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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
rosco,

Using a bullet in a fired case is "close enough" for determining proper seating depth that a bunch of winning benchrest shooters use it. In my own benchrest rifle it resulted in 5-shot groups averaging around .18" with a minimum of fuss. Which is part of why I use exactly the same "tool-free" method as Steelhead.


Yes,best done without a micrometer/calipers too I suppose when "measuring" that way? (serious question)

Last edited by rosco1; 12/20/14.
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It depends on the rifle. I seat a bullet in a case, with the case-mouth pinched just enough to hold a bullet firmly but not so firmly it can't be easily pushed back when chambering a round. Then I chamber the test round, and most of the time find rifling marks on the bullet.

In my benchrest rifle I then shot several loads with this "jammed" seating, and after finding the most accurate powder charge, tried a few more loads with the seating depth varied slightly, using a micrometer seating die. Turned out jammed was most accurate.

In a hunting rifle I keep seating the bullet slightly deeper until the rifling marks disappear, meaning the bullet is just off the lands. This usually requires at least .02" more seating depth, but varies with the bullet, chamber, etc.

That seating depth usually results in the accuracy level I'm seeking, but if it doesn't I try seating the bullet slightly deeper with the same powder charge. I start with the bullet close to the lands because seating it deeper results in less pressure, so there's no danger involved after finding the best powder charge with the bullet seated just off the lands. Once I find the seating depth that shoots best, a dummy round with a bullet seated to that depth goes into the die box.

Of course, sometimes that seating depth will have to be tweaked, whether due to another lot of bullets with a slightly different ogive, or throat wear, or whatever.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
oregontripper,

"2 in 1 out" happens because 3-shot groups aren't sufficient to really reflect the accuracy of a rifle and load. The spread of ALL shots will be larger than the average of 3-shot groups, so the "flier" is simply a shot that's part of the overall picture.

Four-shot groups are superior for testing accuracy, and more shots are even better.

JB,
Going for an explanation regarding previous discussion that others have stated when getting a "2 in 1 out" trifecta, that seating deeper will bring it in. I am asking why, what could cause that to happen? Conversely, equilateral pattern will be improved with longer COAL. Guess it's no matter or maybe you explained it. A "3 in 2 out" was mentioned also...

I swear I will shoot 4- or maybe even 5-shot groups to confirm... And someday I hope to not weigh every charge. Doubt I'll give up the extraneous tools though. Little steps... I even want a RAR! Range is pretty far for me now so there's little chance to run out and try this then that, its darn inconvenient actually. mad


Other John, AGW
I will pay closer attention. I have a couple rifles I've been working on and seems I have some equilateral triangles and some "2 in 1 out deals". Appreciate all the input.


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[quote=Mule Deer
Of course, sometimes that seating depth will have to be tweaked, whether due to another lot of bullets with a slightly different ogive, or throat wear, or whatever. [/quote]

Thanks.

The quote is the reason I suggested the comparator is a useful tool,but certainly not a requirement. Just a quick way to check a lot run change BTO using the dummy round for comparison,without starting over. Wont take throat wear into account tho, curious how often (shots) you check the wear on your more accurate rifles.

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Again, if people want to buy more stuff in hopes that they can craft perfect ammo and become better shots without shooting much, march on.

I'll stick with using a fired case, a bullet and measure.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I start with the bullet close to the lands because seating it deeper results in less pressure, so there's no danger involved after finding the best powder charge with the bullet seated just off the lands.


Hold the phone! My first thought after reading this was........Seating a bullet deeper with the same powder charge results in more pressure and higher velocity.

So are you saying there that a cartridge with the bullet seated to kiss the lands will make more pressure than one with the bullet off the lands? I understand that.

And .02" deeper isn't going to make much difference in pressure......Correct??




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Originally Posted by rosco1


Thanks.

The quote is the reason I suggested the comparator is a useful tool,but certainly not a requirement. Just a quick way to check a lot run change BTO without starting over. Wont take throat wear into account tho, curious how often (shots) you check the wear on your more accurate rifles.


I ain't him, but here's a hint on when it's time to recheck some stuff. When accuracy changes.

Pretty weird, huh...

Last edited by Steelhead; 12/20/14.

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Originally Posted by AussieGunWriter
Originally Posted by Canazes9
Originally Posted by AussieGunWriter
I have never ever done it. No need to do it.
The shape of the group tells you where your bullet needs to be seated.
Large equilateral triangle = seat out further.
2 in and 1 out of the group = seat deeper.

I move the seating die a quarter turn at a time.

John




So your advice to a reloader that doesn't know how to determine max COAL is "screw that, you don't need to determine max COAL, just start adjusting your seating depth based on shot patterning?"

Wow!

I hope he has enough sense to ignore this stupidity.

David


I learned this from Benchrest shooters decades ago, and as a writer who specialized in reviewing rifles and developing loads for the reviews, I proved hundreds of times it worked and this advice is being repeated and proved over and again by readers here and other sites where the advice has spilled over.

If you want to know a maximum dimension for OAL, consult you reloading manual.
If you want to know whether that dimension is relevant to your particular rifle, try it in your magazine box to see if it will really fit as a starting point but also confirm there is enough leade to chamber that dimension before running off to the range. Some rifles will house an OAL but not chamber it, Ruger, being an example.

So, how you you "know" I am wrong?

John


Your advice was reckless and you know it. The OP's question wasn't about load development, it was specific to determing COL. It was so important to you pop off about your technique for load development and tweak the thread by flying in the face of conventional wisdom that you touted skipping a basic safety rules of reloading.

If you had suggested that COAL was only useful for determining safe operating parameters, but you prefer to start you load development XXX off the lands and here's my technique...., I would have had no comment.

Now instead of admitting that you left out crtical information to an obviously less advanced reloader and trying to rectify the situation, you've doubled down on your original post and stated that there are generalities about rifles that can be applied. At least one member on this forum has RUGER American that is throated short enough to get in trouble with their reloads were they listen to your stupidity.

Save your though provoking tweaking for articles where you have the space and time to explain yourself. As a "Gunwriter" your opinions may be viewed by some as carrying more weight and they may be tempted to follow your advice without realizing the consequences. Its OK, I didn't expect you to recant or apologize when you were wrong - you've already proven your were incapable of that long before this thread started.

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I know you shot a crown royal box one time steelhead.somehow i doubt you could teach me much..

Point is, measuring a bullet base to tip with a caliper aint repeatable, may as well throw the caliper away and run the test everytime you change up.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
It depends on the rifle. I seat a bullet in a case, with the case-mouth pinched just enough to hold a bullet firmly but not so firmly it can't be easily pushed back when chambering a round. Then I chamber the test round, and most of the time find rifling marks on the bullet.

In my benchrest rifle I then shot several loads with this "jammed" seating, and after finding the most accurate powder charge, tried a few more loads with the seating depth varied slightly, using a micrometer seating die. Turned out jammed was most accurate.

In a hunting rifle I keep seating the bullet slightly deeper until the rifling marks disappear, meaning the bullet is just off the lands. This usually requires at least .02" more seating depth, but varies with the bullet, chamber, etc.

That seating depth usually results in the accuracy level I'm seeking, but if it doesn't I try seating the bullet slightly deeper with the same powder charge. I start with the bullet close to the lands because seating it deeper results in less pressure, so there's no danger involved after finding the best powder charge with the bullet seated just off the lands. Once I find the seating depth that shoots best, a dummy round with a bullet seated to that depth goes into the die box.

Of course, sometimes that seating depth will have to be tweaked, whether due to another lot of bullets with a slightly different ogive, or throat wear, or whatever.


This is plain good stuff. I've done it a few different ways and finally tried it like this. Works great!


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rosco,

I check throat wear periodically on SOME rifles with my bore-scope, mostly our of curiosity. I don't much bother if the rifle is still shooting well, having found that a lot of rifles will continue to shoot small groups even with some throat erosion.


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Originally Posted by rosco1
I know you shot a crown royal box one time steelhead.somehow i doubt you could teach me much..


I doubt I could. You seem to have it all figured out. Sorry about my stupid suggestion on not needing extra tools or that a fall off of accuracy was a reason to check stuff again.

I bow to your knowledge.


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I've probably been doing it wrong to measure the throat and have learned something here. I typically resize a case just maybe 1/8" or so into the neck and seat a bullet long....jam it into the lands....measure.....whack it with the bullet puller.....and repeat to make sure I'm accurate with my measure.

On those rifles where I'm kissing.....I may be kissing more than I need to. It's worked for me, but I'm thinking I need to adjust my method a little........


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Man, some crazy stuff on this thread. Don't recheck stuff if rifle is shooting good, recheck when rifle ain't.

I'd have never thought of that, but I ain't from Utah.


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Gotta run, time to take my car into the shop to see why it's running ok.


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Originally Posted by rosco1
I know you shot a crown royal box one time steelhead.somehow i doubt you could teach me much..

Point is, measuring a bullet base to tip with a caliper aint repeatable, may as well throw the caliper away and run the test everytime you change up.


Why would I measure a bullet, base to tip?


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Originally Posted by rosco1
I know you shot a crown royal box one time steelhead.somehow i doubt you could teach me much..

Point is, measuring a bullet base to tip with a caliper aint repeatable, may as well throw the caliper away and run the test everytime you change up.


I know Amaxes have changed some over the years......but I don't believe bullet makers typically retool frequently just to move ogives fore and aft. Or do they?


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Cartridge base to bullet tip is what I meant.

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Originally Posted by 257heaven
Originally Posted by rosco1
I know you shot a crown royal box one time steelhead.somehow i doubt you could teach me much..

Point is, measuring a bullet base to tip with a caliper aint repeatable, may as well throw the caliper away and run the test everytime you change up.


I know Amaxes have changed some over the years......but I don't believe bullet makers typically retool frequently just to move ogives back and forth. Or do they?



The ogive moves forward as the dies wear during produce, when the old worn dies are replaced the or give will move back, as the dies wear again during production the ogive move forward until the dies are replaced. This has always been the case.



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Originally Posted by 257heaven
Originally Posted by rosco1
I know you shot a crown royal box one time steelhead.somehow i doubt you could teach me much..

Point is, measuring a bullet base to tip with a caliper aint repeatable, may as well throw the caliper away and run the test everytime you change up.


I know Amaxes have changed some over the years......but I don't believe bullet makers typically retool frequently just to move ogives back and forth. Or do they?


I've had 155 scenars vary enough to cause problems. Trying to buy them in thousands helps but not always possible.

I admit it dont usually matter much, especially in hunting rifles when you keep the bullet away from the lands (I do anyway).

Was just sayin a comparator along with your micrometer is useful,and cost 20 bucks, didnt mean to make a thing out of it.

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