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OP
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Is regular old paper tape good enough to protect the stock or is there something a lot better?
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Jul 2005
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Depends how careful you are. When in doubt use duct tape, start with two wraps and go from there. Have fun.
Old Corps
Semper Fi
FJB
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Doesn't take but a split second for sand paper to go through masking tape and start eating wood, at least that was my experience.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Campfire Regular
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OP
Campfire Regular
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So is there a better tape than duct tape? BTW, I'll be doing this by hand with a sanding block, I assume your experience is with a belt sander. (?)
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 141
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Nov 2012
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thats going to suck with a block sander.
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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When I started installing and fitting recoil pads, I used a hand drill fitted with a sanding disc and held the drill in a padded vice. I wrapped about 2 - 3 layers of masking tape around the stock. I ground the recoil pad down, matching the stock angle, until I touched the masking tape. Then with 1 layer of tape on the stock, I used a sanding block to finish out the hard base of the recoil pad (120 grit using WD-40 as a lube). The sanding block won't hardly sand down the rubber, but the hard base can be sanded to better match the stock/recoil pad fit. I now grind down recoil pads on a pad fitting jig with my belt sander, not on the stock.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 141
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Nov 2012
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Have you ever hand sanded a rubber recoil pad? or rubber in general? It's sucks takes way to long to do. I specifically bought a belt sander to avoid this. then All i have to do is light sanding to the pad to blend out the lines.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 141
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 141 |
When I started installing and fitting recoil pads, I used a hand drill fitted with a sanding disc and held the drill in a padded vice. I wrapped about 2 - 3 layers of masking tape around the stock. I ground the recoil pad down, matching the stock angle, until I touched the masking tape. Then with 1 layer of tape on the stock, I used a sanding block to finish out the hard base of the recoil pad (120 grit using WD-40 as a lube). The sanding block won't hardly sand down the rubber, but the hard base can be sanded to better match the stock/recoil pad fit. I now grind down recoil pads on a pad fitting jig with my belt sander, not on the stock. Back in the day when I had more time and less money I made my recoil pad fixture based of the dimensions and pictures in the brownell's book. I laso copied their barrel vise and action wrench.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 95
Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 95 |
3 wraps of green painters tape, and a belt sander with a medium coarse belt. Mount the stock in a padded vise, I like to mount it lower than bench height and get it as close as you dare keeping the sander parallel and square to the lines of the stock at medium speed.
Pull two wraps of tape after hitting it with a file to blend around the base and hand sand/block sand to fine it too the stock.
Take your time and it should work out nicely.
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Campfire Ranger
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OP
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Well that turned out really well. It took about 2 hours of sanding sitting in front of the TV. I did most of the work with 120 grit and just lightly polished with 220.
This is one I would recommend for any late-model Remington 700 which, everyone I've seen, has a recoil pad that is raised about 1/64" (just my guess, could have been 1/32") above the stock surface.
BTW, duct tape works great. There was never any possibility of sanding through the tape by hand.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Also putting the stock and pad in the deep freeze before sanding helps greatly. The rubber sands more like soft wood and isn't so sticky. Works great.
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