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I may be looking to get rid of an ambi safety off my Kimber and switch to a left side only so I can put a crimson trace on it, do you know how easy/difficult it is to switch one out? Can you just grind down the right side a bit to allow it clear? Have never disassembled a 1911 further than slide and barrel removal, but think it would be a good thing to learn. Thanks, Jon
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I've been thinking of something close to that myself. I'd go check at one of the dedicated 1911 forums. They would have info there.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Changing out the safety on a 1911 is a piece of cake. [video:youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KhzHVQrvdpk[/video]
A Doe walks out of the woods today and says, that is the last time I'm going to do that for Two Bucks.
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Changing it out is easy. Doing it correctly, not as much. On the Kimber, you can order an OEM single side safety, and it will probably function without fitting. There is a decent chance, however, that it will need to be fitted.
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Your best bet is to order the correct piece versus grinding the existing one. It isn't hard to swap it out just pay attention to realigning the fire control parts.
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I may be looking to get rid of an ambi safety off my Kimber and switch to a left side only so I can put a crimson trace on it, do you know how easy/difficult it is to switch one out? Not sure which safety lever you have on the right side of your Kimber ambi. I have CT laser grips on my Kimber and have no issues with interference between the laser and the right side ambi lever.
I never thought I'd grow up to be a grumpy old man, but I did, and I'm killin' it.
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JonS how did it turn out? Its great when we hear back from you if you have time....
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Campfire 'Bwana
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fitting one isn't that hard , just take your time . You can easily take metal off , very hard to put it back
A Doe walks out of the woods today and says, that is the last time I'm going to do that for Two Bucks.
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There are no such thing as a drop in part on a 1911. The safety would need to be fitted, or at least ensure that the sear does not move once cut on and trigger is pulled. You ease the hammer back and listen for the sear to partially reengauge from the slight movement. The fitting of the tab on the safety that blocks the sear in position is a true precision fit. You need to know what angles to file and when to stop cutting agressive and start polishing for better words. It is easily cut too much and then a scrap part, one swipe with a 6 or 8 inch mill smooth or finer file can be too much. You would need to know you are getting close. Look at this link for an idea. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=376137I would grind exterior off the right side before fitting another one if I were you. Either that or pay someone to do it that has experience with the platform. Before I was taught how to build I screwed up two while looking at the one I took out as a guide to show where to file and how much. They aint a glock
What does it mean when the primers fall out of the case?
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I might head down to a buddy's tomorrow to grind down the right side. I see Kimber sells a bobbed safety for $21, but my understanding is they just cut the full size one down. My Kimber has identical length safety levers on both sides. I can move it down with the grips on far enough to allow the trigger to be pulled, but the slide won't go back as the safety is barely in the way based on how far it will go down with the CT's on. He is going to show me how to disassemble the gun beyond field stripping which will be nice and I figure if I can keep the safety I have, no fitting will be necessary, the trigger is great already. Thanks, Jon
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