Just picked up one of the $377 Remington 700 ADLs with cheap scope. Shooting known good loads it is stringing shots vertically (two shots together one out). While basic stuff, are there any known tricks to bedding the ADL plastic stock?
I got a Walmart special one time to give to the neighbor's kid. It was a .270 in a black plastic stock with a no-name 3X9. I bought two boxes of 150 Corelok factory loads, took it home and made sure the scope mount and ring screws were tight (they weren't.) I then took it to the range and it too strung shots. I shot two, three-shot groups. Each group had two shots touching and one a little higher, opening them up to about 3/4" three-shot groups. Good enough for a kid.
I got a Cabelas special last week. My plan is to pitch the scope, have the barrel shortened (possibly lap lugs, square action face and then have the chamber cleaned up to AI depending on cost). Then it will be bedded into a Banser stock. Total cost will probably end up in the $600-$700 range but it will then be to my specs and hopefully the factory barrel will shoot.
If it is stringing and you are keeping the Tupperware stock, remove the pressure point at the foreend tip and make sure the barrel is free floated. This will probably help a bunch.
Oh as cra1948 mentioned, the scope mounting on this rifle was loose too.
Probably free floating the barrel more than you think is necessary will help more than it will hurt. The plastic Remington stocks that I have had were not stiff at all and when shot, the barrel would tap the stock (or the stock would tap the barrel) contributing to some pretty big, unpredictable groups.
On a wood or fiberglass stock, I used to check for a free floating barrel by sliding a dollar bill between the barrel and stock. If it didn't touch it was good. You need much more room with a plastic stock. I like to think of it as space, between the barrel and stock, that you can check with a flashlight or lantern.
The free-floating test I use with Tupperware stocks is to grab the tip of the forend AND the barrel with my right (strong) hand and squeeze. If the forend can touch the barrel, the channel needs to be opened up more. Usually a couple minutes with a round rasp will do the job sufficiently.
On the other hand, I've shot more than one Tupperware-stocked 700 that was REALLY accurate with the factory bedding, including the .17 Fireball I've been shooting for several years now, and a 7mm Remington Magnum that shot better than many custom rifles. So I tend to shoot 'em first before getting out the rasp.
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
Yep, factory setup 243 I got from a gal for 200 wanting to dump it..
Came with factory federal ammo... shot under an inch and have not touched it yet. Cheap yote gun next to the back door. Haven't run out of that ammo yet either...
We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
If it is stringing and you are keeping the Tupperware stock, remove the pressure point at the foreend tip and make sure the barrel is free floated. This will probably help a bunch.
Yep, I floated and bedded my trusty ol' tupperware ADL several years ago and it shoots great.
Every once in awhile I think about replacing the stock but there simply isn't the need.
John be carefull, you may give some of the members here a stroke by suggesting a rifle cant shoot well without a McMillan or even without bedding at all !!
Y'all quit pulling peoples legs. There was a thread just the other day that said none of the cheap Wally World 700's could shoot cause they're all "seconds".
I kinda got the impression that some of them come "pre modified" with broken bolts and triggers.
Dave.
Those who are always shooting off at the mouth usually aren't shooting straight.
Build a man a fire and he’ll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life.
I love it when I start a thread that has some positive stuff in it. Checked screws and the scope base screws needed loc-tite and tightening. Action screws were also less than 40 in/lbs. if the current KY monsoon ever ends I will do a re test and see what happens.
By the way, this particular ADL Tupperware appears to be tight bedded like a NULA. If step one doesn't work, that will be step two.
Last edited by KyWindageII; 12/23/14. Reason: Correction
I keep seeing these damn posts. For several months have been trying to find one, and my local wallyworld only carries the 770 or whatever they call the piece-of-junk-of -the-month.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
I bought a .243 youth model on black Friday for $377 - 20% and a $35 rebate ($266.60+tax). First 3 shots with Rem CoreLokts went into the same hole. I have not been able to repeat that, but now have it shooting (reloads 3 shot) 3/4" groups at 100 yards regularly. I took the stock off, adjusted the trigger, put a piece of heavy paper under the front lug and screwed it back together. That temporarily floated the barrel. Seemed to take the groups from 1" or a tad over to 3/4". I have since put on a new VX-1 3-9 (traded the stock scope for a bunch of brass) and Burris rings and just picked up a full sized camo Rem adl stock. It seems to like longer bullets better than the 58gr Vmax's that I had on hand. Will soon be trying some 100gr Hornady BTSP's and 87gr VMax's w/IMR 4064 and H4350 to see what happens. I think with a bit more time I can shrink those 3/4" groups a bit and have a great little rifle. The 20" barrel is excellent to carry around.
One other thing, it tend to shoot better when supported consistently under the front action screw - might help account for the 'not so stiff' stock.
Last edited by centershot; 12/23/14.
A true sportsman counts his achievements in proportion to the effort involved and fairness of the sport. - S. Pope
What's everyone torquing the stock screws at? I picked up a 243 on the Black Friday weekend sale and I've yet to shoot it. I mounted a 2.5-10x42 Monarch on it. I sent in an old pre-Monarch 3-9x40 for warranty work and Nikon upgraded me for free. All I have so far is some 100gr factory Corelokts to try but I've usually had good luck out of them in other calibers.
