Home Forums Reloading Varmint Rifles Consistent 1.2" groups

I recently purchased a used Weatherby Super Predator Master in 22-250. This is the lightweight walking varminter with fluted barrel. I just got brass last week for it and began load development. I've used 5 different bullets now and am amazed at the consistency of the groups but I'm not thrilled with size however. After shooting 14 three shot groups I have had groups measure from 1.05" to 1.35". Most rifles I have developed loads for in the past showed more variation between bullets than that. The bullets are Nosler 55gr. Ballistic Tips, 55gr. Nosler Solid Base, 55gr. Remington Hollow point, Speer 50gr. TNT and Hornady 50gr. VMax. I'm using 34.0 and 35.0 grains of RL-15 and seating them as far out as the mag. box will allow. What is the first thing I should try changing? Seating depth, powder weight or different powder? I could live with 1.2 inch groups for coyote hunting but would like to do better.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Jeff M.

39.0-39.5 grs of H-414 with the nosler 55gr BT seated about 10 thou off the lands. That has worked in three different 22/250s for me.Rick.

It only takes one link for a chain to break. So it could be the bedding, scope, aiming, loose screws, crown etc.

Now that you tried various loads it's time to take the other things on. Keep in mind that someone sold the gun so it may have shot the same for them.

I would tighten the front guard screw and loosen the rear guard screw some the next time. Bring tools, shims etc. with you to the range.

I had a Ruger sporter weight 22-250 that liked a max. load of W-W 748 and 50 gr. Hornadys, with a CCI mag. primer.
Just another option....
Virgil B.

Thanks all for the responses and suggestions.

Savage 99 - Do you loosen the rear screw and then tighten the front, or vice versa, or does it matter which order?

Virgil - I'm using the 6x18 Leupold with the fine target dot you sold me several years ago, makes a great load development scope. Thanks

Jeff M.

Just keep the front screw tight. The spec for Kimbers is to have less torque on the rear screw and that works sometimes for other rifles.

Some like a shim under the barrel shank or forend.

Another thing to do is to reduce the amount of shots in a group. A two shot group is enough for a gun that stays sighted in and never gets more than two shots at a time.

When I develop loads for accuracy, I start with a good accurate bullet, Hornadys and Sierras have always worked, and try different powder types and charges. I always start as far out as I can and, maybe, try changing that later. Never has this system failed me. E

try using the longest bullets you have-try using 1 or 2 grs. below max-stickey bolt? move down 1 or 2 grs of powder-seat bullets until you can just feel resistance on closing bolt. bal. tips usually longest for any certain weight. don't know about other makes. sierras are shorter at least for 6mm. pick one bullet, one powder and one primer and try diff. combos. too many bullets, powders and primers will keep you going around in circles. also try seating bullets deeper- gives a more uniform tension on bullet-maybe .006 jump before rifling. let us know how you do. a full 10 min. to cool barrel down after maybe 6 shots. read this in an article, i think in reloader mag. 2 wet patches-wet bronze brush-2 dry patches. patches don't have to be lily white. this after 15 or so shots, while barrel is still warm. this works for me with 3006 and 6mm. 1" grps. at 100 and 1 1/2" grps at 300 with 6mm . everyone has the same problems with this sport we love. every bullet in the same hole would not be any fun. once a week would be ok, just to show that we know what we are doing! good advice-2 shot grps are ok until you get a great load then you can shoot 3 to 5 for braggin rights!

Bedding...................

True. Unless the bedding is decent you will chase variables with loads. Well bedded rifles shoot many loads well.

As suggested play with the screw tension and shims. If it works then your done but don't forget the impact from the first shot out of a cold barrel. If the rifle shoots but still varies perhaps the bedding could be better in terms of glass and or pillars or bushings.

Have yet too see an aluminum block mate a receiver,in any other than very sloppy geometry.

A 1.25MOA 22-250,is simply a Signaling Device......................

I agree with 'Stick.

I bed all my ah hmmm, HS stocks, because the bedding block needs it.

Or, buy a Remington !!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Tony

It is best to bed and float the barrel first....then start with load development. Otherwise, you will have to start over with loads later on.

Scrub the barrel out. It may be fouled and could effect your accuracy.

I'd choose one bullet and try three or four different powders. Work up to max with four or five charges (1/2 grain at a time towards the top end). Try shooting three shot groups at 50 yards. It eliminates some human error and still shows potential for accuracy. Seating depth is used to fine tune a load.

Any 22-250 that won't tie Re-15 fueled/50gr V-Max,into tidy knots,is veddy veddy sick....................

Absolutely! Re-15 was made for the 22-250.

Bed the gun I think it makes the biggest difference
Takes a couple of hour to bed your gun after you have laid out, use a drimel the area to be bedded. then drying time and you have hopefully a gun that shoots .I have changed all my guns groups to be what I would concider good.

Big Stick, you recon that pillar bedding a rifle action as opposed to "normal" bedding has no advantage? The reason I'm asking is that a friend is busy making me a fibreglass reinforced stock where the action is actually cast into the stock (after the "draw" has been eliminated and using a good separating agent) and I wanted him to install aluminium pillars, because I was concerned that repeated tightening of the stock screws would eventually make the stock collapse in those areas, leading to a see-saw effect of the action in the stock. Should I still bother doing this?
My friend has made these fibreglass reinforced stocks before.
Sorry for the thread hijack guys.. but I thought a lot of folks might benefit from this.

Pillar's attributes are best realized,in a handle where stock compression is an issue.

If fretting compression,pillars are an easy way to nip the possibility............................

Did anyone think of checking the barrel for excessive wear or copper fouling?

I know fouling is not the problem, I gave it a good cleaning when I first started developing loads. The bore looks good, but then I don't have a bore scope so I can't give it as good a look as I'd like.
I plan on bedding it when I have the time. Looks like it'll be a couple of weeks with the busy spring ahead of me. I'll let you all know what happens when the glas drys.

Thanks for all the input,
Jeff M.