Home Forums Reloading Bullet Casting Who's casting what...

two T Rexes for the price of one!

I am very new to this. I have my burner built, my ingot molds built, 260# of pure lead cleaned, with @30 ingots fluxed and poured, but i have not yet found the mold for the .50cal conicals for my muzzleloader.
It would be nice to find one of those estate sales or attic finds.

kellory, if you want a rb mold pm me as i have several and would let you have one cheap.

I take it rb is round ball? With a 1:28 twist, manufacturer states round ball will not stabilize enough. Needs to be a conical. But thank you for the offer.

what rifle do you have? 1-28 twist, i want one!

CVA Steghorn .50cal.

Here are the specs for it.

Rifle Specifications:
- .50 Caliber
- 24" barrel length
- 42" overall length
- 1:28" rifling twist
- Blued finish
- Black synthetic stock
- 7.3 lbs. total weight
- Adjustable light gathering Solar Sights
- Removable stainless steel breech plug
- 209 Ignition
- Bolt action, pull back cocking mechanism
- Ventilated Recoil Pad
Black/Blue (.50 Cal)

thank you. i have always been a traditionalist with wood, flint or caplock or matchlock.
just might try out one of these though.

accuracy of those .460 513g powder coated in 45/70 siamese mauser
100 yards open sights
1768 fps.
44g RL7
rp cases
cci primers
bottom red dot point of aim
temp 25 f
recoil not bad in 9.5lb gun
plowed a crater in the frozen ground behind the target

Been casting 705 gr paper patch bullets for my 50-90 Sharps, I run a three seven alloy that Brinells at around 15, they still bump up nicely for 1.5" four shot groups at 100 yards with factory barrel sights on my C-Sharps rifle.

gunner what weight paper do you use. played briefly with PP in the 70's but drifted away. now i am retared, i can get back to it.
thanks Tom

Hey Tom,

No particular weights, I use the little sticky note pad paper from the office supply store.

OK
Sticky note paper.

So what message do you write on the paper before you put it around the slug and load it up.
Just Curious

"YOU'RE FU-KED"

Funny stuff

okay, i am a little jealous. A siamese mauser has always been at the top of the list in a way, just never managed to trip across one i could steal at a lowball price.

Well....the Greeks would print one word on thier lead slugs for thier slings. Translated to "TAKE THIS" (that would do...);)

i saw one 20 years ago at a pawn shop for 235.00 and didn't have it at the time. been looking every since.
saw one here in the classifieds and jumped on it. very nicely made and shoots like a laser. 405's and the 500's shoot to the same point of aim. bought a bolt handle block but have gotten used to the straight so am in no hurry to bend it.

one thing i wish someone would tell me how to do, but i want to make a duplex load bullet. Real hard base, soft lead front.

I use two pots, one for pure lead plus a tiny amount of tin, and another for WW alloy. A pistol case makes a great dipper for the pure lead, depends on the size of bullet but often a 9mm or .380 case works well. Wrap a piece of baling wire around the case rim for a handle, and adjust case length so you'll use a full case of lead every pour.

You want to get the mold hotter than you normally would; the idea is to keep the pure lead nose liquid or close to it while you pour the other alloy on top. Heat up the mold past the point where you get frosty bullets from WW alloy.

Pour the pure lead in from the .380 case dipper, then the WW alloy right away. The mold will take longer to cool enough to drop the bullets, so it's a slow process. If desired, water drop or heat treat the bullets, the nose will stay soft.

yondering's spot on. you can adjust the amount of soft nose by trimming the pure lead dipper case, thereby throwing uniform casts.
i have 5 cases set up the way Yondering describes of different capacities. makes it handy