Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire results of gun care product evaluation

Not for all the products but I can say that based on this evaluation and the fact that all liquid and visible lube was (and should be removed) leaving no residue I don�t think cold or hot would impact the results. As I stated in the text, I removed the product to the point where common sense would say I removed too much and it was at that point that the lowest levels of friction were achieved. Certainly if excess product were left on the metal there is a potential of freezing up but that is not the fault of the product, that is the fault of the user not following the instructions.

try amsoil metal protector

I will keep that in mind should I elect to do another evaluation.

We all are by you doing this. Thank you for your work!

Ed

great study!

In your next test, please include Krylon flat black.

Why non firearms related?

I dont think so. I think you read the wrong evaluation. Save me the trouble and tell me how it works after you spray it into your guns inner workings. Make sure to do all your guns at once so its a fair evaluation. Include the inside of the bore as well. SMDH

Because it didn�t fair real well in regards to lubrication. It is however a knock out in regards to corrosion. One Shot excelled in both categories (lube and corrosion) As did Frog Lube. I will say the WD 40 specialist out performed lots of dedicated gun care products from both a lubricity and corrosion standpoint but there are clearly better gun care choices. That being said, last night I used the WD 40 specialist on a shotgun barrel I have for sale that I put into storage. There are no moving parts so lubrication was not a factor but I can rest assured I don�t have to worry about rust waiting to sell it.

Tag

Ive received a number of messages asking what the 3 top performing products look like when dispensed. I will answer that here.

Frog Lube (in this variety) is a Green and runny product. It needs to be spread around and wiped off gun parts.



WD 40 Specialist is a spray that is thick. It reminds me of a non-stick cooking spray. It needs to be spread around and wiped off (or it could be left on in excess depending on the application)



One shot comes out of the can clear and quickly disappears. By the time I sprayed it on this plate while holding it over the trash can, set it down, started the camera and took the pic it was already dried (Hence the term Dry lube)




Also, there seems to be a misunderstanding that the WD 40 specialist that did well in this evaluation is standard WD 40. It is not. It is a completely different product that your regular WD 40.

Likewise, The Hornady One shot gun cleaner and dry lube is not the Hornady One shot case lube that reloaders use. (at least from a marketing and packaging standpoint. I cant speak to the contents.) The two may be the same and I would have no way of knowing but they have diff names, uses and packaging.

Tag

Tag

Breakfree came highly recommended by many on multple forums. It performed very poorly in this evaluation. Its not a corrosion fighter and didnt fare well for lubricity.

DIYguy,...THANKS for this great post, and alla' the leg work and brainstorming that went into it !

Good to see some of the "Snake Oil' mythologies rattled a bit.

I do have a concern regarding the "Chemical Cleaning" of the rolled steel coupoms. I've never really seen acetone as that great a degreaser. This becomes really evident in the rust bluing realm, where one is intentionally inducing uniform oxidization. The roll lubricants that are used in making your coupon material are TENACIOUS in the extreme, and would be best defeated by vapor cleaning, or a hot alkali soap like Dycro-Clean. The goal, of course, being to ensure that all the di-ester wax or silicones are GONE, prior to applying the product sample.

Will be looking for more of your well presented work, Sir.

GTC

Thanks for the input crossfire. I saw first hand ho quickly acetone made short work of almost every product when it came time to remove them from the sled. (silicone grease to the most effort to remove) and then the dry steel to dry steel forces were restored to the device. I went through a lot of acetone and lots of rolls of paper towel but in every case, was able to clean the sled of any product residue and return the sled to dry to dry friction results.

As to removing the factory protection that keeps the steel from rusting on the shelf in the store, I removed that with 320 grit with a brushed finish in 2 directions and then cleaned the plates with acetone. No roll lube during the manufacture of the steel could stand up to the level of abrasion I used with the 320 grit and then acetone.

DIY,

In what situations would you personally see the best uses of Frog Lube vs. One Shot?

Why/when one over the other?

Outstanding work DIY.

Im not sure im really qualified to say (but I will) If I would break a gun down to its base parts for a complete cleaning and had easy access to every surface to apply the lube and then wipe it off, then Frog Lube and One shot would be great choices because the frog lube is viscous and needs to be wiped off after application.

If I was not breaking a gun down and was only opening the action and spraying down the action and internal parts that could be reached by the spray tube, I would go with the One Shot because there is essentially nothing to wipe off. It is a dry lube (once the propellant evaporates) I would not open the action of a gun, squirt in a bunch of frog lube, cycle the action a few times and call it good. I would however do that with one shot. The same is true with the bore.

I think both would work great for corrosion inhibition and lubrication but Frog Lube would take more time to apply and remove than One Shot. The Frog lube pours like cooking oil (rumor has it has its foundation in avocado oil) and needs to be wiped off where the One shot does not.

I appreciate the time, effort, and of course, sharing the results. Well done!

Outstanding article and process!