 99's alive for several more generations.


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Originally Posted by gotcha

Do the 99s lend well to hard cast bullets?
Thanks
Carl


I have a 1930 "G" in .300 and it shoots cast better than the jacketed kind. Killed several deer with that combo.

Last edited by Joe; 10/17/12.

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EG's work just fine and have those classic 99 lines with schnabel tip. Handload up some Partitions and time to go..

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The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
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Some folks think that the EG's are only good enough for tomato sticks and since there were more 300 cal. EG's than any other caliber the collector value of such suffers. I happen to prefer the EG over the other models for its classic lines, and there was a reason for the popularity of the 300 Savage.

Tim



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Might want to put a 300 "F" to your shoulder to compare with the "EG" before you make the decision to purchase. I have both and find the "F" lighter and points better for me. Not mutch difference in the price all things being the same. GW


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IMO you can't beat a 300 Savage for any NoAm game under 250 yds...

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Originally Posted by oldtimer303
Might want to put a 300 "F" to your shoulder to compare with the "EG" before you make the decision to purchase. I have both and find the "F" lighter and points better for me. Not mutch difference in the price all things being the same. GW


GW....some might whine that the mighty .300 Savage is too much for the lighter weight "F" chassis....but we both know that to be a fallacy, now don't we! grin


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1) on take down rifles...make sure that the barrel screws down correctly. You will find some that have too much wear and turns past the lock up point.

2) drill and tapped rifles that are not factory may be set up for mounts that you can't find or will not line up correctly. Corrections can be expensive.

3) 99's with lettering on top of the receiver that are D&T'ed are not factory.

4) the "F's" referenced above are in the 758xxx and later serial range. All of this model is factory D&T'd.

5)EG's were not factory D&T'd till 1954. R's were D&T'd starting 1950.

6) R is the heaviest, F is a featherweight and the EG is in the middle.

7) post-WWII EG in .300 Sav is the most common version made.

Take your time and find one that you like. Enjoy the hunt! smile


Savage...never say "never".
Rick...

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RICK99
I will give you an "AMEN" on that posting for sure. grin GW


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Rick99
Thank you- I just printed that info up to have with me on my wanderings-I have a couple of local leads

Thanks again everyone for the info and recomendations.

Carl

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well I stopped at 2 LGS today, The fist no 99s. Back to the original shop that I found the first 300 take down, on closer inspection top of receiver chipped due to a buggered scope mount hole But The fellow there also showed me two nice 99s chambered in 308 these did not have the removable magazine. And a really nice 300eg that had been reblued (nice) But the price was steep

How are the 308s?
one had nice light wood kinda blondeish, D&T just a bit of blue wear on bottom of receiver had safety on lever, Lever had nice case color bore was clean no rust and wood near perfect, sights intact and weaver bases. Asking 500 OTD Is that a good price? Thought I could load the 308 light to 300 sav levels? Pie plate at 250 yds accuracey? Minute of Whitetail?

Thank you all for the help
Carl

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500 ain't bad for what you describe but cheaper is better. They do punish you at the bench after a bit with factory loads. Usually as accurate as any other 99.

Sounds like it might be an F model.


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