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Joined: Jun 2010
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Can someone point to either a video or a tutorial of another type that they would consider the "best" for a dimwit's guide to bedding an action, specifically 700's. If you search for this on YouTube, for instance, you get several. Same is true of a Google search. So please point me to one that has proven especially helpful.

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Go down to the "hunting rifle" section and read the DIY on the 77 Ruger. Very good article with pictures as I remember. One thing I never do anymore, is use the guard screws to tighten the BA to the stock. I use black electrical tape to hold it firm. The problem with using the screws is one can over tighten them and cause a bind in the action. I haven't had to redo a glass job since I started using the electrical tape.

Last edited by FredWillis; 12/17/12.
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Same suggestion here, but gravity is the only implement I use to keep my barreled action in place while the material hardens. Action screws may be in place to keep the holes clear, but that's their only function.


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In my experience, not using screws or hand screws at all, and relying on tape or elastic to hold things together, may result in rotary misalignment of the action and stock. I use both, but leave the screws somewhat loose once I'm sure things are in proper position.

I agree the screws should never be tightened.

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I want the screws in, but not tight, to ensure proper alignment. I want it held in just as it's going to be once complete. I place a very small object, such as a piece of cardboard, on the stock to ensure that when I lightly snug the screws the action is brought down into the bedding material the desired amount. I have one near the front screw and one near the rear screw. This allows me to 'feel' the action reach the proper location as I put the screws in.

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I use the headless guard screws, which are about 3 inches long.

I use them to align the screw holes in the guard with the holes in the action, although I do bed the action and guard separably.

An objection to Accru-glass is that I always run out of the release agent long before I run out of glass. Brownell's does not put enough release agent in their bedding kits.

I use Johnsons Paste Wax.

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In my new book RIFLE TROUBLE-SHOOTING AND HANDLOADING I provide a fairly comprehensive outline of various methods.

I know professional gunsmiths with great reputations for making accurate rifles who bed rifles using the action screws, and others who don't. I've also shot rifles from both kinds of smiths, and they all shoot great--which suggests knowing that you're doing is the big difference.

I've epoxy-bedded well over 100 rifles myself, using both methods, with good results from both--and I always keep some paste wax on hand in case I run out of "official" bedding release agent.


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FWIW, I use inletting pins (headless guard screws), and then lightly clamp the action with a couple of Jorgensen clamps. The bottom metal should be in place for alignment purposes.

Buy a big bottle of release agent from Brownells. Use it liberally.

Trewax works really well to fill in the invariable nooks & crannies on any action prior to bedding. 2" wide electrical tape is just the stuff to wrap the barrel with.

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Glass bedding is one of the most reliable technique for rifle refining that is serious issue in increasing its accuracy. As it has been done by painting a coat of paste wax and after this remove all epoxy that has flowed up around the barrel and action with a knife or chisel.


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