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Joined: Mar 2014
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Campfire Greenhorn
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I helped my son put on new brake pads on the front of his 07 F150. Here is what we did and what we saw, or had trouble with.
1. Removed wheels and unbolted the caliper housing. Slid of calipers with a little banging with a rubber mallet.
2. Secured caliper with zip tie to frame.
3. Removed old pads and installed new pads. Here is issue one - the little retaining clips when put on the pads kept pushing them outwards before we could get the caliper on, so we left them off.
4. Cranked down the caliper pistons using a c-clamp so they were flush with the housing.
5. Reinstalled caliper and then wheel. Repeated process on other side.
6. noticed the 2 pistons on one side had chips out of them
7. Once everything was buttoned up we put the cap back on the fluid reservoir.
8. Started the truck and backed out and no brakes! Pumped two or three times and could feel the back brakes grab, but not the front brakes.

So,do we need the little clips put back on the pads, OR
Bleed the brake lines in front, OR
replace the caliper with the chipped pistons?
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Did you crack open the bleeders when you cranked the pistons down with the c-clamp? You may have pushed debris back into the abs unit or between the piston and the bore causing it to stick.

Try bleeding it first. The chips are not good, but if they are not cracked should still work. The spring loaded clips are a PIA, but should go back on. And no, they won't cause the problem you describe.

Hope this helps.



Sean
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Sean, we didn't crack the bleeders, just unscrewed the reservoir lid to alleviate pressure. Can you tell me the purpose of the clips? Once the caliper is on the pads aren't going anywhere.

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I am assuming you are talking of the V shaped ones that go into the little holes on the top edge. They help keep the pads off the rotor to help them from rubbing and building heat.
Also assuming you pumped the pedal enough to refill the calipers and take up the gap from collapsing the piston? That can be a little scary in a shop if you just jump in it and throw it in gear!



Sean
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We pumped the pedal 7 or 8 times. Pedal is firm at first, but you can feel only the back brakes engaging. It sounds like we got air in the front lines somehow? So should the plan be to take everything apart, put the clips back on, put the caliper back on, then bleed the front lines until no air bubbles?

IC B2

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I would try bleeding it first to make sure you get brakes. The springs aren't a real big priority at this point.( not many vehicles use them, but the factory would not spend the money to install them if they could get away with it ).



Sean
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Originally Posted by calikooknic
I am assuming you are talking of the V shaped ones that go into the little holes on the top edge. They help keep the pads off the rotor to help them from rubbing and building heat.
Also assuming you pumped the pedal enough to refill the calipers and take up the gap from collapsing the piston? That can be a little scary in a shop if you just jump in it and throw it in gear!

Some vehicles take up the gap with a couple pumps, some take a lot more. Had a new mechanic pump the brakes a couple times said it was ready to bleed, but had not closed the gap yet.
Sean has covered your problems.

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Campfire Greenhorn
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Guys, just got back in. Pumped the brakes full to floor about 15 times and started to get a solid pedal. Backed out and felt like all 4 engaged. Tried that numerous times, a lot better. I think we will take the wheels off tomorrow, put the pad clips back on, reinstall the caliper, and then bleed all the brakes just to be sure.

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You cranked the pistons down too far and they are stuck. Need to install all parts and then bleed the system.

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Campfire Greenhorn
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Thanks mtnsnake, I'll update after rework this afternoon.

IC B3

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J
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J
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guys, be careful on initial "pump up"...
better to use lots of of short strokes with pedal, half or
2/3 of pedal stroke than pushing the floorboards out before you have firm pedal. Have seen a few master cylinders crapped out doing that

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Originally Posted by jeffdwhite
guys, be careful on initial "pump up"...
better to use lots of of short strokes with pedal, half or
2/3 of pedal stroke than pushing the floorboards out before you have firm pedal. Have seen a few master cylinders crapped out doing that


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Campfire Greenhorn
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Good advice, we did half to 3/4 pedal pumps. All is working well now.

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Originally Posted by calikooknic
Did you crack open the bleeders when you cranked the pistons down with the c-clamp? You may have pushed debris back into the abs unit or between the piston and the bore causing it to stick.

Good, remember this next time, good advice.


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