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I have never owned a 336 before, I have always be a Winchester guy (94's in 7-30 waters & a custom 35 rem). I really want a Marlin 336 30-30 that will be my primary hunting arm (deer, black bear, and hog). I am looking to keep it under 450 what model should I get?
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I'd recommend a good used 336C or 336T from the mid 60's-1982. That gives you factory drilled/tapped for scope but pre-safety and good old JM quality.
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I'd recommend a good used 336C or 336T from the mid 60's-1982. That gives you factory drilled/tapped for scope but pre-safety and good old JM quality. I agree with Blackheart and you should have no problem finding one for under $350 if you're patient and look around. That way you'll have some money left over for sling, ammo, etc. Good luck!
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I have always be a Winchester guy (94's in 7-30 waters & a custom 35 rem).
That's interesting - In 45 years, I've never seen or heard of a Winchester Model 94 chambered for the rimless .35 Remington. Could you expand upon your custom rifle ? .
It ain't no fun, when the rabbit's got the gun
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1971 Marlin 336 with factory 1.5-5x40 scope in tip-off mounts.
"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon
"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg
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I have always be a Winchester guy (94's in 7-30 waters & a custom 35 rem).
That's interesting - In 45 years, I've never seen or heard of a Winchester Model 94 chambered for the rimless .35 Remington. Could you expand upon your custom rifle ? . I doubt you ever will, it wasn't a 35 rem i meant to type .357 rem. The work was done by a gunsmith apprentice named Terrance Bell in Mississippi he made it for someone else and I bought it when I had him re-bore a Ruger #3 for me, the gun never feed properly and I never liked a gun that I always had to reload for. I doubt that a 35 rem could work in a 94 because of the bolt face diameter, perhaps one could replace the bolt but that's a lot of work. I eventually had the it turned into a 38-55, its still in shape ugly but at-least it works now and ammo is available, however I loaned it to a friend and I am not confident I will get her back, he really likes it.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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I'd recommend a good used 336C or 336T from the mid 60's-1982. That gives you factory drilled/tapped for scope but pre-safety and good old JM quality. I agree with Blackheart and you should have no problem finding one for under $350 if you're patient and look around. That way you'll have some money left over for sling, ammo, etc. Good luck! Thank you, I have been trying to be patient looking around and looking at the new one's I have not been impressed.
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If you're used to Winchesters take your time looking for a 336T. The SS rifle on the left is from 2005, the 16" barreled trapper is a 1989 rifle. All the others are 1958-1975 rifles. Those are my favorite years for Marlins. Note the slimmer forends compared to the 2005 rifle. Of course there are a couple of Winchesters in there.
Most people don't really want the truth.
They just want constant reassurance that what they believe is the truth.
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Paid just over $200 for this one in a pawn shop last year. It was rough looking and took some time to get it this clean. Mounted a Leupold M8 3X on it with standard Leupold rings and one-piece base. I have since traded it but still have this .35 that I paid just a bit more for. Scope setup that was on the .30-30 will be on this one soon. They're out there and this time of year is a good time to find them. WFR
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I found a 336cs for 375, probably negotiable due to some condition issues. Any experience with a CS?
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There were some fine rifles mades from 83-09, but I would not have a CS made by Remington. Quality seems to have been consitently better in the 50s-early 80s though. Hold out for a clean presafety Texan. You won't regret it.
Always remember that you are unique, just like everyone else.
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I hunt out of a deerstand so I prefer a post safety.. The bottom is a TS with a 18" barrel the middle a ltr with a 161/2" barrel. Both have a forend simular to a Winchester 1894. If the 375 is in good shape I'd buy it. I have a Contender in 375 win.
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I found a 336cs for 375, probably negotiable due to some condition issues. Any experience with a CS? Found a Marlin 336 CS , 30/30 , pre-Rem for sale. The rifle is in outstanding condition 99% The seller tells me the rifle was shot <40 times and it looks perfect. Looking for comments / experience with the 336 CS
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much" Teddy Roosevelt
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I found a 336cs for 375, probably negotiable due to some condition issues. Any experience with a CS? Found a Marlin 336 CS , 30/30 , pre-Rem for sale. The rifle is in outstanding condition 99% The seller tells me the rifle was shot <40 times and it looks perfect. Looking for comments / experience with the 336 CS Hotload, if you don't mind the safety and you can get it for $325-$375 or so then I'd go for it. I have a hard time paying more than that for any 336. I paid more for both of my 1895GS rifles but that's a different beast altogether. 44magtrapper, what condition issues? If the issues are cosmetic then argue that price down and try to get it as close to $300 as you can. If the issues are mechanical in nature just walk away as there are plenty of them still out there.
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Hotload, if you don't mind the safety and you can get it for $325-$375 or so then I'd go for it. I have a hard time paying more than that for any 336. I paid more for both of my 1895GS rifles but that's a different beast altogether.
44magtrapper, what condition issues? If the issues are cosmetic then argue that price down and try to get it as close to $300 as you can. If the issues are mechanical in nature just walk away as there are plenty of them still out there.
What I thought was mostly cosmetic damages until I took a much closer look, on top of the scratch up stock and some surface rust on the barrel which I could fix it was missing the rear sling stud and the the screw that holds the lever in place as-well-as the one behind the load gate had messed up heads. That's a bit more than I would want to fix unless they would seriously drop the price which they would go any further than 350, so the hunt continues.
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Why bottom feed when there are so many from which to choose?
"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon
"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg
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Agreed. You should keep looking. You'll find a good deal on one soon and I look forward to seeing pictures of it. Try Armslist to see if you can locate one nearby. Hotload, if you don't mind the safety and you can get it for $325-$375 or so then I'd go for it. I have a hard time paying more than that for any 336. I paid more for both of my 1895GS rifles but that's a different beast altogether.
44magtrapper, what condition issues? If the issues are cosmetic then argue that price down and try to get it as close to $300 as you can. If the issues are mechanical in nature just walk away as there are plenty of them still out there.
What I thought was mostly cosmetic damages until I took a much closer look, on top of the scratch up stock and some surface rust on the barrel which I could fix it was missing the rear sling stud and the the screw that holds the lever in place as-well-as the one behind the load gate had messed up heads. That's a bit more than I would want to fix unless they would seriously drop the price which they would go any further than 350, so the hunt continues.
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