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Originally Posted by roundoak
If there is no code for his area, I would research the code in an area that has it and duplicate it's application in his case.

Cutting corners is where danger lurks.


that point makes some sense.

humans have burnt wood for heat, warmth, and security nearly foreever.

unfortunately, houses have burnt down, sometimes with a loss of life, unfortunately, nearly forever.

wood is a good fuel. no sense in denying that. and it can be cost-effective. but no need in living dangerously, either.


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Yes. 1st get the top a couple feet above anything within 10 ft. More elevation is even better. 2nd if at all possible do away with the elbows. 3rd Meet or exceed code. Like said, if a fire eventually happens, one can bet the insurance company will look for a way to save themselves a few hundred thousand $$.

You have a seriously scary setup there. Been primary heating with wood here since 1982 and never experienced anything even close to your event.

Last edited by 1minute; 12/27/12.

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Originally Posted by bruinruin

In Michigan the code states that such a chimney terminate not less than 3' above any surface within 10'. That means that on a 4/12 pitch roof the pipe must extend 6' above the point that it penetrates the roof. More of course if the roof has a steeper pitch.



What I wanna know is,...when is Michigan gonna enact a code that prevents the blacks from burnin' the damn town down on devil's night?

You can have a chimney 89 damn feet tall,...and it ain't gonna make a damn to a determined jiggaboo.

,..and that's a fact!


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I'm feelin' particularly politically incorrect tonight.

Please forward any complaints to:

Kiss my ass
It is what it is Blvd
Fat Girl, Mississippi 69812


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BC Brian be here directly,..talkin' 'bout,..

"Why!,...I NEVER!

You Americans are so,...so,...so,... HUMPH!

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A warm chimney draws better than a cold one, and the straighter you can get the pipe, the better. Also, you absolutely have to get the top of the pipe above the roof line, and even higher if there are tall trees close to the house.

My chimney goes up the middle of my house, so it stays warm until it gets to the attic. It is an 8"x12" block and tile chimney that extends about three feet above the peak of my roof. It drafts so well, it will almost suck the flame off a match when you go to light the fire. I never use kindling -- just crumple up three or four sheets of newsprint, and pile the logs on that. Also have a 90* elbow coming out of the furnace, and a 90* elbow going into the chimney all within less than 4 feet from the stove to the chimney. That is plain wall stove pipe. Has worked famously for the last 27 years.


"Keep thy heart with all diligence; for out of it are the issues of life." (Prov 4:23)

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charleinco has it right.....he uses a heatgun I use a small electric space heater for 15 minutes before lighting a pre-built fire in any woodstove under windy conditions....i have 3 woodstoves...to heat about 3500sq. ft. in 2 buildings....they are all code...high wind requires you to pre-heat the flue before lighting the fire....i stick the small heater right inside the stove and close the the door with just the cord trailing out....works everytime.....bearit...

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Originally Posted by bearit
charleinco has it right.....he uses a heatgun I use a small electric space heater for 15 minutes before lighting a pre-built fire in any woodstove under windy conditions....i have 3 woodstoves...to heat about 3500sq. ft. in 2 buildings....they are all code...high wind requires you to pre-heat the flue before lighting the fire....i stick the small heater right inside the stove and close the the door with just the cord trailing out....works everytime.....bearit...


What do you do if there is no electric power?


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the purpose of a wood stove is to operate as an individual or autonomous heat source.

all else is an auxillary add-on.

fireplaces have helped keep the early settlers alive from day one on the western shores.


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Originally Posted by bearit
charleinco has it right.....he uses a heatgun I use a small electric space heater for 15 minutes before lighting a pre-built fire in any woodstove under windy conditions....i have 3 woodstoves...to heat about 3500sq. ft. in 2 buildings....they are all code...high wind requires you to pre-heat the flue before lighting the fire....i stick the small heater right inside the stove and close the the door with just the cord trailing out....works everytime.....bearit...
My primary heat source is a wood stove in my living room. I live on top of a hill. It's windy as hell all the time up here and I never pre heat anything before I light my stove. Obviously no need to as I've never had a single problem with draft.

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Originally Posted by akpls
Originally Posted by RatFink
Open a window first. Then open the stove and stuff with loosely crumpled newspaper, then light. That will get the flow reversed immediately. Then proceed with building your fire in a normal manner. The hot blast of the newspaper burning up really fast will start a draft and reverse that cold air block.
This.....works every time.


Agreed. I had a similar issue with an external brick chimney (all to code) that would fill the house with smoke unless I cracked the door when lighting.


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Originally Posted by hwgtyd
Originally Posted by akpls
Originally Posted by RatFink
Open a window first. Then open the stove and stuff with loosely crumpled newspaper, then light. That will get the flow reversed immediately. Then proceed with building your fire in a normal manner. The hot blast of the newspaper burning up really fast will start a draft and reverse that cold air block.
This.....works every time.


Agreed. I had a similar issue with an external brick chimney (all to code) that would fill the house with smoke unless I cracked the door when lighting.
I've never needed to crack a window either but then I don't see how that would accomplish anything since my stove has an outside air intake.

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Last edited by ajb05854; 12/27/12.
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Originally Posted by FlyboyFlem
Huge code violation, totally unsafe and above all very probable no insurance claim would be paid for a house fire should it be the direct cause.


They would pay.They are insuring you against YOUR stupidity, among other things.


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Have lost power and used several candles to warm the flue, that worked also. When there is power the heat gun is simpler and faster

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Originally Posted by rost495
We had an earthstove brand stove for years and years in a mobile home. Pipe went vertical out roof, with a pair of 90 offsets to get it centered.

We gave it to a friend when we moved, in an OLD house, didn't have enough pipe to get it above roof when he put it in at the time, and so went up about 5 feet, out the side about 4 feet, and then up about 2 feet and put a cap on it.

Its about 3 feet below the eave. And at least 20 inches from the outside edge of wall.

Pipe come out north wall of house.

Wind was fairly strong last night when he lit it first. Smoke all inside the house with both dampers open but door shut. ( I actually had no clue it could do that??) Once fire got burning the draft reversed.

Question is, what exactly will prevent this from happening again? Its never happened to us ever. With that stove or the current Earthstove we are using.

Will simply going up high enough to get above roof for the 10 foot horizontal clearance magically stop and solve that issue? Or if we go up to that height will it continue to do that.

I'd assumed that with both dampers shut there should be no way for smoke to come back out of stove into house?

Thanks, Jeff


Hi Jeff.

Stoves can do that cold, especially if the house itself is cold.

To eliminate it, prior to lighting a fire, get the stove drafting by holding a wad of lit newspaper up in the part of the stove (usually the top) right where the pipe exits it.

Did it on our two stoves just yesterday, as we came home from Xmas to a very cold house.


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pre heating seemed to solve the issue on the next burn.

We are still searching the pipe. Seems if you can figure out what you have, you can match it to an extent, even though the od won't be the same. unfortunately saving money can be more costly than some folks think.

But when you look at 160 bucks per piece of chimney it slows some down.

I believe we'll be totally solved in the next few weeks.

unfortunately here, you can maybe burn a stove once a week for a day or two...which is good in this case actually.

As noted just returned from a fire this morning, where even with stuff done right, it can go wrong. I'm just glad we didn't have a totally involved house as I was almost at the station when the pager went off and we got out in the country on scene fairly quickly.


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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Originally Posted by rost495

We gave it to a friend when we moved, in an OLD house, didn't have enough pipe to get it above roof when he put it in at the time, and so went up about 5 feet, out the side about 4 feet, and then up about 2 feet and put a cap on it.


I think this is the worst way to vent a stove. I once rented a house that had a woodstove set up this way and the elbow allowed a tremendous amount of creosote to build up in pipe. I was lucky in that I had problems with getting the smoke out the first time I lit it and got a hunch that I better pull it apart and check. One good, hot fire, from burning down the house.

No 90s for me. No way. I designed my current house to allow a straight pipe.

YMMV


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Never had a draft problem lighting the stove here. Wind, cold, whatever.

But if the doors/windows are all closed, make sure you don't have bathroom vent fans, and the dryer running. if those things are all pushing air out of the house, chances are it is being drawn in through the woodstove vent.

We set up our stove with a straight shot from stove up through the roof. easy to light and super easy to punch it out with the brush.


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Depending on a home's orientation, wind direction, and the window/door left open, one can lower the air pressure inside the house and pull air down the chimney. I too have a cold air pack that pulls outside air from my garage. Outside air delivery is now part of Oregon's code and new installations must be inspected.


Last edited by 1minute; 12/27/12.

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