Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Ejector Mark on Brass

I have a question regarding ejector marks on brass. I bought a new Browning X Bolt .308 about a month ago. I have noticed during load work up that I get an ejector mark on some brass and this load is not even near max book load. I backed off the load and still noticed even near starting charge that I get the same ejector mark on the brass. I noticed shards of brass on the ejector. I cleaned my gun and the chamber really well and then bought some factory ammo. Even with factory ammo, I still get the ejector mark on about every third piece of brass. Is this a gun problem or ammo problem?

Is there a sharp or raised edge on the ejector plunger hole?

I was going to ask the same question. With some brass that's tight-fitting (lengthwise) in the chamber, you get smear marks on the head from the edges of the plunger hole or ejector slot as the bolt cams down. Not to be confused with bright, sharp-edged marks that are exactly the shape of the plunger hole or ejector slot. Sometimes the plunger hole or ejector slot has a burr on it that'll mark the heads, sounds like yours might be doing that with the brass shards.

Valid points. I had a switch-barrel made by the best gunsmith in the universe (KJ) and it came with a burr around the firing pin hole which left ejector marks on loads that were not high pressure. Once I removed the burr all was good, except for the accuracy, which was never delivered.

I've seen burrs around the ejector hole/slot not only on newer rifles but well-used commercial Mauser 98's. Any time marks show up on the case head I check for 'em.

Come to think of it, I may have been clued in to look for the burr after reading one of your books MD. I don't own a lot of push feeds but burrs seem more common on ejector slots than plunger holes.

OOPS, obviously meant ejector hole.

So, it begs the question.....is there an easy way to buff away a burr on the ejector hole? I'm guessing the plunger and spring would require removal first. Thus it would be a job for a gunsmith. Right?

It's pretty easy to remove the ejector and spring--though you have to be careful about not losing the spring. A small round file, or any sort of small conical tool covered by fine-grained sandpaper, will quickly eliminate the burr.

Once you get the plunger out a pencil eraser with some 320 or 400 grit emery paper glued on makes a good polishing tool.

lefty

Candidate for understatement of the year. They tend to go flying just when you think you have it all under control particularly if you're not used to the process. Don't ask how I know. Actually reassembly may be more perilous. When you have things lined up under tension and you're distracted for a split second, zing!