My Napa was out of their "premium" oil filters for my 06 Rhino so i went with the standard grade filter. Does the fact that it[oil] is for trans as well as engine play a role? Should I go back and have them get me the premium filter?
not to mention those that think you have to run synthetic in everything
I don't "have" to run synthetics oils, I WANT to run synthetic oils in my vehicles. I'm not saying that conventional oils aren't adequate, I'm saying that synthetics are superior and I don't mind paying a little extra for a better product
I've never understood the guys that hammer on others for using synthetic oils, its as if they are trying to convince themselves that the cheaper option is just as good
In cases where a conventional oil is perfectly adequate, using something "better" is often equivalent to using stainless nails in the construction of a house. Are they better? Sure. Do they do anything better in ordinary, non-salt-soaked wood)? No. Do they cost more? Yes, a lot more.
Besides, a lot of synthetic oil is simply a more purified/modified form of mineral oil anyway. The additive package is probably more important than the exact type of base oil used.
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
I use a heavy duty diesel engine oil in all my ORV's. Currently IM using Chevron Dello 15w40. The zinc levels(anti wear additives) are much higher than gasoline engine oil and they also are formulated with much more detergent.
Someone already mentioned if it has a wet clutch make sure you use an oil with the JASO rating.
My g8-g8 uncle was Barney Riggs. Google and read about him. He roamed around the southwest, mainly west Tx and Az and NM territory. History credits him with from 9 - 12 men he killed, not counting Mexicans and Indians. Family lore has it at 18.
Any 10w40,15-40,or 20-50 is fine with wet clutches. The lighter weight oils all have friction modifiers for mileage purposes hence they can cause problems with wet clutches.
Some wet-clutch manufacturers sell 0W- and 5W- weight oils as well as 10W-30 oils which meet wet clutch ratings (JASO-MA ratings). The viscosity numbers only refer to viscosity, not the qualities used to determine suitability for wet clutch operation.
Any old oil may work much of the time; the correctly rated oil will get you beyond "much" of the time, closer to "all" of the time.
Originally Posted by R_Walter
Someone already mentioned if it has a wet clutch make sure you use an oil with the JASO rating.
Make sure it is not only JASO, but JASO-MA. The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization rates oils in various ways just as other oil rating organizations do.
Last edited by Klikitarik; 09/08/13.
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
I use Honda G4 oil in my Foreman but have used the Valvoline 4-Stroke ATV oil in the past and it worked just fine. I switched to the Honda oil because it is actually cheaper than the Valvoline. Like others have already said, the Foreman runs a wet clutch setup so it requires a specific type of oil.
Some wet-clutch manufacturers sell 0W- and 5W- weight oils as well as 10W-30 oils which meet wet clutch ratings (JASO-MA ratings). The viscosity numbers only refer to viscosity, not the qualities used to determine suitability for wet clutch operation.
Any old oil may work much of the time; the correctly rated oil will get you beyond "much" of the time, closer to "all" of the time.
Originally Posted by R_Walter
Someone already mentioned if it has a wet clutch make sure you use an oil with the JASO rating.
Make sure it is not only JASO, but JASO-MA. The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization rates oils in various ways just as other oil rating organizations do.
I will be using at temps between 30 degrees and 65 degrees or so . Craig
Some wet-clutch manufacturers sell 0W- and 5W- weight oils as well as 10W-30 oils which meet wet clutch ratings (JASO-MA ratings). The viscosity numbers only refer to viscosity, not the qualities used to determine suitability for wet clutch operation.
Any old oil may work much of the time; the correctly rated oil will get you beyond "much" of the time, closer to "all" of the time.
Originally Posted by R_Walter
Someone already mentioned if it has a wet clutch make sure you use an oil with the JASO rating.
Make sure it is not only JASO, but JASO-MA. The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization rates oils in various ways just as other oil rating organizations do.
What I said pertains to the last few ratings for automotive oil. You might find a manufacturer specific oil thats Jaso-ma in the lighter weights, but I really cant stomach running a 0w, 0r 5w oil in a atv due the shearing involved with typical atv designs.
I was in the local Dollar store today and looking at their Oils and Although they had several different brands all of them said enviromentaly friendly except they had some PenzoilHigh Mileage vehicle oil. Brown container.Says itis suitable for all carsuv and light van and truck under all driving conditions.For vehicles calling for API SN and all previous categories. Says nothing about wet clutches. I dont see anything about JASO or JASO_ MA that I know of. They had 10W-30 and 10-W40,I bought 5 Quarts of the 10W-30. I have not used it yet and can take it back if it is not a good oil for my Honda Foreman 500. Anyone know anything about this oil and whether I want to use it in my ATV or not. Thanks Craig
I have run nothing but 10W-30 in my old 98 300 TRX, most of it regular old yellow bottle Pennzoil. However, that machine didn't call for anything other than an automotive rated oil, and many/most people never had issues with standard automotive oils in those engines. The newer engines seem to be pickier and do call specifically for the JASO - MA rating. Ordinary 10W-30 will undoubtedly still work most of the time, but the right rated oil is the only thing I would run in one of the newer Hondas. It costs a lot of money to get oils tested so they don't all get tested for every rating even if they might qualify. However, I suspect they would invest the money if they actually formulated the oil to meet a certain test. Consequently I would probably not run an oil that didn't specify compliance.
BTW, I am not brand loyal to machine manufacturer oils at all.
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
I called pennzoil and the Tech i talked with said that this was a good oil but not to use it in ATV as it had ingredients in it that was not good for wet clutches. He said unfortunetly they had no oils good for an atv,that they had made one years back but that it sat on the shelves and didn,t sell very well so they Dropped it from the line.
Just get the Honda G4 oil and be done with it. Why risk engine/transmission troubles trying to save a few bucks? And you only need to cahnge the oil and filter in these things once a year. I've got almost 4000 miles on my engine with zero failures and that includes sinking it twice in 2 different creeks.
Icalled a Honda dealership today and the rep there said that Honda was now recommending a 10w-30 oil,said it was about $6.00 ,price doesn,t make any difference because as you say what am I going to change it once a year! Now I am just concerned with the best for my Rig and my conditions. Narrowed it down(lol) to Rotella 5w-40 T6,Valvolene 10w40 atv or motorcycle oil,Honda 10W-30 oil.price means nothing,out of these three which one ? Honda Foreman 2009 Manual shift Hey while we are at it do I need a special oil for the air filter? and which gear and differential oil?
I'd go with either the Valvoline or the Honda oil. No special oil for the filter, just keep it clean. I use either K&N filter cleaner or regular gasoline and let it air dry then hit it with some K&N filter oil on the inside, put it in a ziplock bag and spread the oil with your hands.
I use hypoid gear oil SAE #80 in my diffs. Pay close attention to the oil filter, it has to go in a certain way and if you put it in backwards you can damage your motor.
Why only change the oil once a year? I suppose one might get by with a 12 month interval at the outside, but I would imagine most people hit the mileage interval well before that. I know some of the Hondas specify a 600 mile interval, some probably longer, but oil breaks down after it has been exposed to combustion by-products. I'd run cheaper oil before I stretched the change intervals that far. Certainly twice a year won't break the bank, and in severe climates, once a month has worked out very well for us (though I do cheat and follow the mileage spec on our Yam/Griz. At 800 miles per change, that means about 5-7 changes per year.)
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
