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Originally Posted by Crow hunter
If you're gonna use a rail anyway then get a 20 MOA one, it doesn't cost any more & will keep the scope closer to center. I agree that you probably won't have to have it to get to 800 or maybe even 1000, but if you're buying one anyway might as well make it a 20 MOA. It sure won't hurt any & one day you'll find you need it.


this.

even if you do have enough elevation with 0 moa, windage corrections will subtract some of the elevation travel and vice versa.


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Burris Signature rings with inserts on top of a 20 MOA rail and have the best of both.


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Originally Posted by Shod
Originally Posted by deflave
For those distances with a 30mm scope I'd rock it with a zero MOA base.

Will take you about 10 minutes to swap and re-zero if you decided you need more ass down the road.


Travis


Yep.....I started rocking with 0 moa bases this year. If I want to reach out there I'll use hash marks if I don't have enouph dial. Most my in the field shots seem to be 300 or less and so keeping the crosshairs closer to center helps to maintain clarity in the scope.

Shod


How does the reticle being centered help clarity? I have 20 MOA base on all of my long range rigs with perfect clarity in my scopes.




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Originally Posted by jwp475
Originally Posted by Shod
Originally Posted by deflave
For those distances with a 30mm scope I'd rock it with a zero MOA base.

Will take you about 10 minutes to swap and re-zero if you decided you need more ass down the road.


Travis


Yep.....I started rocking with 0 moa bases this year. If I want to reach out there I'll use hash marks if I don't have enouph dial. Most my in the field shots seem to be 300 or less and so keeping the crosshairs closer to center helps to maintain clarity in the scope.

Shod


How does the reticle being centered help clarity? I have 20 MOA base on all of my long range rigs with perfect clarity in my scopes.



Come on, you mean you don't know? It's like when you dialed your NF on the 300 Win to go long on the Speed Goat, and the scope got blurry and you couldn't see the goat confused

Last edited by 338Norma; 01/04/14.

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Cman23,

I think 116 MOA is plenty even if something funky happens with that combo needing more than half elevation to get your zero.

I've had several rifles over the past few years shooting ~0.5 G1 bullets at ~2900 fps to 800 yards. All with less scope travel from my Leupolds than yours. Your 6.5 CM is in the same ball-park ballistically, if not better.

A 20 MOA rail is certainly an option, but everytime I've used one I've needed to add a kydex taco for good cheekweld. Just something to consider with your rifle stock and whether or not you think the extra height will cause a cheekweld problem. I'm sure some are fine without a taco.

Jason

Last edited by 4th_point; 01/05/14.
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20 moa is ~.066" @ your eyeball


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That seems reasonable, 0.066" = 1.7mm

The part that I failed to mention was that when I don't "need" a 20 MOA rail, I can get the scope really low to the rifle... usually with ringmounts. But with a 20 MOA rail and even low rings, the scope ends up being fairly high. Some rails are pretty thick.

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yep. I was talking 0 moa rail vs 20 moa rail, but 0 moa doesn't have to be a rail and you nailed it

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