|
|
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2
New Member
|
OP
New Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2 |
I have a 99 that I received from my father. It appears to be a 54 manufacturer with the F on the lever boss. When it came into my possession the rear sight was not present, but it looks like it was factory drilled for scope bases.
I picked up the Weaver #14 and #19 bases. The rear base wasn't quite the perfect shape to mate with the rifle, but I was not surprised due to the compound curvature present there. The bases matched the screw holes well and the bases attached to the rifle just fine with no issues.
My issue showed up when I mounted a scope. It just didn't seem to line up correctly. When I removed the scope to take a look I first removed the front ring top. The scope popped up a bit. With the rear ring tight the scope was a good .150" above the bottom of the front ring. Good thing I was testing the mount using a cheapie Chinese scope with a broken reticle. I imagine that the scope and mounts both bent a little when I first tightened the out of whack system before I realized what was going on.
The bases just don't seem to be lined up right. I'm thinking that I must have a bad rear mount. Should I try a different Weaver rear base or will it be just a bad? Unfortunately, I'm a bit light on free cash at the moment so whatever solution I use will have to be relatively inexpensive.
Any suggestions?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 884
Campfire Regular
|
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 884 |
Cheapest way is to shim the base. You'll probably need longer screws too. Brownells has both.
Rich or poor, it pays to have money.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,399 Likes: 10
Campfire Kahuna
|
|
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,399 Likes: 10 |
I have a front weaver base that's been relieved, apparently for the same reason. I have no experience with doing that, but have you considered that option?
_______________________________________________________
An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
LOL
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12,736
Campfire Outfitter
|
|
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12,736 |
If I read correctly, the front base is too low.
I would examine the rear base and see if something is holding it up. If that's OK I would just shim the front and move on.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,399 Likes: 10
Campfire Kahuna
|
|
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 56,399 Likes: 10 |
If I read correctly, the front base is too low.
I would examine the rear base and see if something is holding it up. If that's OK I would just shim the front and move on. Right you are. I think I'd look at the fit on that rear base since OP says it doesn't mate up right anyway. Maybe it can be made to fit better and lowered at the same time??
_______________________________________________________
An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
LOL
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,614
Campfire Tracker
|
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,614 |
New Weavers are problem filled. Get some old Black and Yellow packaged ones.
Shew me thy ways, O LORD: teach me thy paths.
"there are few better cartridges on Earth than the 7 x 57mm Mauser"
"the .30 Springfield is light, accurate, penetrating, and has surprising stopping power"
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2
New Member
|
|
OP
New Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2 |
It may be a combination of front too low and the rear not pointing int he same direction. With the scope in the rear base it sure seems to point up. With both the front and back on tight it seems to point down. I've been playing with some shimming and it seems to make it somewhat better.
Right now I'm just eying it and it looks off. I'll have one of those friction fit in the muzzle laser boresighters in a couple of days to actually see how off it is.
Since these new aluminum Weaver bases only cost about $5 each, a little modification may be in order. I don't have a problem with screwing up a $5 item. First I'll see what I can do with some shimming.
Speaking of shimming, what is a good material that will not change dimensionally with heat or water? I've been using cardboard for my testing, but I have a feeling it's not necessarily the best material for the job. I've got some bulk automotive gasket material that might be better. I think that metal would be best and I might go that route after I have a decent solution.
Some of the older Weaver bases seem like nearly the best solution. Now to just find some...
A big thanks to everyone for the quick answers. This is a great site with a lot of knowledgeable members.
EDIT: A quick look at Gunbroker shows a few of the old yellow labeled rear bases. I may have the solution.
Last edited by cleonard; 11/06/12.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12,736
Campfire Outfitter
|
|
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12,736 |
Sheet brass is probably the best shim material but I've been known to whack up an aluminum can when necessity dictates.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,148
Campfire Tracker
|
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,148 |
It may be a combination of front too low and the rear not pointing int he same direction. With the scope in the rear base it sure seems to point up. With both the front and back on tight it seems to point down. I've been playing with some shimming and it seems to make it somewhat better.
Right now I'm just eying it and it looks off. I'll have one of those friction fit in the muzzle laser boresighters in a couple of days to actually see how off it is.
Since these new aluminum Weaver bases only cost about $5 each, a little modification may be in order. I don't have a problem with screwing up a $5 item. First I'll see what I can do with some shimming.
Speaking of shimming, what is a good material that will not change dimensionally with heat or water? I've been using cardboard for my testing, but I have a feeling it's not necessarily the best material for the job. I've got some bulk automotive gasket material that might be better. I think that metal would be best and I might go that route after I have a decent solution.
Some of the older Weaver bases seem like nearly the best solution. Now to just find some...
A big thanks to everyone for the quick answers. This is a great site with a lot of knowledgeable members.
EDIT: A quick look at Gunbroker shows a few of the old yellow labeled rear bases. I may have the solution.
you can buy shim mat. "brass sheets" from Brownells
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,148
Campfire Tracker
|
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,148 |
I have a 99 that I received from my father. It appears to be a 54 manufacturer with the F on the lever boss. When it came into my possession the rear sight was not present, but it looks like it was factory drilled for scope bases.
I picked up the Weaver #14 and #19 bases. The rear base wasn't quite the perfect shape to mate with the rifle, but I was not surprised due to the compound curvature present there. The bases matched the screw holes well and the bases attached to the rifle just fine with no issues.
My issue showed up when I mounted a scope. It just didn't seem to line up correctly. When I removed the scope to take a look I first removed the front ring top. The scope popped up a bit. With the rear ring tight the scope was a good .150" above the bottom of the front ring. Good thing I was testing the mount using a cheapie Chinese scope with a broken reticle. I imagine that the scope and mounts both bent a little when I first tightened the out of whack system before I realized what was going on.
The bases just don't seem to be lined up right. I'm thinking that I must have a bad rear mount. Should I try a different Weaver rear base or will it be just a bad? Unfortunately, I'm a bit light on free cash at the moment so whatever solution I use will have to be relatively inexpensive.
Any suggestions?
pm sent..easy fix
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 23
New Member
|
|
New Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 23 |
Speaking of shimming, what is a good material that will not change dimensionally with heat or water? I've been using cardboard for my testing, but I have a feeling it's not necessarily the best material for the job. I've got some bulk automotive gasket material that might be better. I think that metal would be best and I might go that route after I have a decent solution.
I would try an auto supply store or industrial supply house for some brass shim stock. Available in sheets of varying thicknesses (.005, .010 and so on) that can be cut easily with scissors.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 205
Campfire Member
|
|
Campfire Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 205 |
Will brass shims mess up bluing?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12,736
Campfire Outfitter
|
|
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12,736 |
I don't believe so. A little solvent should remove any trace of the brass. That's how I clean off a sight after drifting it out with a brass punch.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,148
Campfire Tracker
|
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,148 |
Will brass shims mess up bluing? no.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,916
Campfire Regular
|
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,916 |
Get a 1 piece Leupi. Line up problems solved.
Last edited by oldotter; 11/06/12.
"Its easier to fool people......Than convince them that they have been fooled." Mark Twain
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,350
Campfire Tracker
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,350 |
Go to a gun show and get some older production Weaver bases. They are about as common as dirt and should give you no problems.
Last edited by S99VG; 11/07/12.
"The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle." John Stapp - "Stapp's Law"
"Klaatu barada nikto"
|
|
|
|
|
559 members (1badf350, 219DW, 204guy, 160user, 12344mag, 10gaugeman, 64 invisible),
18,039
guests, and
1,238
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums81
Topics1,194,864
Posts18,537,758
Members74,050
| |
Most Online20,796
|
|
|
|
