Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Trigger work

Sorry don't know if this has been discussed before. Doing some trigger work (polish, springs, etc.) on my mil-spec single stage and tried the trick of drilling & taping the pistol grip screw for a 6-32 set screw to run up through the middle so the creep can be adjusted by pushing against the bottom of the trigger. The creep went from about .100" down to about .020" and knocked 1/2 lb. off the pull weight. Very happy with the results & surprised that I had never heard of this before. My question is; Do you guys see any negatives with this mod?

Brownells sells the screw already tapped with a nylon thread locker if that interests you. But that take up is part of the safety in the design.

I've yet to see an AR trigger get polished and remain safe. They are surfaced hardened and once you get past that, it wears fast. Including Bill Springfields.

The angle is designed to actually pull the hammer back just a bit before it lets off. This is a safety feature so don't change the angle.

Lighter springs are good but don't go too light, AR's need harder primers to prevent slam fires with the floating firing pin, so...

All reasons most use a 2 stage trigger or at least an aftermarket single.

Oh and don't use the term mil spec around here as it drives a couple of people batty.

save up $230 and buy a Geisslle SSA-E.

+1

I have tried several brands of drop in triggers and match 2 stage triggers for the AR. Nothing beats the Giessele's.

Nothing beats an AR Gold, IMO. I consider them too light for social work. For that purpose, the Geiselle Super Dynamic Combat:
http://geissele.com/superdynamiccombat.aspx

Mine weighs just slightly over 4.5# and I really like that straight trigger.

Glad I don't have any social work to do.

Love to but I have a number of rifles Im working on plus I like to see how much improvement I can get trying different things. Think my next step is to try an ALG. Heard good & bad

ALG is a decent trigger. It's not a target trigger but a very nice single stage for the money.

I'm pretty content with the stock trigger on my Colt 6920.

Been playing with Del-Ton, RRA, & DPMS triggers. Birthday next week & asked daughter for a ALG. See if its any better than what I've been able to do which hasnt been as much as I had hoped.

It might not be any better but it will last and be safe.

I have a QMS I got here, works well enough but I've noticed that if you don't let off all pressure between shots it will reset to a very light pull. Any cure for that, other than the obvious
"get your booger hook off the go button until you want to kill something" (expletives deleted)?

Did you use the pins they sent?

If so, they made their pins oversized and they've had a few problems, the new ones come with smaller pins. I don't know if that's your problem but its worth a thunk. Otherwise call em.

Since we're on the subject of triggers and my novice abilities on ar platforms will be revealed, I wanted to go with a Timney and then found out that there is a "large pin" and "small pin" version. I have a windham varmint exterminator. How do I tell the diff and is the Timney a good trigger?

Since we're on the subject of triggers and my novice abilities on ar platforms will be revealed, I wanted to go with a Timney and then found out that there is a "large pin" and "small pin" version. I have a windham varmint exterminator. How do I tell the diff and is the Timney a good trigger?

I would never modify a trigger like that on a defensive weapon. I run stock triggers on carbines, but I'll pick up a Geisselle SSA when I put my SPR together.

I understand going through a hardened surface can cause issues. What if the critical areas are rehardened with kasenit? I have had great luck using it on stuff like specialty punches I shaped and they are still holding up. Also if done properly I have not seen issues with brittleness.

I guess that would depend on how smooth you could get the coating. Personally, if you want a standard trigger, get an AGL Defense hard chromed trigger. For about $60 they are already as good as you're gonna get a standard trigger and they hold up.

I grabbed an AGL already and was kind of disappointed. Still broke very heavy and not as smooth as I was hoping for. It seems like they are a bit of hit and miss. I might return it and see if I can grab a better one the second time. It broke at over 7.5lb and IIRC they are supposed to be a bit lighter than that.

I have been screwing around with polishing the original parts, maybe I will save those for playing around and see how they hold up. A proper kasenit job will only take a few minutes so I might give that a shot as well. Also kasenit will not leave a coating, it will only be as smooth as the original prepped surface. If it is polished super smooth it will be super smooth after. I took it to 1000 grit and I cannot see any advantage of going any smoother.

I remember polishing my very first Colt trigger, lightened the springs and was very proud of myself. Then I pulled a Milazzo 2 stage and saw how good a trigger really could be.

Then it was explained to me why the stock trigger was designed like it was and why a 2 stage was designed like it was. Buying a trigger designed to be light and zero creep starts at about $100 and is worth every penny.

The AGL is supposed to be 5.5 # I think but the surfaces are smooth and the safety aspect of the angles are still there. I suppose a man could install a spring kit and lighten it some but for the purpose it was designed for, I thought it to be about right.