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I need to replace a Jlock on a Rem700.

PT&G has complete assemblies available with aluminum shrouds, which is what I will get. However they offer 3 types of actual firing pins: steel, fluted steel, and aluminum.

I want to save weight but have an absolutely reliable pin. What are the pros and cons of each type? What are your experiences?

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I have swapped out a couple J-Lockers with these.

http://www.davidtubb.com/speedlock-rem-700-long-action-complete-assembly


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Dig the steel fluted...

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Ive had them all they all worked. They are all harder than a primer smile The only problem I ever had was with a aluminum PT&G shroud "dragging" on the top of the tang. A file fixed that in 2 minutes though.

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I have the fluted steel PTG pin. I chose it over the steel for reduced weight and supposed reduced lock time. I chose it over the aluminum because I heard some opinions that dry firing with an aluminum pin wouldn't be best.

I'm sure they all work fine.

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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
I need to replace a Jlock on a Rem700.

PT&G has complete assemblies available with aluminum shrouds, which is what I will get. However they offer 3 types of actual firing pins: steel, fluted steel, and aluminum.

I want to save weight but have an absolutely reliable pin. What are the pros and cons of each type? What are your experiences?


IMO the fluted steel is the best way to go, if PT&G does not have what you need try GRE-TAN.

Yes you have to replace the entire assembly....firing pin,shroud,spring,cocking piece. the J-Lock was a debacle....you would think Remingon would have learned their lesson but a few years later they tried to re-design their trigger eek

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I have several of the alloy ones. They work fine and save a bit of weight. I don't dry fire on an empty chamber though.

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I dry fire a lot on an empty chamber. Will the fluted steel hold up fine?

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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
I dry fire a lot on an empty chamber. Will the fluted steel hold up fine?


I have not had any issues dry firing with my fluted pin and an empty chamber. I've only had the pin about a year, in the same time this barrel probably has around 800 or 1000 rounds through it. A safe bet would be 2000 to 2500 dry fires on an empty chamber in the same timeframe, as it's pretty normal for me to dry fire a time or three (some days up to five times) between shots at the range to slow my rate of fire down.

Edit...but it's only been a year.

Last edited by joelkdouglas; 11/23/13.
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That sounds good--I'm probably going to go with the fluted steel.

Have you noticed that it speeds up the lock time any?

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A lighter pin will rduce lock time but it may increase the chance of primer "blanking" (cratering). This is usually only an issue when using small rifle primers (6BR, 223, 6.5x47L etc.). GD

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I'd NOT go aluminum.

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Was waiting for that one to appear. Steered me away...


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Has anyone had a fluted steel pin break/bend?

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Fluted steel !

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Gre-Tan

You will not be disappointed.


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I can be tough on [bleep]. To be fair, they sent me a replacement (steel) as quick as I'm typing this. I sent them back the busted one.


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As you see the aluminum pin has a steel tip. 99% of the shooters cannot take advantage of a quicker lock time. Remember a lighter pin needs a heavier spring. My BR rifles have a tungsten weight added to the firing pin.

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i went gre-tan fluted steel after my due diligence research

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