Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing M96 6.5 x 55 Sweedish

I am just looking for expert advice on sporterizing this rifle. Where to get a Monte Carlo style stock?
How to Put a scope mount on the rifle?
Will these old military rifles accept current production ammo?

Any advice and/or recommendations would be helpful. Thanks

Go to Boyd' s for the stock. Leopold, burris makes bases and rings.

Have the headspace checked by a competent humanity, have him drill & tap for a scope & shoot it.

Think twice about sporterizing it. They are going up in price.

Sporterizing is best defined as taking a $400 rifle and spending $400 to end up with a rifle worth $200.

In addition to what's already been mentioned, the bolt handle will have to modified for scope clearance, add $75 +/-. And as Scott said, think about the sporter route. Especially if it's a "cherry" like a lot of the Swedes out there are. I'm still kicking myself in the ass for sporterizing a nice M38 back in the day, but then again, I bought it for $100.

Everyone should sporterize at least one Mauser in his life. It's almost a rite of passage. I say go for it. The economics aside, it's a fun and educational thing to do. The value of the experience will outweigh the monetary loss, and you'll end up with something that's yours.

Sorry, but I value old milsurps by how well they lend themselves to being customized, and the only thing that gets in my way are the crazy prices collectors are paying. For example, the only reason I haven't customized a G33/40 yet is the insane prices they fetch in military trim. I also think it's poetic justice to turn an instrument of war into a peaceable tool.

I've had a guy criticize my attitude while leaning on the hood of his hot rod built from a complete running driving original model A Ford. Ironic.

As to your question "will these old rifles accept current production ammo"? Yes should be the answer. Not aware of any ammo manufacturer making ammo too hot to use in the 94, 96 or 38 Swedes. Am aware of Alliant Powder, for example, in their load data for 6.5x55 Swede ammo using their 2000MR powder show it to be for commercial actions only.

Not mentioned is that you will have to install a new type safety to clear scope. Probably want a new trigger instead of the military type, Change the cock on closing. Cut off barrel and recrown.
If the barrel and action is in good shape, you will have darn good shooting rifle. I bought mine when they were $69.

I have done dozens of Mausers and it is a lot of fun and that is how I learned to thread, chamber, drill tap, and bend bolts, etc etc. But in today's world I won't do another. The donor actions are to pricey even for ones pretty rough. And the new entry level rifles are to cheap and already have everything done but the barrel I want. Doesn't make economic sense. But that doesn't matter if a sporter mauser is what you want the go for it.

Prvi Partizan Ammo shoots well from my 96's.

Easiest Scope mount would be a scout type mount that replaces the rear sight. Allows a forward mounted scope to be used, doesn't require permanent changes (no bolt handle mods, no safety mods, no drilling & tapping).

140's may not be needed on deer but they don't kick much and kill em dead! I shoot 140's.

And the Scout Scope option works very well!!! I sure enjoy my 96. Wish I would of been smart enough to get 1 when they were $69. Gave $300 for mine, not mint but very nice. Just enough dings, etc. that I feel NO guilt hunting it. Now if I could just find a Mod. 38 and a 94 that a working stiff can afford.
Cheers

To me it comes down to how nice the Swede is. Some of them are going up in value. Is it a true 96 or a 38? The 38 will already have a turned down bolt. There can be real accurate. My 38 was, especially for a "military" rifle. Outshot several hunting buddy's rifles.

I've killed deer with everything from 129 Hornadys to 140 Partitions, to 160 Hornady RN's out of 6.5x55s that ranged from M94 carbines to a Winchester M70 Fwt. They all worked. Pretty much anything that can be launched from that cartridge case will kill deer. 'Tain't rocket science- find the bullet that gives the best accuracy in your gun (or just pick one off the shelf) and go forth and slay stuff with it.

I did a M96 6.5 x 55 Sweed for my Doctor Buddy for a Birthday Present a few years back and sent it to Shaw for a new barrel in 6.5x55 and had them drill and tap for weaver bases. I did all the other work my self including replacing the trigger with a Timney and stocking in a Glass Stock. He loved it . I had a FFL at the time and i was getting these complete rifles like new for 50 to 60 buck apiece.

I've Sported several Swedes. Great little rifles. I have an armory fresh 1908 Gustav that was produced for the Danish Royal Guard. All numbers match except the cleaning rod. I'd like to strangle the soldier that traded the out. Too mint to sport out. But I might sell it.

It can be done, though this is a 7x57 Swede.

Agreed!!!

And of all the Mauser's to sporterize, the Sweede is IMO THE one to do. The quality of the action is just better than you'll find on ANY 98 Mauser; as is the quality of the barrel. The thing to do is to use the military barrel and have it re-profiled, but sometimes just getting a new barrel is cheaper.

The 96 will handle modern ammo and pressures for any .308 based cartridge. The Sweede is stronger than any other '94 or '96 Mauser.

Bolt handle will have to be either bent, or cut, and welded back on. Trigger will need some work, and you have to drill and tap.

If you plan on making this a first rate rifle, then the Sweede is THE way to go. If you're wanting an inexpensive sporter, then sell the Sweede and buy a Yugo 98. They're cheaper and you're not destroying an expensive military rifle.

I say save the Sweedes for the masterpieces.

I would not re-contour the barrel. Those old gun designers knew a thing or two about barrel harmonics. Cut and crown it at the first step back from the front sight

I've heard of guys re-profiling stepped Mauser barrels and getting away with it. I did that trick twice and didn't get away with it, years ago, by cutting a straight taper that just cleaned up the steps out to where the front step started. The barrels ended up being admittedly pretty slim. With both guns the first shot out of a cold tube was dead on, second shot a little higher, and so on until the fifth shot was about 8" high. Those barrels walked like crazy as they heated up. Sort of ok for a hunting rifle when the first shot counts (like it should). I figured I had built-in elevation adjustment if the beast took off running away from me, ha ha! Since then I have let stepped barrels well enough alone.

A gunsmith friend has milled the rear stepped area into an octagon on a couple of Swedes. Looked pretty sharp, but I have no idea how they worked out in the end.

I also recently heard of turning "wedding bands" on the ends of the steps, and thought that sounded like a classy approach. (May have heard it on this forum- I can't remember.)

I can't offer any expert advice but have fiddled with a couple of military Swedes. The first was untouched with all matching numbers that I foolishly let getaway. The next was this rather crudely done specimen I recently picked up and have been having a blast with. 100 yd groups run either side of 3/4" consistently with several bullets. This is one of those $400 rifles someone spent money on to turn it into a $200 rifle. I was happy to drop the $200...

Looks like $200 well spent. I like what they did with the bolt handle- a much classier approach than bending and forging into a Bubba-curve to clear the scope.

We picked up a sporterized Swede for my buddy's son's first rifle. It'll get the "full treatment", and the first thing to go will be the Bell & Carlson stock, even though it looks new. Thank goodness the lad has an eye for classic wood and blued steel! If anybody here wants it, let me know.