Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots How do front and rear stocks come off No. 1 RSI?

Thank you in advance

Front - undo the screw underneath the forearm, about halfway down. The forearm slides forward and off.

Rear - undo one of the recoil pad screws and put a 7/16 socket on the end of a long extension. Unscrew the stock bolt.

In both cases, watch for falling pins, captive nuts, etc. when the wood comes off.

Even with the RSI the forearm slides forward?

RSIs require the additional step of removing the fore-end cap screw and sliding the cap off.

My experience with the three I maintain is that the forearm on the RSI is best removed by undoing the forearm screw and then sliding the wood forward until the nosecap clears the front sight assembly. Then the wood can be tilted away like the stocks on other No.1 variants.

Certainly you can remove the nosecap, but I've found that uneceesary in practice IF you slide forward (like a pump gun) before you angle outwards.

The caveat to this advice is that some bedding jobs on the forearm prevent it from sliding forward as they capture the supporting block for the ejector spring assembly.

You're really trying to push density and dumbassitude to levels only imagined, aren't you? First there was that horseshit "question" about why Ruger was producing the 7x57mm in the RSI configuration only, then there's this bullshit indicating you're too lazy to look for and obviously too f*cking stupid to consult the exploded drawing of the No. 1 on Ruger's and other websites.

Candyass, lazy, and stupid. You've really hit the trifecta.

Once again, the fuzzy-haired, totally self-elected "Moderator" takes the low road.

Good going.

Maybe Pat Sinclair (Scenarshooter) who has killed one-hundred big game animals to every one of yours and dogzapper (an international hunter who is WAY more experienced than you will EVER be) would still be on the 24HCF had you, and those like you, had chosen not to be total pricks.

Naw, would have been too hard. So, the 'Fire is stuck with you as a self-elected "Moderator." Good Luck with that, Dicktop.

As Travis says, GFY.

For all of your bitching and crying -- and there's a LOT of BITCHING from your bitch ass -- you registered to post here on 6-28-13. Because you find this board so distasteful. What a f*cking moron.

What I don't get is where in the F*CK do stupid f*ckers like you and this idiot thread starter get the nuts to act indignant?

It's a simple premise: you post ignorant bullshit and act like a dickhead and you'll be treated as such.

If you think you're entitled to some form of "respect," then don't piss and moan about ignorant bullshit and don't ask stupid questions. If you can't wrap your head around that, you'll have a hard row to hoe and I'll thump your ass every chance I'll get. Because that's the kind of nice guy I am.

The high road is always better.

I would only add that the "nose cap" can be a little snug and you may need to tap it off with a small, rubber or other non marring material, mallet. I tend to be extra careful as I've been known to break things or, screw them up, in the past. Not that tough though.

I've removed 5 or 6 nose caps since my RSI adventure began. ALL the nose caps I've messed with have been too snug to remove by hand and I've never tried to push the forearm foreward with the cap in place (I'd be interested in seeing it done, but not on my gun..lol.)..

I do a two person job on the nose caps:

A piece of blue painters tape on the nose cap at the tip where it turns down.

One person holding the gun.

The other person with a short section of wood dowel and a mallet to give the nose cap a gentle WACK to start it moving.

On all the ones I've worked on, once it's started moving, you're good to go by hand.


Slow and easy, one wack at a time until it moves (removing the screw first..lol...)..

That about covers it. All have been too snug that I've played with as well to remove by hand. I use a small brass/nylon dead blow hammer of sorts.