Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Bow tuning "how to"

Since folks have shown Intrest, Ill start with a list of equipment that I use to tune a bow.
1) Bow Press-necessary for installing/changing strings/cables. Also necessary for relaxing tension to make needed string/cable/yoke adjustments. I use a press very similar to the LCA EZ Press that I built myself.
2) Bow Vise or Tuning Fixture-very helpful in holding the bow in an upright position and keeping both hands free to install rest, set centershot, set nock height. Should allow bow to be tilted forward and backwards and tilt side to side. And be able to be locked down once bow is in desired position. I use a PSE tuning fixture that also has a third axis sight setting feature.
3) Quality set of levels so you can level string of bow and your arrow. A quality bow square can also be used. I just prefer the levels.
4) Allen wrenches
5) Draw Board-used to check cam lean at full draw, check cam timing, allow precise draw length measurement where the draw stop contacts the limb or cable. My draw board also allows me to pivot the bow up and down so I can double check 3rd axis adjustment on sights at full draw.
6) Paper Tuning Rack-some argue the need if bareshaft tuning but I like to get things close on paper first.
7) Quality Scale-for measureing peak draw weight and holding weight. Allows me to ensure letoff is within specs
8) Chronograph-allows me to see results when tinkering with speed nock number/location. Allows me to see if bow is performing at rated IBO speed. And just because its the one thing everyone wants to know
9) Block style target-shows true impact angles. Bag targets are great for practice with field points in the back yard, but it wont give true impact angles.

Thanks for starting this. Pics would help me when you start talking about these tools.

I will post them. Im winding down my "days off" and leave for Gulf of Mexico tomorrow evening. This thread will probably go for a while due to my work schedule with my "regular" job. But Ill include plenty pics along the way. Some pics which are for reference only will come from my wifes bow or other bows that are in the shop. Ill also include how to for tieing in d loop, peep sight, and tie in nocking points. Great to learn to do your own work, but also gives those that are curious about what they get when they send a bow off to be tuned, the skinny on what they are paying for. Its not black magic, or secret information. Anyone can do this stuff. Just takes time and the right equipment.

Thanks for the effort/time


I'm fairly handy with most things, but I've been archery hunting for 20 years and while I've done quite well I honestly don't know much about my bow.

Looking forward to this..thanks.

This looks like it has the potential to be a great thread.

Some asked for picks of the tuning equipment I use. Im offshore at the moment, but Ill post what I do have pics of.

This is my PSE tuning fixture/bow vise.

This pic shows it being used as a 3rd axis setting tool.

The in-line bow press I made myself. Saved about $350 over a factory built one.

Draw board. Used for checking cam timing, checking cam lean at full draw, getting actual MEASURED draw length. What you see written on cam or module is never to the point correct

These are the levels I use to level/plumb the string and also level the arrow. Depending on the cam system, it determines if i set arrow dead level or 1/16-1/8" nock high. Again this is a starting point. Results determine if I adjust nock height. More on that later.

Before you remove your old string, locate a repeatable reference point. Measure kisser height(if applicsble) and peep height. Write the measurements down and keep in safe spot. Remove old string/cables. Install new string/cables. Place bow in tuning fixture or bow vise. Use levels to get everything precise.

My bow is a Bowtech Invasion with the OD Binary cam with tuneable yokes. Basically a std 2 cam system. Starting point for nock will be dead level. Hybrid and single cam models i normally start between 1/16 and 1/8" nock high. For this application we want arrow dead level and center of arrow lined up with center of rest mounting hole

When I get back in from work, we'll put the Invasion back on the tuning fixture and check cam pre-lean(the setting that should yield us zero cam lean at full draw). We will also put the bow on the draw board. Record actual measured AMO(Archery Manufacturers Organization) draw length, check cam timing, and check cam lean at full draw. Once cam timing is set(both draw stops touching at exactly same time), go back to tuning fixture and verify proper nock height. I'll cover how to tie a d loop and install tie on nocking points. These eliminate nock pinch.

Excellent info and descriptions! Although I've done most of my own tuning in the past, I have definitely learned from this, and look forward to learning more! Thanks for your time and effort!

As my signature line states, I own/operate my own tuning shop. Gladly tune a bow for anyone that wants it done, but as I have stated, this stuff isnt "trade secrets", or any black magic. Gladly help anyone any way i can.

I would like to see photos of how the cam lean tool works and what it looks like, when being tested. Enjoying this thread and hope to learn a bunch. Thanks.

When I set up to check "prelean" (the amount of cam lean present when bow is at rest) ill measure down 6"(what has proved to be good reference point on MY bow) from where string tracks into the cam and make a mark. Then laying an arrow shaft against the left side of the cam, Ill see if shaft intersects that mark. Then I will check cam lean at full draw with the bow on the draw board. At full draw I should be able to lay the arrow shaft against left side of cam and it remain same distance off the string all the way to the d loop. Again, these are preliminary settings that will be fine tuned according to what arrow flight tells me. Results based tuning.
The draw board is nothing more than a device used to hold the bow while a mechanical device such as a boat winch is used to bring the bow to full draw. Keeps your hands free to take measurements etc. ill put the bow on my tuning fixture/bow vise to do the prelean check. And I will include pics.

Cool setup. I built a press just like that a few years ago. Still haven't started on my draw board. I'd like some closer up pics of yours, especially the holder area, so I can copy it, if you don't mind. Very nice.

The draw board isnt shop built. Purchased it from bowhanger.com. $130

280' the draw board would have to draw in a straight line so as not to give a false impression of a cam lean. I know when I draw my bow and pull my head back and look at the wheel it can appear to lean left or right according to how I apply grip twist.
On a solo cam (Mathews) you are only worried about the lower cam leaning, not the top wheel?

The draw board does draw in a straight line and applies no torque on the grip. Cam lean is then checked by laying an arrow down left side of cam and seeing where it intersects string. On solo cam bows the only static yoke is at top limb. Allows adjustment of idler wheel lean.

And if a cam leans, what do you do?

Lets see how to explain this. The cam on a solocam is how it is. Yoke tune the idler wheel according to what arrow flight tells you. Cant work top and bottom on a solo cam or hybrid cam set up like you can on a dual cam set up with 2 buss cables with static yokes. That is not to say it cant be tuned to the same degree of tuning.