Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Spinning a new barrel on..

Use the internal insert with the upper receiver block, or not necessary?

BTW, I have a temporary crown in that's giving me fits. Would someone please send me a block and insert for free?

I recently did my first barrel change. Did some homework and ended up going with DPMS barrel vise blocks from Midway. I learned that is the method used by military armorers. Takes all the torque off the receiver.

With the receiver block, probably a good idea to use the insert, but apparently some folks put the bolt carrier in there to add rigidity.

Checking it out right now.. Thanks, Shane.

The upper receiver blocks probably work better if you are installing a free-float tube, since that would leave the barrel area unobstructed.

Yep, if you have a float tube...


But if not, a block of wood, bored correctly, and split with some rosin... cheap as you will get.

My receiver block set includes a metal guide rod for setting gas tube clearance when torqueing the barrel nut, so I always use the insert.

There's also the Geissele Reaction Rod...

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/444133/geissele-reaction-rod-ar-15-action-wrench-steel

Damn, that is slick.

Brownell's makes something similar. Unfortunately I can't get to their website while I'm at work or I'd dig it up...

-Dan

And priced about $40-50 less, IIRC.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...el-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

$60 cheaper. The Brownell's one actually lets you put your torque wrench on the back of it and you clamp the barrel nut wrench into your vise. Now that is slick!

I just ordered one of the Brownell's units. I'll let you guys know what I think after I'm done.

Should be spinning a barrel on next week sometime.

-Dan

Torquing is nice but you still have to line up the gas tube holes?????

The gas tube will generally line up with one hole between the min and max recommended torque limits.

30-80 FP IIRC?

I forget what torque is. 80 ft lbs sounds a bit high but I may be wrong.

Re lining up, I torqued em, spun em loose and torqued again and wherever it was it was. I have a dremel and can cut the tits out, and generally do anyway to make sure I have plenty of clearance and nothing will bind on the gas tube.

Never hurt any of my guns as of this time.

30-80 ft lbs is spec but I try to stay between 40-50. I have ground a tit off but the new hand guards usually line up on them so I trim the inside of the barrel nut to stay in the 40-50 ft lb range now.

Randall at Ar15barrels use to sell shims, I've used them before too.

Then there are some that don't torque at all...

Torquing is good.......just saying that you can't get a specific torque and have all the tubes line up...unless you dremel....I generally use the German Torque spec..

Lining up the gas tube hole and staying within a specific torque range, is where trimming the barrel nut or shimming come into play.

I've seen some that would not torque at 80 lbs and line up. Shims is handy...

Just wanted to update regarding the Brownell's tool.

I picked one up and it's a very nice, well machined piece. It fits with very little wiggle room inside the upper receiver. Installed a barrel using it and have no complaints. The one suggestion I would make (if they were asking me) is to install some flats on the rear portion of the tool (that sticks out of the receiver) so it could be locked in a vase. As is, it's a 2-handed operation.

If anybody ever wants to borrow mine, just let me know and cover the shipping...